Brittany 6

Brittany 6

Sometimes, and in some places, there is an evening procession carrying

lighted candles, in some a bonfire figures lighted by a figure of an

angel which descends from the chapel or church spire. At some there

are wrestling and games in the afternoon, at others there is dancing,

but usually all is quiet and the peasants disperse after the afternoon

procession.

 

By the sea, the arrival of the boats with maidens in white and banners

is a pretty sight; at one Pardon, the sailors proceed, barefooted in

their shirts, in performance of a vow, when delivered in a storm.

 

A visitor who desires to be present at one of the most popular Pardons

should secure rooms a month beforehand, and even then he may be

dispossessed if the Government or military authorities have seized

on the occasion of a Pardon to billet a regiment on the place, an

experience the writer has twice had to undergo.

 

Another quarter century will probably see the last of the Pardons.

It will not be due to the decay of the religious feeling among the

people--that need not be feared--but to Governmental opposition, and

the indecent behaviour of the tripper, which will perhaps induce the

clergy to discourage them. (Matt. vii. 6.) A word to the invariably

courteous and kindly curé will often secure for the visitor a place

of vantage in the gallery, and it is only due to him to ask if he

objects to a snap-shot with the kodak at the procession. To photograph

a man when engaged in his devotions, or a woman making her painful

pilgrimage barefooted is not calculated to impress the peasant with

the good-feeling of the English visitor. The Breton is tender-hearted

and sensitive, and should ever be respected. At a great Basse-Bretagne

Pardon and fair, one may wander till late among the thousands gathered

there, enjoying themselves on merry-go-rounds and at shooting stalls,

and see no horseplay, no rudeness, no drunkenness.

 

At a Pardon one sees and marvels at the wondrous faces of this

remarkable people:--the pure, sweet and modest countenances of the

girls, and those not less striking of the old folk. "It is," says

Durtal (_En Route_), "the soul which is everything in these people, and

their physiognomy is modelled by it. There are holy brightnesses in

their eyes, on their lips, those doors to the borders of which the soul

alone can come, from which it looks forth and all but shows itself."

 

Goodness, kindness, as well as a cloistral spirituality stream from

their faces. One incident may be noticed to show of what stuff their

charity consists. After the wreck of the _Drummond Castle_ when the

bodies were washed up on the Ile-Molène, the women readily gave up

their holiday costumes--costumes which it takes a girl twenty years of

economies to acquire--and in these they clothed and buried the dead

women washed ashore.

 

The Pardons in the Bigauden district are the most showy. The Bigaudens

delight in bright colours, but they are not a religious or a moral

people, and they do not exhibit the fervent and deep-seated piety of

the genuine Bretons. The Bigaudens occupy the promontory of Sizun and

Pont l'Abbé. This people, peculiar in appearance and distinct in

character from the Bretons, are supposed to belong to the primitive

population of Ivernians before the coming of the British colonists.

They are looked on with mistrust, if not aversion by the Bretons, whom

they can generally over-reach in a bargain.

 

 

 

 

VI. ICONOGRAPHY

 

 

It may interest some travellers to be able to identify some of the

more common Saints of Brittany whose statues are to be found in the

churches, chapels, and over the Holy Wells. A few of the Roman Saints

are added who are thrusting the native ones from their niches.

 

Ste. Anne, with the B.V.M. at her side, sometimes with her on one arm

and Christ on the other.

 

S. Armel, in a brown habit, with a cap on his head, an amice over the

right shoulder, with a dragon whom he holds by a stole.

 

Ste. Aude or Haude, as a damsel carrying her head.

 

S. Bieuzy, as a monk with his head cleft.

 

S. Brioc, as a bishop with a wolf licking his feet.

 

S. Budoc, as a bishop with a barrel at his side.

 

S. Cadoc, as an abbot holding a bell.

 

S. Corentin, as a bishop carrying a fish.

 

S. David, as an archbishop with archiepiscopal crozier.

 

S. Edern, as a monk riding on a stag.

 

S. Efflam, in ducal habit, with sceptre, treading on a dragon.

 

S. Fiacre, in brown habit, holding a spade.

 

S. Fingar, Eguinger, or Guingar, as a prince, with sword and palm

branch.

 

S. Gildas, in monastic habit, with a snarling dog at his feet.

 

S. Gwen Teirbron, seated, with crown, and three breasts, her children

on her knees or at her feet.

 

S. Gwénole (Winwaloe), as an abbot, no special symbol.

 

S. Haude, a damsel carrying her head.

 

S. Herbot, as an anchorite with an ox at his feet.

 

S. Hervé, as a blind monk, a boy or a wolf at his side.

 

S. Meliau, as a king or duke, bearing sword and palm branch, or sceptre.

 

S. Melor, a boy with one hand and one foot cut off.

 

Ste. Ninnoc, in robes as a nun, a stag at her feet.

 

Ste. Noyala, as a princess holding her head in her hands.

 

S. Paul of Léon, in episcopal habits, treading on a dragon, and with a

bell in his hands.

 

S. Samson, as archbishop.

 

S. Solomon, in royal robes, and with a dagger in his breast.

 

S. Thégonnec, as a bishop with a cart drawn by wolves.

 

S. Theilo, as an abbot or bishop riding on a stag.

 

S. Tujean, as a bishop with a mad dog at his side.

 

S. Vincent Ferrier, in monastic habit, holding a trumpet, and with

wings.

 

S. Yves, in a white robe with long sleeves and doctor's bonnet, giving

judgment sometimes between a rich suitor and a poor man.

 

S. Anthony of Padua, as a Franciscan, with the Child Jesus on one arm.

 

S. Barbara, with a tower at her side.

 

S. Cornelius, as Pope, with an ox at his feet.

 

S. Eligius, as bishop, with a horse at his side.

 

S. Isidore, dressed as a Breton peasant in bragoubraz (baggy breeches),

holding a sickle.

 

S. Joseph, aged and holding a lily, sometimes with the Child Jesus on

his arm.

 

S. Roch, as a pilgrim showing a wound in one leg.

 

 

 

 

VII. GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS

 

 

In the humblest village one may reckon on obtaining good meals, but not

always on having dry sheets. It is not customary to air the latter,

and except in hot dry weather, it is well to be on one's guard in this

matter. Water should never be drunk. Too frequently it is drawn from

the well in the yard, and is contaminated. Coffee in out of the way

parts, even at such headquarters as Carhaix, is not coffee at all,

but roast lupin berries.[1] The ordinary charge for déjeuner at 11.30

is 2.50, with cider and coffee, and 3 francs for dinner at 7 p.m. But

in second class inns is 50 centimes less. A bed is usually 1.50 or 2

francs. Sanitary arrangements are rudimentary. Usually one can rely

on freedom from vermin, but it is well to be provided with a small

bottle of oil of lavender, a preservative against bugs; but it will be

needed exceptionally only. The commercial traveller is all pervading.

He is sometimes interesting, occasionally objectionable, if a _farceur_

usually the latter. On entering a café or railway carriage, it is

customary to raise the hat, so also in leaving. For Maps get those of

the État Majeur, 57 Brest, 73 Châteaulin, 60 Dinan, 41 Lannion, 88

Lorient, 58 Morlaix, 117 Nantes, 40 Plouguerneau, 74 Pontivy, 87 Pont

l'Abbé, 72 Quimper, 90 Redon, 75 Rennes, 59 S. Brieuc, 42 Tréguier, 89

Vannes, 102 Belle Ile, 56 Ouessant. Of these each has 4 sheets, N.W.,

N.E., S.W., S.E., except these--102 Belle Ile has a single sheet, S.E.,

Lannion has only N.E., S.W., S.E., 56 Ouessant has only N.E., 87 Pont

l'Abbé only N.E., Tréguier only N.W., S.W., S.E.

 

[1] This is mixed with chicory, and is very liable to upset the

stomach.

 

Each sheet costs about 25 centimes or 2½d. The same can be had in

colours at 1 franc per sheet, but there is no great advantage in these

latter.

 

In this book routes have not been given, as there is such a diversity

of manner of travelling in these days, some going by train, and some by

bicycle and motor car. For the latter the best map is that published

by the cycling club, as it gives the roads that are suitable, and the

hills are all indicated. The line adopted in this book has been to

give the chefs-lieux d'arrondissement, and a few other places that are

suitable as centres, and to indicate what is to be seen within an easy range all round.