2015년 5월 27일 수요일

Golden Dreams and Leaden Realities 44

Golden Dreams and Leaden Realities 44



CHAPTER XXII.
 
 
Saturday, the 13th of September, 1851, at five o'clock in the evening,
we went on board the Carolina, then lying at the wharf, and all
ready for sea. She was a propeller of six hundred tons, built as a
two-decker, but had afterwards been raised by her present proprietors,
who, in their disinterested anxiety to promote the comfort of their
passengers, would gladly have gone on adding story to story till she
was as high as the Astor House or the Tower of Babel, if they could
only have devised a plan for making her as firm as either of those
centres of wealth and fashion. She seemed now as crowded as a well
filled pincushion; but it is a curious though well authenticated fact,
and one of which the various steamboat companies have not failed to
take advantage, that five hundred passengers returning from California
occupy little more room than half that number from the Atlantic
States; either because the disappointment that most of them meet with
operates like the prick of a pin on an inflated bladder, or because,
and this I apprehend is after all the true reason, the hot and arid
temperature of that country so dries up the fluids and juices of the
body that it gradually wizzles away till it is reduced to the same
condition as a mummy or dried apple.
 
Be this as it may, on looking round among my fellow passengers I saw
many who seemed to feel as if they could easily creep into a rat-hole;
and, for my own part, if it had not been for the belt round my waist,
I have no doubt I could have squeezed through a crack or into a
bottle without the slightest inconvenience. But gaunt, and wizzled,
and woe-begone as was the appearance of our company, it was nothing to
what was brought about by a few weeks' confinement on shipboard; so
that if the voyage had been long enough, a good sized pea-pod would
have furnished a craft amply sufficient for our shrunken mortality.
 
The Carolina went to sea with four hundred passengers, of whom nearly
three-fourths were in the steerage. The accommodations provided for
this class consisted of a large cabin on the lower deck, and a smaller
one directly above it, both furnished with berths similar to those
of a river steamboat, with this difference, that though scarcely
any wider, they were intended to be occupied by two persons. In
cold weather this would have been hardly tolerable, and the reader
can imagine the delights of such intimate fellowship in the sultry
sluggish air of the tropics. After one or two trials I gave up in
despair, and spreading my blankets on deck, slept there every night
during the remainder of the voyage. At least half of my companions had
the same choice--we made the vast Pacific our bed-chamber, and strewed
the lofty deck of our steamer thicker than leaves in Vallambrosa.
By eight o'clock every spot was occupied, and it was then almost
impossible to cross the deck, especially in rough weather, without
tripping over some unlucky nose, or flattening it level with the
astonished cheeks. The ship now became silent as the dawn of creation,
except the hoarse coffee-mill grinding of the propeller, and the
palpable stillness of the passing ripple. We could almost hear the
stars twinkling in the sky, and the hum-top spin of the round-faced
moon. This was delightful--delicious--enchanting--excessively
fine--but several hours later, about the time that the milk-cart
rattles o'er the stony street, and the fisherman's horn splits the
dull ear of night--when the punctual plodding Phoebus, climbing his
eastern ladder, streaks the wide horizon with his floating golden
hair--a mimic deluge, commencing at the forecastle, comes drowning
out our little world. Onto the hencoops! up into the rigging! down
into the steerage! every man for himself, and the long crawling hose,
a veritable sea-serpent, take the hindmost! "Oh! preserve us!" cries
some heavy dreamer, striking out as if to swim--"oh--ah--whooo! I
thought the ship was sinking;" and now wide awake, "Bless us! if I
don't wish she would."
 
This was pleasant weather, but sometimes it rained and blew. Then the
labouring ship, making more angles with the horizon than Sir Isaac
Newton ever dreamed of, rolled our loose disjointed bodies crunching
over the oaken planks--the sullen soddening rain hung every bristle on
our blankets with conglobing drops--or a phosphorescent wave drenched
us to the skin, filling our eyes, our mouths, our pockets, with its
briny flood. If all the resolutions made at such times should be kept,
few would ever trust themselves again to the treacherous element.
 
The first four days of our voyage passed pleasantly enough. The sea
was smooth, the sky was fair, a favouring breeze pushed us gently
on our way, and we ran in that time nearly nine hundred miles. The
thoughts of home with which all were occupied, though they produced a
silence and reserve strangely in contrast with the noisy hilarity of
the voyage out, at the same time disposed all to bear the hardships
and annoyances incident to their situation with patience and good
humour. We became by degrees, like a barrel of apples, shaken and
jolted into our places until we were able to move about the deck
without displacing another at every step. The prospect of a speedy
run, and the hope of beating the Panama that was to start two days
after us, heightened the general satisfaction.
 
But this scene was changed with the capricious suddenness of a play.
The fifth night I had spread my blankets on a hencoop, and fell asleep
with the stars burning undimmed in the firmament. I was awakened
about midnight by a dismal uproar for which no place on land is big
enough unless it be the desert of Sahara, or one of our western
prairies. A sudden squall had sprung up from the south, directly in
our teeth. The canvass awnings stretched across the deck twisted and
writhed as if in torture. The sailors, at the hoarse cry of "all hands
ahoy," came trampling along the deck, knocking down the stupid wakers
who sat upright on their blankets like half animated right angles, and
rubbed their sleepy eyes. Two hundred piles of bedding at one and the
same moment seemed endowed with the power of locomotion, and began to
walk, and creep, and tumble towards the steerage.
 
And now the mighty Pacific seemed bent on showing us what she could do
with our cockle-shell of a boat. After the first angry burst, as if
sounding the charge, she went to work with a coolness and deliberation
well suited to her royalty and power. She tossed us from one hand
to another with stunning violence. Her winds blew not wearily, but
with that fierce energy as if they had just been let loose from their
stalls. The sea went up, and the sky came down, as if, like the man in
the iron cage, we were to be crushed between the walls of our dungeon.
A sensation of sea-sickness--of stupidity--of utter loathing and yet
desire of life--of wet clothes clinging heavily to the shrunken,
shivering body--of breathing an atmosphere half air half water--a
feeling as if one had fins and scales--a constant holding on to hats,
or watching them with strange melancholy as they fly away in the
distance--these things, together with a dreamy, ill-defined sublimity
over all, make up a storm at sea.
 
But this was not the end. Our ship, after skilfully dodging for a
long time the tremendous blows aimed at her by the furious waves, at
length received such a punch in the breast as seemed fairly to knock
the breath out of her body. No outward injury was at first discovered,
but she bled inwardly and had evidently sprung a dangerous leak. I
was sitting like a perpendicular mummy on the deserted quarter-deck,
about two o'clock in the morning, watching the dim billows that sent
a constant flood of foam over the bows, when St. John came up, and
steadying himself by my chair, informed me in a sepulchral whisper
that there were ten feet of water in the hold, that the leak was
gaining fast, and threatened to put out the fires. Instinctively I
put my hand to the leathern belt around my waist, and groaned aloud.
Was it for this that I had braved the hardships of a six months'
voyage and the sickness and toil of two years in the mines? Was it
for this that I had spoilt forever the beauty of my hands and the
delicacy of my complexion? Had I stood day after day in those ice-cold
rivers, like a man with his feet on the pole and his head under the
equator--had I swallowed doses innumerable of oil and laudanum, of
blue mass and quinine, only to feed the fishes at last? If I had got
nothing, it would have been less matter; but as it was, how I hated
the ugly shark who would gulp me at a single mouthful, the richest
supper since Cleopatra's pearl. I got up, and unrolling myself from
my blankets, walked forward and looked down the hatchway above the
furnaces. A red and angry glare from the crevices around the doors
showed a mass of water black as pitch rolling and swashing with the
motion of the vessel within a foot of the fires. It was Phlegethon
shedding its baleful light on the dark and melancholy Styx. A group
of passengers stood leaning against the iron railing, watching with
strange interest the firemen below standing knee deep in the inky
flood, and still plying their task with sullen resolution. As they
threw open the clanging doors, we caught glimpses of the fires burning
with a fierceness of purpose that seemed to defy the ocean to put it
out; but still the insidious element crept on, and we already heard
the ominous hiss like the skirmishes before a great battle, as the
foremost of the assailants dashed against the bars of the furnace.
 
If the waters prevailed, as they were sure to do in this unequal
contest, our only hope of salvation was gone; for the pump attached
to the engine, though sadly out of order, and able to work but
about half the time, was still superior in effective service to the
united strength of all in the ship. As long as that could be kept in
operation there was no danger of the leak gaining upon us, and it
was owing simply to its having partially failed, that the state of
affairs now looked so threatening. One of the passengers, "a darned
bluenose," as he was styled by the ungrateful Yankees whose lives he
had volunteered to save at the risk of his own, had ventured out under
the bowsprit and nailed some canvass over the principal leak; but
there was another he could not reach, and the situation of which was
not exactly known. One declared it was under the engine--another, with
equal confidence, asserted that it was somewhere about the bows. It
was now discovered that the ship was known to be leaky when we sailed;
the first mate had said that they had been obliged to keep the pumps
going even while she lay at the wharf--the engineer confirmed this
story, and added, moreover, that the engine was in an equally unsafe
condition. It had in some way broken loose from its fastenings and
threatened to knock a hole through the ship's bottom, but by tying it
up with ropes they were enabled to maintain a sufficient weight of
steam to keep the ship's head to the wind; and in this situation we
lay for several days without making a single mile.
 
Still the services of the engine were indispensible to our safety, and
it was necessary under such a pressing emergency to take immediate
measures for its relief. Two of the passengers descended into the
hold and took their station by the side of the firemen. Others were
ranged at convenient intervals on the slender iron ladders that led
to the upper decks--a large number of buckets were provided, and the
work commenced. The undertaking was greatly impeded by the rolling and
pitching of the ship that rendered it at times extremely difficult to
maintain a footing upon the ladders, and now and then threw half a
bucket of water, that had nearly reached the top, down onto the heads
of those below.
 
But now the anxious question arose, would they be able to lower the
water in the hold or even to prevent its rising higher. For a long
time the scale hung in doubtful balance, but at last the cheerful news
was shouted up to us that the water was lowered about an inch. It
was now suggested to draw the supply for the boilers from within the
ship instead of taking that without. The pump used for this purpose
was accordingly set in operation, and by the united powers of men and
steam all fear of immediate danger was at length removed. The storm
had spent its violence, the sea became smooth, and in a few days we
arrived at Acapulco, where the Panama had gone in just before us.
Like her we will also improve the opportunity, and gladly escaping
from these boisterous scenes of alarm and confusion, take refuge in
the quiet haven of more serene and peaceful meditations. Wars and
battles, though occupying so large a space in history, are after all
far less deserving of our sober study than the more domestic narrative
of private firesides; and I trust the reader will turn with equal
satisfaction from storm and shipwreck to the individual interests of
our little community.
 
I take it for granted that all will agree with me in considering the
subject on which we are about entering, of paramount importance;
and this conviction, while it inflames my desire, at the same time
heightens my sense of my inability to do justice to a question of such universality of interest.

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