Brittany 9

Brittany 9

Near the Chapel of Ste. Trinité a path leads to the hermitage of S.

Gildas. It is advisable to obtain a child as guide. The Saint with

his disciple Budoc, or Bieuzy, was wont to retire to a cave under an

overhanging rock beside the Blavet during Lent, and at certain times

when he desired to be private. He built up the face of the cave and

divided it into two parts, one for himself and one for Bieuzy. A

chapel was added in the Middle Ages, and this was restored in 1837.

It consists of two parts, and is under the rock in a most picturesque

situation. The bell is attached to the rock. The structure is of the

15th cent., but the E. window and an arch are 1st pointed (perhaps the

window is due to the restorer) and there are rude windows round-headed,

that may possibly be of a still earlier date. An arch divides the

chapel into two with an altar in each. In the outer chapel, on a

pedestal, is the bell-stone of Gildas, a slab of diorite, on which

stands a couple of pebbles, and when the stone is struck with these

it rings. At Mass on the day of the Pardon, Whitsun-Monday, and on

S. Gildas's day, Jan. 29, the bell-stone is used for ringing at the

Sanctus, Elevation and Communion. On the left side of the principal

altar is a block of rock and masonry used for the pain bénit, which

is distributed among the pilgrims. There was another bell-stone, that

of S. Bieuzy himself, but this was carried away, and broken in the

transaction, by a seigneur of Kervèno in 1660, but the rector reclaimed

it and in 1702 succeeded in recovering it, and it is now placed in the

churchyard of S. Bieuzy near the cross. The church of Bieuzy has a

modern spire and nave. The choir and transepts are renaissance of 1560.

There are three superb stained glass windows of this date in the apse

representing the scenes of the Passion; one subject, the Risen Lord,

appearing as a gardener to the Magdalen, deserves notice. The S. door

of the church is flamboyant with a flamboyant window above. A S. door,

blocked in the choir, has some lovely flamboyant foliage on it. There

is a picturesque renaissance house opposite the church. It is worth the

visitor noticing the type of well in all this district. The structure

of granite for the support of the drum for the chain is very striking,

and there is an excellent example in a yard near the E. end of the

church at Bieuzy. A few yards from the village is the Holy Well with a

niche for the Saint. The water is sought for those who are off their

heads.

 

Returning to the station, _S. Nicolas des Eaux_ is next visited. The

chapel is in a very dilapidated condition. It is a flamboyant cruciform

structure (1524) with a fine double doorway and with foliage about it,

and with late flamboyant tracery in some of the windows, but from most

it has been hacked away.

 

_S. Nicodème_ is perhaps the most beautiful example of flamboyant in

Morbihan. It was completed in 1539, and a bell bears the date 1507

which is about the date of the spire and tower. The west entrance under

the tower is peculiarly bold and beautiful, with its lace work fringed

arch. A flight of steps leads down to the chapel, and on the left is

a singular Holy Well, composed of three gabled structures united at

the back. The date on this well is 1608, but it is impossible to hold

this to be the true indication of its erection, and must commemorate

a reparation, for the character of the sculpture and the general

design are of a century earlier, and in its quaintness and originality

indicate the same master hand that had planned and drawn the marvellous

tower and spire. The three fountains are to (1) S. Gamaliel with an ox

at his side and a biniou player; (2) S. Nicodemus with a human-headed

ox by him; and (3) S. Abibo with a horseman at his side. Hard by is an

immeasurably inferior Holy Well to S. Cornelius, constructed in 1790.

 

The chapel itself is not equal in beauty to tower and spire. It

contains a minstrel gallery of stone in the N. transept. The

altarpieces are bad rococo. Two little oxen are stuck up against the

N. wall of the chancel to commemorate the success of an invocation to

S. Cornély. There is a very curious retable at the side representing

the Resurrection. S. Nicodemus is represented carrying a napkin, three

nails and with a heraldic wreath about his head. Most of the windows

have had their tracery removed. The Pardon here is very famous and

largely attended. The first Saturday in August is held as a great fair

here, and at it girls sell their hair. Young women wearing black caps

and not coiffes are such as have parted with their natural ornament. On

the Sunday following is the Pardon. An angel descends from the gallery

of the spire and sets fire to a great pile of brushwood and firework

hoops.

 

_Bubry._ The church is modern and bad, near it are two lechs, one with

four equal faces, and the other has a cross pattée on two faces. The

ossuary is full of skulls arranged in order. In the "place" is a great

granite basin fed with water from the fountain of S. Helen. The Chapel

of S. Yves is five kilometres to the south of this village, and is in

a jumble of flamboyant and renaissance. The date 1598. This chapel

drew so many pilgrims, and such abundant donations, that the near-by

Seigneur de Kernivinen became jealous, and going to the chapel one

day of the Pardon, fell on the rector and boxed his ears, because he

refused to give up to him a share of the spoil. This was in 1630. He

was put into the ecclesiastical court and condemned to restore 10,000

livres which he had carried off from the chapel, and to pay a fine of

2000 which was to be given to the hospital. P. of Ste. Helene, 4th S.

in July. This is spoken of as well attended.

 

_Melrand._ The Chapel of Locmaria is fine. It has a bold, square tower

surmounted by a spire: it is all of flamboyant work with a few details

showing that the renaissance was at hand. The E. window, partly hidden

by a retable of 1680, contains in twelve tableaux scenes from the Life

and Passion of our Lord. In the N. transept window is a fine Jesse

tree, in one of the S. transept the angelic salutation. Near the chapel

is a Holy Well of 1574. P. at Guellouët in Melrand, 1st Sunday in July.

 

BECHEREL (I.V.) chl. arr. Montfort. On high ground. In the church a

Romanesque font. Old gateway, 16th cent. House of the Little Sisters

of the Poor is here. The headquarters or Mother-House. _Les Iffs_

has a church of the 15th cent. containing nine windows of superb

stained glass, the finest in the Department. The tower is of the 16th

cent. On a height is the Château de Montmuran of various dates. In

the chapel, Du Guesclin was dubbed knight in 1354. He married Jeanne

de Laval, granddaughter of the Countess of Montmuran, for whom he

defended the castle against the English. The E. window of the chapel

is good early flamboyant and contains fine old glass. The château is

very picturesque. The Château de Caradeuc, partly ancient, in a park

with fine trees, and well kept, has within, among other paintings, two

Murillos.

 

BEGARD (C.N.) chl. arr. Guingamp. A Cistercian abbey was founded

here in 1130 by Stephen III., Count of Penthièvre. It was rebuilt in

the 17th century, except the Romanesque church. It is now a lunatic

asylum. According to local tradition, Begard was first settled by such

ragged hermits that the place was called after them, a settlement of

"Beggars." A menhir is at Kergouézennic 18 ft. high.

 

_Kermoroch._ The chapel of Langoerat, 1373, has in it stained glass and

paintings. There are ruined castles at Perrier and Leshorz.

 

_Pedernec._ A ruined castle at Runangoff. The Chapel of N.D. de Lorette

dates from 1514. A 16th cent. manor house at Kermathaman. A menhir 25

ft. 6 in. high.

 

BELLE ILE (C.N.) chl. arr. Guingamp. Prettily situated in the valley of

the Guindy. The church is modern, the old church is turned into halle.

The Chapel of Locmaria is made into the cemetery chapel. It stands on

a rocky height above the river and the road to Trégrom. It is late

flamboyant, the pillars are surrounded by stone seats. The W. door has

boldly carved foliage in coarse granite. The roodscreen, with figures

and foliage in the panels of the gallery, has been removed to the W.

end.

 

_Plounevez-Moedec_ on very high ground, traversed by the main road from

Paris to Brest, straight as a bowstring. The church has a 2nd pointed

arcade and E. windows and N. aisle. The rest flamboyant. The gallery

at the W. end is one removed from the chapel of Keramanach, with the

vaulting wantonly taken away. The tower, renaissance, has been restored

recently. The chapel of _Keramanach_ (S. Fiacre) may be visited equally

well from Belle Ile or from Plouaret. It is late 2nd pointed with

square end, E. window and S.E. window of same period, as also N. aisle.

There are remains of good stained glass in the windows. The porch has

rich 16th cent. groining. The W. bell turret has a gallery. The chapel

contains a fine alabaster reredos of the 15th cent., each panel has

been let into a wooden frame. On the road from Plounevez to Trégrom is

a menhir 30 ft. high.

 

_Locquenvel._ Church of 15th and 16th cents. with stained glass

representing the legend of S. Envel.

 

BELZ (M.) chl. arr. Lorient. In very desolate country. The road

from Auray runs through plantations of Austrian pine grown for the

Welsh collieries, or over furzy moors. Belz itself is an utterly

uninteresting place, with an ugly church, and a ruinous but large

chapel near it. Belz lies, however, near the curious inland sea of

Etel, and was formerly head of a pou or pagus. A mile and a half

beyond Belz is the hamlet of S. Cadou, occupied entirely by fishermen

and their families. The women wear scarlet petticoats which they take

care to display. A stone causeway 140 ft. leads to the _Isle of S.

Cadou_ and his chapel. S. Cadoc, son of Gwynllyw, King of Gwent or

Monmouthshire, arrived here about 525 and founded a monastery and

school on the island. To facilitate the passage and repassage of his

pupils he constructed the causeway, having learned the art of dyking at

Llancarvan. It was here, pacing it with Gildas, that they discussed the

salvability of Virgil. Cadoc, who loved that author, could not believe

that he was lost, but Gildas held the harsher view. As they talked,

Cadoc turned over his Virgil to point out some remarkable passages,

probably the prophecy of the Incarnation, to his friend, when the wind

swept the volume out of his hand into the sea. He slipped in rushing

to recover it, and some pieces of iron in the causeway are supposed to

indicate where his foot slid. Only with difficulty did Cadoc recover

the precious book. The chapel has an early Romanesque apse, with rudely

carved capitals to the pillars supporting the chancel arch. The chapel

was much spoiled at its alteration in 1842. In the S. transept is the

stone bed of S. Cadoc with a receptacle under it, in which strange

sounds are thought to be heard. These are due to the echo of the waves

and winds. The gallery of the flamboyant screen has been removed to the

W. end. In the nave are four paintings. (1) S. Cadoc arriving at the

isle; (2) S. Cadoc settling on it; (3) Pirates land and he protests

that he has nothing; (4) Cadoc departing, with the inscription:--

 

Oratoire mon œuvre adieu, dit-il pleurant,

Belz t'oublierai je? Non. Il cingla de céans.

 

P. S. after 21st Sept. Numerous megalithic remains are to be found

about Belz. A menhir at Kervoen, another at Mélionec; remains of an

allée couverte 30 ft. long at Kernours; a dolmen in good condition

at Kerlutu; others at Kerhuen, Kervoen and Kerlourd. At Crubelz in a

tumulus is a chamber of masonry nearly 11 ft. high. Roman bricks were

found in it, and it would seem to have been constructed in Gallo-Roman

times, but in accordance with earlier traditions and usages.

 

[Illustration: LINES OF ERDEVEN]

 

_Locoal_, on an arm of the sea of Etel, united to the mainland by

a causeway like that at S. Cadou. Locoal was a locus penitentiæ of

S. Gudeval or Gurval, Bishop of Aleth. He scooped out a cave and

dwelt therein. Disciples came to him to the number of 188. To protect

themselves against the high tides they erected the dykes that still

remain. At length, desiring greater retirement in his extreme old

age, Gudeval retired with seven disciples into the forest of Camors,

where he died in 640. Some lechs remain; one near the cemetery is 4

ft. high, with a cross cut on it in relief, surmounted by a circle and

cross. Another on the way from Locoal to Mendon, 7 ft. 6 in. high,

with two crosses cut on it, bears on it the words CRUX PROSTLON; it is

the tombstone of the wife of Count Pasquitien, the murderer of King

Solomon. She died in 875. The parish church was burnt by the Spaniards in 1592, and again accidentally in 1765.