Brittany 31

Brittany 31

Er-lanic_ is situated half a kilometre to the south-east of Gavrinis,

and here are the two cromlechs already mentioned, one dipping into the

sea, the other already in deep water. They are juxtaposed, forming an

8, and lie on the S. E. of the island. The first circle consists of 180

stones, but several are fallen, and it can only be seen complete when

the tide is out. One stone is 16 ft. high. The second circle can only

be seen at low tides.

 

_Ile longue_ contains a cairn that also covers a gallery. It has not

been fully examined.

 

_Saint Avée._ The church is poor and uninteresting, but in the

churchyard is a curious cross, with platform from which, according to

local tradition, capital sentences were pronounced. On one side is the

crucifix, on the other the B.V.M. On the sides S. John the Baptist and

S. Peter. In the church are two windows middle pointed. There is a lech

in the churchyard at the east end of the church. But what is of far

higher value than the parish church is the remarkable chapel in the

Bourg-bas, which is flamboyant (1475-94), except the N. transept that

is 2nd pointed. Between the nave and the choir and transepts is a tall

crucifix enriched with niches, with railing and gates at the side, a

totally unusual description of roodscreen. The crucifix is certainly

of 1500. The transepts contain four altars with their original

retables. The first on the N. side has very rude carving representing

the Crucifixion, Christ in Glory, and the B. Virgin crowned (?) with

a dove by her. The second and third are plain with graceful border

of foliage. The fourth is a splendid bit of alabaster work, probably

Flemish, and represents a virgin saint, the Crucifixion, a saint,

Christ giving benediction, S. Avée (?), a Queen-saint, S. Mary Magdalen

and a Mermaid. There are some early statues in the chapel, an admirable

S. Lucy of the 15th cent., the drapery splendidly executed. Such early

statues are very rare. Another is of S. Columbanus. Some fragments

of old glass are in the windows. In the churchyard is a very curious

carved Calvary of unique character, also a Holy Well. The E. window of

the chancel is flamboyant of a later character than the rest. In the

N. transept is one flamboyant, the tracery forming a fleur-de-lys. The

others are middle pointed. The chapel has a slate spirelet. S. of the

chapel by the roadside is a lech with a crucifix planted on top of it.

The camp of La Villeneuve is of undetermined date. To reach it the road

to Josselin must be taken and diverged from to the left to Mangolorian.

Near this hamlet is the camp on a steep hill, almost impracticable

on all sides but the west, where it is defended by two ranges of

ditches and by two walls. The camp is called either Villeneuve or

Kastel-Kerneué.

 

The _Vallon de Poignan_ is within an easy stroll from Vannes. The road

to Pontivy is followed as far as the Chapel of S. Guen, and then a lane

to the right leads to some curious rocks, one of which is fancifully

called a Druid altar. The road to Josselin is then entered, and a lane

to the right conducts to the picturesque, rocky valley of Poignan, at

the end of an avenue of oaks.

 

_Plescop._ Of little interest; it has a couple of lechs in the

churchyard, and a flamboyant chapel, without much character, to S.

Amon, possibly the father of S. Samson, who came from the neighbourhood

of Vannes, but usually supposed to have been a returned crusader who

asked at Plescop for milk, and as he was refused, cursed the place that

its cows should never yield good milk and butter. As he was found dead

in a furze-brake next morning he has received cult as a saint. Part of

his skull is in a carved oak bust in the chapel, but is not exposed to

veneration, as authenticating documents are non-extant. P. 4th Sunday

in October.

 

_Surzur._ Three menhirs 15 ft. high are near the hamlet of Begard, and

two ruined allées couvertes are in the coppice of Talhoet. A dolmen

and two fallen menhirs near it at the hamlet of Vinihy. The parish

church of S. Symphorian is a Romanesque building but altered later. The

arcades, the doors and windows are semi-circular. There is a central

tower at the crossing of the transepts surmounted by a slate spire. The

Chapel of N.D. de Recouvrance is of the 16th cent.

 

_S. Nolff._ The church is partly of the 16th cent. It has been restored

not wisely but too well. The Chapel of S. Anne, 1493, has a fine east

window with stained glass representing Our Lord and seven saints. The

other windows are filled with glaring modern glass.

 

_Sulniac._ The parish church dates from several periods. Four pillars

and arches are Romanesque, as well as a window near the porch; the

other windows and arcades are later. The nave was rebuilt in fancy

Romanesque in 1893.

 

* VITRÉ (I.V.) chl. d'arr. A very picturesque town, rivalling

Fougères in objects of interest. It stands on a hill above the Vilaine,

and notwithstanding the destruction of a portion of its ramparts, is

one of the French towns that has best retained the features of the

Middle Ages. But on the side of the railway station all is modern and

uninteresting. To see the old Vitré it is necessary to enter and pursue

the ancient and narrow streets, which form an inextricable tangle. The

houses are mostly slated in front. On the N. side the town assumes a

feudal character. Here the walls stand on the black schist rock, and

are only pierced by a single postern that gives access to a steep

descent by steps into the valley. The castle, on a triangular plan,

was founded at the close of the 11th cent. and was reconstructed in

the 14th and 15th. The entrance is flanked by two towers. The castle

is used partly as a prison and partly as a museum. The Church of

Notre Dame is of the 15th and 16th cents., and has a tower crowned

with a spire of the 18th cent. Outside the church is a stone pulpit.

There is some old glass of the renaissance period: the entry into

Jerusalem, the Adoration of the Shepherds, a representation of the

burning of the tower of the church in 1704. The church also contains a

remarkable triptych of the 16th cent., representing in 32 little groups

on enamelled copper scenes from the New Testament. On the back is an

inscription in rhyme. The church of S. Martin is modern; the old church

is in the cemetery and dates in part from the 16th century.

 

_Château des Roches_ was formerly the residence of Mme. de Sévigné,

who lived in it repeatedly between 1654 and 1690. It consists of two

blocks of buildings of the 16th cent., and is situated in a pretty

park. Visitors are only admitted to the grounds, to the chapel, and to

the room of Mme. de Sévigné, which contains copies of family portraits

in the private apartments and some objects believed to have belonged

to the marquise; among others a book of accounts for the garden signed

by her. The bed and chairs are of wood painted white and covered with

yellow silk damask.

 

_Champeaux._ The church is of the 14th and 19th cents., and has fine

glass of the renaissance (1530-5) and tombs of the same period. About a

mile and a half S.W. a menhir 12 ft. high called La Haute Pierre.

 

PONT L'ABBÉ (F.) chl. arr. Quimper. Here one is in the midst of the

Bigauden country. Observe the curious and ugly way of wearing the

hair and the coiffes. There are many folds of skirts fastened round

the waists. The women are remarkably plain, and have staring eyes and

expose their teeth. The church has fine 2nd pointed east and west

windows. The tower was pulled partly down by Louis XIV. to punish the

people for the Revolt of the Papier timbré. Some old houses. Fine

cloister. The château of the 13th cent. has been transformed into a

mairie. It retains a large tower, and buildings of the 17th cent.

Outside the town to the S.W. is the château of _Kernuz_, transformed by

the proprietor into a museum of flints, bronze and jade weapons, and

gold ornaments found in the cairns and dolmens of the neighbourhood.

The whole peninsula, ending in the Pointe de Penmarch (the Horse's

Head), abounds in prehistoric monuments. Two dolmens are near the road,

in the parish of Plomeur, which has an ugly modern church.

 

_Penmarch_ was once a thriving seaport, rivalling Nantes, but for

various causes declined, and is now reduced to a couple of hamlets.

The church (S. Non = Ninidh, an Irish Bishop) is an interesting late

flamboyant structure, the tracery in the windows affecting the forms

of fleurs-de-lys. Beneath the E. window is a treasury surmounted by a

gallery. At the junction of the chancel with the nave is a spirelet

supported by turrets, connected with it by flying buttresses. At the

S.W. a pretty little triumphal arch and gable. The church was begun in

1308. Inside the church a fireplace for heating the baptismal water.

A mile and a half off is S. Guénolé, the tower of the church alone

remaining, 1488. A little apse has been built out at the east end. It

contains some curious statues. Here is a bathing establishment, with

comfortable quarters. _Kerity_ has some old maisons fortes, and a

ruined church.

 

_Tronoen._ A chapel of the same date as that at Penmarch, with a fine

Calvary. Two stages of sculptured groups.

 

_Lambour._ A flamboyant church, with colonade of the 13th cent.

 

_Loctudy._ A Romanesque church, with an Italian 18th cent. façade. It

much resembles S. Gildas de Rhuys. It has been restored. _Ile Tudy_ may

be visited, but does not contain much of interest.

 

 

 

 

INDEX OF PLACES

 

 

A.

 

Ste. Anne d'Auray, 41

 

Argentré, 36

 

Arzano, 37

 

Arzon, 215

 

Audierne, 37

 

Auray, 40

 

 

B.

 

Baie des Trépassés, 39

 

Bain, 44

 

Batz, 81

 

Baud,44

 

Beauport, 148