Golden Dreams and Leaden Realities 45
The clerk of whom we bought our tickets was a remarkably handsome
man, and when he assured us with an air of sincerity an angel might
have envied, that the steerage passengers would have the same fare
as that provided for the cabin, though in a little different shape,
I was simple enough to believe that it was at least one-half true.
This was the more inexcusable, as I had already been once deceived in
a similar manner, and had had the lesson, one would suppose, pretty
effectually ground into my stomach during our never-to-be-forgotten
voyage in the Leucothea. But as some one, I think it is the amiable
Pecksniff, feelingly observes, it is my nature to be deceived, and a
hundred voyages would probably have had no more effect. However, when
the handsome clerk had received our money, and had turned us over to
the tender mercies of a captain who knew nothing, and a parcel of
blacks who cared nothing what the steerage had to eat, we found that
the agent, who was probably a pleasant fellow, or a philosopher, had,
to say the least, indulged in a figure of speech when he made use of
the __EXPRESSION__ quoted above.
Chemically and philosophically he was undoubtedly correct, and a
chemist or a philosopher might have understood him; but a common
man, or any one taking his words in their every day meaning, would
have been wofully deceived. The cabin fare took the shape of roast
beef, and pork, and chickens--of pies and puddings--of soft tack and
butter--of nuts and fruit. By the time it reached the steerage, the
fresh had become salt--the soft tack had grown hard as the heart of
its owners--the puddings had degenerated into boiled rice, sometimes
raw, sometimes burnt, often both at once--while the pies and other
articles of the dessert were not there at all, either in their own
shape or any other.
There was another sense however in which the agent, who I never will
believe wilfully intended to deceive us, might have expected his
promise to be interpreted. All these various luxuries were prepared
in a single galley half sunk below the level of the deck and covered
by a grating and an open skylight. Around this grating the steerage
passengers were permitted to assemble, and snuff up as much of the
fragrant odours as mixed with other and less inviting exhalations,
found their way into the upper air. Sometimes, if one waited long
enough and humbled himself sufficiently, one of the black cooks would
extend to him graciously the royal favour, and bestow upon him a
pickle or a bit of bread, or even leave to him the superfluity of his
own repast. In addition to this inestimable privilege we dwellers in
the middle of the ship, half way between the aristocracy of the cabin
and the democracy of the forecastle, were allowed to feast our eyes
on the savoury messes carried past our quarters in tin pans of vast
circumference, and even to look on at a respectful distance while the
different watches ate and drank with the most sublime indifference.
The scene constantly reminded me of a huge mastiff gnawing a bone,
while a troop of curs and puppies walk about him, wistfully eyeing the
fragments as they disappear one after another in his capacious jaws,
and after he has finished carefully lick up every particle too small
for his magnanimous appetite.
But it would be necessary to descend still lower in the scale of
creation to find a fit illustration of the manner in which our meals
were conducted. Two narrow tables were suspended from the ceiling in
the upper cabin, capable of seating about seventy persons. As there
were nearly three hundred passengers, of course only one-fourth could
be accommodated at once, and the tables had to be set four times in
succession; so that each meal commonly occupied several hours. Out of
these three hundred at least two hundred and fifty were possessed with
an insane desire to sit down at the first table; either because they
fancied there would be a greater abundance, or from that abhorrence of
being last, which has come to be considered an American characteristic.
Long before the usual hour, a little knot of the more hungry, or
more determined sort, had collected round the hatch opening into the
steerage. At the same time various symptoms began to show that all
were in expectation of some important event. The readers shut up their
books and put them into their pockets--the card players swept up their
cards from the deck--the talkers stopped talking and pricked up their
ears--every thing foretold the impending dinner. The crowd around the
hatchway has grown larger and denser, and only waits the steward's
signal to precipitate itself almost bodily into the steerage below.
Those in the centre sit with their legs dangling down the hatch, and
from this elevated position eye the sluggish movements of the waiters
with ravenous impatience.
"What they got for dinner?" cries some unfortunate on the skirts of
the throng vainly striving to look over the shoulders of the circle.
"Roast turkey and plum pudding," answer half a dozen voices, "don't
you wish you could get some?" and this well-worn jest never fails to
be received with shouts of laughter. At last all the preparations
are completed--the step ladder is reared against the deck, and in
an instant eighty hungry bipeds drop, like apples from a tree when
violently shaken, down into the steerage. But at the same moment a
second party, who have lain all the while perdu in their berths,
suddenly emerge from their hiding-places and appropriate without
ceremony all the seats on one side of the tables, and half of the
eighty are obliged to return grumbling and swearing to the deck.
And now begins a scene of confusion such as fortunately is witnessed
nowhere except at sea. Half-a-dozen hands are at once stretched out
for the salt beef, but the dish is of tin and will bear hard pulling.
The one who prevails in the contest cuts off the choicest bit for
himself, and pushes the dish to his next neighbour. "Hand along them
pertaters"--"pass up that bread"--"here waiter! steward! the soup
is all gone"--"can't help it; it's all there is"--"give me a mug, I
say"--"what the d---- do you call this?"--"I haven't had a potato
these three days"--"faugh! the rice's burnt again"--"that feller's got
'em all"--"let me out o' this, I say"--such are the cries that, larded
with a plentiful sprinkling of oaths, go to make up the conversation
at this elegant repast.
But luckily it is of no long duration; in fifteen or twenty minutes
the last straggler has disappeared up the hatch, and the tables are
put in order for the second division. The excitement is now even
greater than before, and the same scenes as those last described are
repeated in a still more aggravated form on each successive occasion.
The last comers were sometimes too impatient to wait till the dishes
could be washed, and filled up the benches as fast as they were
vacated by their predecessors. Thus the same plate might be kept in
constant service, and the successive strata of beef and mustard, rice
and molasses, that had accumulated on its surface, would afford a very
accurate index of the number of times it had been employed.
To obviate as far as possible the evils arising from this state of
confusion, the passengers voluntarily divided into four sections, and
determined by lot the order of precedence. This order was to continue
until we reached Acapulco, when it was to be reversed, the first
division becoming last, and the last first. This arrangement, however,
was never carried into effect, inasmuch as the first and second
divisions suddenly discovered that it would not be for their advantage
to fulfil the contract; and accordingly all things returned to their
original chaos.
In hopes of obtaining a little improvement in our bill of fare we also
agreed to have but two meals a day, but this hope proving utterly
fallacious, this measure became extremely unpopular, and it was
impossible to find a single passenger who would allow that he had
voted in its favour. After various remonstrances made to the captain
and other officers by different individuals, a mass meeting was held
and a committee of three appointed to state our grievances to the
captain and solicit his interference. The great man received them
graciously, and promised after dinner to visit the steerage in person.
Accordingly about the middle of the afternoon he was seen advancing
towards our quarters. Attended by an eager crowd of followers he
descended the ladder, and looked curiously round on the novel and
interesting spectacle. A plate was presented to him containing a
portion of hot water with a little grease floating on the surface,
and dignified by the name of soup. With the flavour of roast chicken
and plum pudding yet lingering about his palate it was hardly to be
expected that he should find such a compound much to his liking; but
it was no slight proof of condescension even to taste it at all, and
manifested a freedom from vulgar prejudice and a willingness to be
convinced worthy of the highest praise.
As many of the passengers as could find standing room had followed
the captain down the ladder, and now stood peeping over each other's
shoulders and watching his movements in respectful silence. The rest
gathered round the hatch on deck, and as they could not see what was
going on one of their number would from time to time inquire of those
below, and then repeat the answer for the benefit of his companions.
"What's the cap'n doing?" says the telegraph on deck.
"He's lookin' round," returns the other in a loud whisper.
"An' what's he doing now?"
"He's tastin' the soup."
"An' what does he say?"
"He says it's first rate;" and at this a low murmur of disapprobation
runs through the crowd. "Hang his old pictur! I wish he had to eat
it," cries one, shrugging his shoulders.
"It's just what I expected," mutters another who looks as if he had a
fancy to play the part of Catiline. "I tell you nothing'll ever do any
good till we take the law into our own hands."
All those within hearing of these daring words instantly turn their
eyes towards the speaker, some with sympathetic admiration, others
to take his measure and see if his bearing corresponds with his
utterance; while he, conscious of the scrutiny, straightens himself
up and stares disdainfully into vacancy. Half-a-dozen of the same
kidney then work their way up to him, and they all begin in a low
tone to discuss the reasons why they should deprive the captain of
his command, and, if he resisted, put him in irons or even tow him
overboard for a mile or two. All seem greatly pleased with this last
suggestion, for the idea of a steamboat captain bobbing up and down
at the end of a long rope, and bubbling out his cries for help, and
promises of amendment is, it must be confessed, very facetious and
amusing. These arch conspirators thus mutually inflamed their noble
rage, and proved so conclusively that they ought to take command of
the ship, and the ease with which it could be done, that I never
exactly understood why they didn't do it.
Captain W. having finished his inspection again mounted the ladder,
and unconscious of the dangers by which he was surrounded walked
calmly through the crowd that opened to give a passage. I expected at
every step to see rude hands laid on his collar, and a revolver at
each ear; but at this unlucky moment every one seemed seized with a
sudden attack of modesty that disposed him to remain in the background
and yield the post of honour to others. If it had not been for this
unfortunate coincidence I have no doubt I should have been gratified
by witnessing the entertaining spectacle suggested above; for the
captain, having stopped but a moment at the galley to give some orders
to the cooks, had no sooner passed the mainmast than his enemies all
at once regained their usual confidence, and shook their fists at him behind his back with most alarming ferocity.
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