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The Story of Assisi 5

The Story of Assisi 5


The ceremony was simple, wherein lies the charm of all things
franciscan. The service over and the last blessing given, St. Francis
led Clare towards the altar and with his own hands cut off her long
fair hair and unclasped the jewels from her neck. But a few minutes
more and a daughter of the proud house of Scifi stood clothed in the
brown habit of the order, the black veil of religion falling about her
shoulders, lovelier far in this nun-like severity than she had been
when decked out in all her former luxury of silken gowns and precious
gems.

It was arranged that Clare was to go afterwards to the benedictine
nuns of San Paolo near Bastia, about an hour's walk further on in the
plain. So when the final vows had been taken, St. Francis took her by
the hand and they passed out of the chapel together just as dawn was
breaking, while the brethren returned to their cells gazing half sadly
as they passed, at the coils of golden hair and the little heap of
jewels which still lay upon the altar cloth.

       *       *       *       *       *

Those early days at the Portiuncula were among the most important of
Francis' life; dreams which had come to him while he spent long hours
in the caves and woods near Assisi were to be fully realised, and the
work he felt inspired to perform was to be carried out in the busy
villages and cities of Italy and even further afield. All this was now
very clear to Francis, and more than ever anxious to keep the
simplicity of his order untouched, he taught his followers, in words
which fell so gently yet so earnestly from his lips, that they were to
toil without ceasing, and restlessly and without pause to wander from
castle to castle, from city to city, in search of those who needed
help. It may therefore at first seem strange that the "Penitents of
Assisi" owning nothing but the peace within their hearts, desiring no
better place for prayer than a cavern in some mountain gorge, should
establish themselves near a chapel which, if not nominally their own,
was practically regarded as the property of the Friars Minor. But in
this again we feel the wisdom and tenderness of the saint for his
little community. With all the fervour and fire of enthusiasm which
impelled him like a living force to seek his end, he well knew that
without some place in which to meet together and rest awhile, his
followers, who however much imbued with his ardent spirit were but
mortal men, would very likely fall away from the high ideal he had set
before them.

Thus the Portiuncula became to the brethren as a nest, where like
tired birds that long had been upon the wing, they could return after
much wandering to peaceful thoughts, to prayer and quiet labour.

  [Illustration: THE PORTIUNCULA IN THE TIME OF ST. FRANCIS (FROM THE
  "COLLIS PARADISI").]

It is not very difficult, with the print from the "Collis
Paradisi"[57] before us, and the remembrance of the large oaks
which still mark the ancient Roman roads leading from Assisi to the
plain, to call up the picture of the strange franciscan hamlet
clustering round a pent-roofed chapel, and with only trees for a
convent wall. What a life of peace in the mud huts! what a life of
turmoil and angry strife raging in the city just in sight!

The spirit of those days, when monachism meant all that was purely
ideal and beautiful, seems to live again. Then, day and night, each
brother strove to fit himself for the work he had in view, drawing
into his soul the peace and love he learned from nature herself as the
forest leaves rustled above his cell or the nightingales accompanied
the midnight office with their song. And when his turn came to take up
the pilgrim's staff and follow the lead of Francis, he went with
cheerfulness to bring to the people some of that child-like joy and
lightness of heart which marked the Little Brethren through whatever
land they wandered as the disciples of St. Francis.

Let us for a moment leave the Umbrian valley for the country near
Oxford, where on a bitter Christmas Day, two friars were journeying
upon their first mission to England.

"Going into a neighbouring wood they picked their way along a rugged
path over the frozen mud and hard snow, whilst blood stained the track
of their naked feet without their perceiving it. The younger friar
said to the elder: 'Father, shall I sing and lighten our journey?' and
on receiving permission he thundered forth a Salve Regina
misericordiæ.... Now, when the hymn was concluded ... he who had been
the consoler said, with a kind of self congratulation to his
companion: 'Brother, was not that antiphonal well sung?'"

In this simple story, told us in the chronicle of Lanercost, how true
rings the franciscan note struck by Francis in those early days at the
Portiuncula. He was for ever telling the brethren not to show
sorrowful faces to one another, saying, as recorded by Brother Leo:
"Let this sadness remain between God and thyself, and pray to Him that
of His mercy He may forgive thee, and restore to thy soul His healthy
joyance whereof He deprived thee as a punishment for thy sins."

It is all so long ago, and yet in reading those ancient chronicles the
big church of the Angeli is for a time forgotten, and only the vision
of the Portiuncula and the mud huts, with the brethren ever to and fro
upon the road, remains with us as a strange picture in our modern
hurried life.

But although the brethren lived so quietly in this retreat of still
repose, St. Francis, ever watching over the welfare of his flock, was
careful that prayer and meditation should never be an excuse for
idleness, which of all vices he most abhorred. Therefore he encouraged
each friar who in the world had followed some trade, to continue it
here; so we hear of Beato Egidio, on his return from one of his long
journeys, seated at the door of his hut busily employed in making rush
baskets, while Brother Juniper, in those rare moments when he was out
of mischief, would pass his time in mending sandals with an awl he
kept up his sleeve for the purpose. Besides these individual
occupations there was much to attend to even in such humble dwellings
as those round the Portiuncula. Sometimes there were sick friars to
nurse, or vegetables had to be planted in the orchard and provisions
to be obtained, while the office of doorkeeper, as "Angels" came
perpetually to ask pertinent questions of the brethren, became quite a
laborious task. When it fell to Brother Masseo to answer the door he
had little peace. Upon one occasion he went in haste to see who was
making such a noise and found a "fair youth clothed as though for a
journey," so he spoke somewhat roughly, and the youth enquired how
knocking should be done. "Give three knocks," quoth Brother Masseo,
little dreaming he was instructing an angel in the art of knocking,
"with a brief space between each knock, then wait until the brother
has time to say a paternoster and to come unto thee; and if at the end
of that time he does not come knock once again."

Things went smoothly enough when left to the management of such friars
as Leo, Masseo or Rufino, but when one day the office of cook fell to
Juniper, that dear jester of the brotherhood, we get a humorous
picture of what his companions sometimes had to endure, and of the
kindness with which they pardoned all shortcomings. The brethren had
gone out, and Juniper being left alone devised an excellent plan
whereby the convent might be supplied with food for a fortnight, and
thus the cook have more time for prayer. "With all diligence," it is
related in the _Fioretti_, "he went into the village and begged for
several large cooking-pots, obtained fresh meat and bacon, fowls, eggs
and herbs, also he begged a quantity of firewood, and placed all these
upon the fire, to wit, the fowls with their feathers on, the eggs in
their shells, and the rest in like fashion." When the brethren came
home, one that was well acquainted with the simplicity of Brother
Juniper went into the kitchen, and seeing so many and such large pots
on a great fire, sat down amazed without saying a word, and watched
with what anxious care Brother Juniper did this cooking. Because of
the fierceness of the fire he could not well get near to skim the
pots, so he took a plank and tied it with a rope tight to his body and
sprang from one pot to the other, so that it was a joy to see him.
Contemplating all with great delight, this brother went forth from the
kitchen and finding the other brothers, said: "In sooth I tell you,
Brother Juniper is making a marriage feast."

Then in hurried Juniper, all red with his exertions and the heat of
the fire, explaining the excellent plan he had devised; and as he set
his mess upon the table he praised it, saying: "Now these fowls are
nourishing to the brain, this stew will refresh the body, it is so
good"; but the stew remained untasted, for, says the _Fioretti_,
"there is no pig in the land of Rome so famished that he would eat of
it."

At the end of any foolish adventure Brother Juniper would always ask
pardon with such humility that he edified his companions and all the
people he came in contact with, instead of annoying them with his
childish pranks. His goodness was manifest, and St. Francis was often
heard to say to those who wished to reprove him after one of his
wildest frolics, "would that I had a whole forest of these junipers."

Between the men who lived at the Portiuncula with the saint, and those
who in later times ruled large convents in the cities, the contrast
is so great that we would wish to draw still further from these
inexhaustible chronicles which reveal so charmingly the life of these
Umbrian friars. But to tell of all the events connected with the
Portiuncula would mean recounting the history of the whole franciscan
brotherhood, and we must now pass over many years to that saddest year
of all, when St. Francis was brought to die in the place he had so
carefully tended.

  [Illustration: ASSISI FROM THE PLAIN]

Knowing that he had but a few more weeks of life, he begged the
brethren to find some means to carry him away from the Bishop's Palace
at Assisi where he had been staying some time. "Verily," he told them
pathetically, "because of my very infirmity I cannot go afoot"; so
they carried him in their arms down the hill to the plain, and when
they came to the hospital of San Salvatore dei Crociferi they laid him
gently down upon the ground with his face towards Assisi, because he
desired to bless the town for the last time before he died.

The blind saint, lifting his hand in blessing, pronounced these words
dear to the hearts of the Assisans to this day: "Blessed be thou of
the Lord, O city, faithful to God, because through thee many souls
shall be saved. The servants of the Most High shall dwell in great
numbers within thy walls, and many of thy sons shall be chosen for the
realms of heaven."

Then they carried him to the hut nearest the Portiuncula which was the
infirmary, and here his last days were passed.[58] Although he
suffered acutely, they were days of marvellous peace and joy. It is
beautiful to read how, with his usual tenderness, he thought of the
brethren he was leaving to carry on the work without him, encouraging
them all as they stood weeping round his bed. Like Isaac of old, the
Umbrian patriarch blessed his first born, Bernard of Quintavalle,
saying: "Come my little son that my soul may bless thee before I die,"
while he enjoined upon all to love and honour Bernard, who had been
the first to listen to his words now so many years ago. With all his
sons near him St. Francis dictated his will, wherein he describes the
way of life they were to lead, and which, coming from him at this
solemn moment, must always remain as a precious message from the
saint, in many ways of more importance than the Rule approved in his
life-time by Pope Honorius. When this was done he commended once again
to their special care the chapel of the Portiuncula. "I will," he said
to them, "that for all times it be the mirror and good example of all
religion, and as it were a lamp ever burning and resplendent before
the throne of God and before the Blessed Virgin."

The farewells to those of his immediate circle had been made and a
letter written to St. Clare, and now he wished to bid "the most noble
Roman matron, Madonna Giacoma dei Settesoli," one of his most devoted
followers, to come and take leave of him at Assisi. The letter had
only just been written when knocking at the door and the sound of
horses trampling was heard outside, and the brethren going out to
discover the cause of such unwonted noise found that Madonna Giacoma,
accompanied by her sons, two Roman senators, had been inspired to come
and visit the dying saint.

The brethren, somewhat averse to allow a woman, even one so renowned
for holiness as Madonna Giacoma, to enter their sacred precincts,
called to St. Francis in their doubt: "Father, what shall be done?
Shall we let her enter and come unto thee?" And the Blessed Francis
said: "The regulation is to be set aside in respect to this lady whose
great faith and devotion hath brought her hither from such far-off
parts." So Madonna Giacoma came into the presence of the Blessed
Francis weeping bitterly, and she brought with her the shroud-cloth,
incense, and a great quantity of wax for the candles which were to
burn before his body after death. She had even thought of some cakes
made of almonds and sugar, known in Rome by the name of _mostaccioli_,
which she had often made for him when he visited her. But the saint
was fast failing, and could eat but little of the cakes.

As the end came nearer his thoughts were drawn away from earth, and
true to the last to his Lady Poverty, he caused himself to be laid
naked on the ground as a token of his complete renouncement of the
world. His face radiant with happiness, he kept asking his companions
to recite the Canticle of the Sun, often joining in it himself or
breaking forth into his favourite psalm _Voce mea ad Dominum Clamavi_.

With words of praise and gladness the Blessed Francis of Assisi, the
spouse of Poverty, died in a mud hut close to the shrine he loved, on
the 3rd of October of 1226 in the forty-fifth year of his age.

His soul was seen to ascend to heaven under the semblance of a star,
but brilliant as the sun, upon clouds as white as snow. It was sunset,
the hour when in Umbria after the stillness of a warm autumn day an
unusual tremor passes through the land and all things in the valley
and upon the hill-sides are stirred by it, when a flight of larks
circled above the roof of the hut where the saint lay at rest. And
these birds of light and gladness "seemed by their sweet singing to be
in company with Francis praising the Lord God."

FOOTNOTES:

[51] It has sometimes happened that visitors, who have not read their
Murray with sufficient care, thinking "Le Carceri" are prisons where
convicts are kept, leave Assisi without visiting this charming spot.
"Carceri" certainly now means "prisons," but the original meaning of
the word in old Italian is a place surrounded by a fence and often
remote from human habitation.

[52] It is perhaps an insult to the Tescio to leave the traveller in
Umbria under the impression that this mountain torrent is always dry.
Certainly that is its usual condition, but we have seen it during the
storms that break upon the land in August and September overflow its
banks and inundate the country on either side; but with this wealth of
water its beauty goes.

[53] The large modern church of Rivo-Torto, on the road from Sta.
Maria degli Angeli to Spello, built to enclose the huts that St.
Francis and his companions are supposed to have lived in while tending
the lepers, has been proved without doubt by M. Paul Sabatier to have
no connection whatever with the Saint. In these few pages we have
followed the information given in a pamphlet which is to be found in
the Italian translation of his _Vie de S. Francois d'Assise_. It is
impossible here to enter into all the arguments relating to this
disputed point, but I think the authority of the best, and by far the
most vivid of the biographers of St. Francis can be trusted without
further comment, and that we may safely believe the hut of St.
Francis, known as Rivo-Torto, lay close to the present chapels of San
Rufino d'Arce and Sta. Maria Maddalena. See Appendix for information
as to their exact position in the plain and the nearest road to them.
_Disertazione sul primo luogo abitato dai Frati Minori su Rivo-Torto e
nell'Ospedale dei Lebbrosi di Assisi._ di Paul Sabatier (Roma, Ermanno
Loescher and Co., 1896).

[54] See _The Transactions of the Royal Irish Academy_, vol. xxvii.
Nov. 1882.

[55] _Speculum Perfectionis_, cap. lv., edited by Paul Sabatier.

[56] This custom ceased in the fifteenth century; but in the year
1899, through the piety of the Rev. Father Bernardine Ibald, it was
revived. Once again the franciscans take a small basket of fish to the
abbot and his monks who now live at S. Pietro in Assisi, where the
benedictines went when their mountain retreat was destroyed by order
of the Assisan despot, Broglia di Trino.

[57] This illustration is from a print to be seen in the somewhat rare
edition of the _Collis Paradisi Amoenitas, seu Sacri Conventus
Assisiensis Historiæ_, published in 1704 at Montefalco by Padre
Angeli, and it may even have been taken from an earlier drawing. In it
there is the true feeling of a franciscan convent, such as the saint
hoped would continue for all time, and though there are some points
which are incorrect (the Church of Sta. Chiara, though curiously
enough not the convent, is represented, which was built several years
later than San Francesco), we get a clear idea of both Assisi and its
immediate neighbourhood. All the ancient gates of the town can be made
out, the Roman road from Porta Mojano to San Rufino d'Arce, a faint
indication of the path to the Carceri, and also the old road from
Assisi to the plain out of the gate of S. Giacomo, passing not very
far from the Ponte S. Vittorino. The wall round the Portiuncula and
the huts did not exist in the time of St. Francis, which, together
with the wooden gate, may have been added by Brother Elias. The
largest hut a little to the right of the chapel was the infirmary
where St. Francis died (now called the Chapel of St. Francis), and the
one behind it was his cell (now known as the Chapel of the Roses, see
chapter xi. for its story), whence he could easily pass out through
the woods to San Rufino d'Arce hard by.

[58] For fuller account see _The Mirror of Perfection_, translated by
Sebastian Evans, caps. 107, 108, 112, and _The Little Flowers of St.
Francis_, translated by J. W. Arnold (Temple Classics), chap. vi.




CHAPTER IV

_The building of the Basilica and Convent of San Francesco. The Story
of Brother Elias_

   "O brother mine, O beautiful brother, O brother of love, build me
   a castle which shall have neither stone nor iron. O beautiful
   brother, build me a city which shall have neither wood nor
   stone."--BEATO EGIDIO.


One of the strangest characteristics of mediæval Italy was the rivalry
between different towns to gain possession of the bodies of holy
people. They did not even wait for the bull of canonisation to arrive
from Rome, but often of their own accord placed the favoured being in
the Calendar of Saints, and papal decrees merely ratified the choice
of popular devotion. We have an example of this with the Perugians.
Ever on the alert to increase the glory of their city, they hovered
near the road St. Francis was to follow during his last illness when
borne from Cortona to Assisi, meaning to carry him off by force so
that he might die in Perugia.[59] Never at a loss for a way out of any
difficulty Elias hastily changed the itinerary for the journey, and
instead of the short way by lake Thrasymene he took the much longer
and more difficult road by Gualdo and Nocera, far back in the
mountains to the north of Assisi. He warned the Assisans of the peril
run by the little company of friars with their sick father, and
soldiers were immediately sent to escort them safely to the Bishop's
Palace where St. Francis stayed until carried to the Portiuncula when
he knew that he was dying.

They were sad days at Assisi when St. Francis was borne through the
city blind and ill; and as he stretched out his hands to bless the
people they bowed their heads and wept at the sight of so much
suffering. Now that the end had come and they knew he lay safely in
the little shrine of the Portiuncula, their mourning was changed into
rejoicing, and as though they were preparing for a great festival,
strange sounds of busy talk, of laughter and of singing were heard in
the streets. Had a stranger found himself at Assisi that Sunday
morning he might well have asked: "What victory have you gained to
merit all this show of gladness, or what emperor are you going forth
to greet?" And the answer would have been: "Francis, our saint, the
son of Bernardone, returned to us when he was nigh to death, and now
that he is dead we possess his body which will bring great honour and
fame to our city by reason of the many miracles to be wrought at his
tomb."

The sun had not yet risen when the Assisans left their houses and
thronged down the hill to the Portiuncula to bring the precious burden
to rest within the more certain refuge of their walled town. "Blessed
and praised be the Lord our God who has entrusted to us, though
unworthy, so great a gift. Praise and glory to the ineffable Trinity,"
they sang as they hurried along in the cold dawn. Trumpeters blew loud
and discordant notes, nearly drowning the voices of the priests who
vainly in the din tried to intone the canticles and psalms. The nobles
came from their castles with lighted torches to join the procession,
the peasants from the hills brought sprigs of olive, and those from
the forests stripped the oaks of their finest branches which they
waved above their heads, while children strewed the ground with
flowers.

Amidst all this stirring show of joy a kindly thought had been taken
of St. Clare and her nuns, so that when the body of St. Francis had
been laid in a coffin, and the long line of friars, priests and
townsmen turned to climb the hill, they took a path skirting just
below the town, through the vineyards and olive groves, to the convent
of San Damiano. The sound of chanting must have warned the watchers of
their approach long before they came in sight. An artist has pictured
the nuns like a flock of timid sheep in his fresco, trooping out of an
exquisitely marbled chapel, with St. Clare endeavouring to suppress
her grief as she bends over the dead Francis, while the sisters press
close behind her. This is how it ought to have been; but, alas, only
an iron lattice, through which the nuns were wont to receive the Holy
Communion, was opened for them, and the friars lifting the body of St.
Francis from the coffin, held it in their arms at the opening as one
by one the nuns came to kiss the pierced hands. "Madonna Chiara's"
tears fell fast as she gazed on him who had brought such joy into her
cloistered solitude. "Oh father, father," she murmured, "what are we
to do now that thou hast abandoned us unhappy ones? With thee departs
all consolation, for buried here away from the world there is none to
console us." Restraining the lamentations which filled her heart she
passed like a shadow out of sight to her cell, and when all the
sisters had bidden farewell to St. Francis, the small window was
closed "never again to open upon so sad a scene."

The people, who until now had wept bitterly, began to sing again as
the procession went on its way up the hill towards the Porta Mojano.
The trumpets sounded louder than ever, and "with jubilation and great
exultation" the sacred body was brought to the church of San Giorgio,
where it was carefully laid in a marble urn covered with an iron
grating, and guarded day and night from the prying eyes of the
Perugians. If Francis had worked miracles during his life, those
chronicled at his tomb are even more marvellous; in recounting some
which read like fairy tales, a biographer recounts with pride that,
"even from heaven, the Saint showed his courtesy to all."

Devotion to St. Francis was not confined to Umbria or even to Italy,
for we read how his fame spread throughout France, and how the King
and Queen with all the barons of the land, came to Paris to kiss one
of his relics. "People journeyed from the east and from the west,"
enthusiastically exclaims Celano with a total disregard of detail,
"they came from the north and from the south, even the learned and the
lettered who abounded in Paris at that time."

But while France was being stirred by the news of perpetual miracles
and prodigies wrought through the intercession of the saint, and
Assisi in consequence was fast growing into a place of great
importance in the world, Pope Gregory IX, who had been lately elected
upon the death of Honorius III, spent many hours in the Cannonica at
Perugia wrestling with his doubts concerning the truth of the greatest
miracle of all, the miracle of the Stigmata. While in this state of
uncertainty and perplexity St. Francis, the _Fioretti_ relates,
appeared to him one night, and showed him the five wounds inflicted by
the Seraph upon his hands, feet and side. The vision, it seems,
dispelled all doubt from the mind of Pope Gregory, for in conclave
with the cardinals he proclaimed the sanctity of his friend, the
Poverello d'Assisi, and determined to set the final seal of the church
upon his miracles and fame.

This vision was the prelude of a great ceremony held a few days later
in San Giorgio for the canonisation of Francis, at which all Umbria
seems to have been present. Pope Gregory, clothed in vestments of
cloth of gold embroidered with precious stones, his tiara "almost as
an aureole of sanctity about his head," sat stiffly on his pontifical
throne like some carved image, surrounded by cardinals in crimson
garments and bishops in white stoles. All eyes were fixed upon this
splendid group, and it is not improbable that among the spectators
stood Pietro Bernardone and Madonna Pica, and many who had reviled
Francis in his early days of sanctity, and now, within two years of
his death, witnessed him placed among the greatest of the saints.
Gregory had prepared an eloquent address, which he delivered in a
sonorous voice occasionally broken by sobs of emotion. Becoming more
and more enthusiastic as he proceeded, he compared Francis to a full
moon, a refulgent sun, a star rising above the morning mists, and when
he had finished the pious homily, a sub-deacon read out a list of the
saint's miracles, and a learned cardinal, "not without copious
weeping," discoursed thereon, while the Pope listened, shedding
"rivers of tears," and breaking forth every now and then into
deep-drawn sighs. The prelates wept so devoutly that their vestments
were in great part wet, and the ground was drenched with their tears.
The ceremony ended when the Pope rose to bless the people, and intoned
the _Te Deum_, in which all joined with such good will that the "earth
resounded in great jubilee."

Had St. Francis foreseen how his humility would be rewarded? This we
know, that he in part had realised how his order would slip away from
his ideal, and there is a deep note of sadness in many pages of his
life, showing us how fully he realised the pitfalls his disciples were
likely to fall into when he was no longer there to watch over them
with tender care. Often while he was absent for only a little time the
brethren forgot his simple rule, building cells and houses too
spacious and pretentious for the home of the Lady Poverty. This had
been one of the signs to him that his earnest prayers to God, his
example and admonitions to his followers, which come to us through his
letters and the pages of Brother Leo like the cry of one who bravely
fought against the inevitable, were all to be in vain. It is a tragic
story, and rendered still more so by the fact that the Saint's last
years should have been saddened by this knowledge of coming events.

Only a little while and the teaching of poverty and obscurity which he
had so deeply implanted in the hearts of his followers was to be
completely swept away; upon the ruins of that first franciscan order,
guarded jealously for a time by a faithful few, arose the new
franciscan spirit which Elias Buonbarone, inspired by the will of
Gregory IX, brought into being almost before the echo of his master's
words had died away. It is not for us in this small space to trace
the many changes that crept into the young community, but we simply
note as a fact, what to some may appear exaggerated, that the order
St. Francis founded, and prayed would continue as he left it, ceased
at his death, while the order that grew up afterwards bore the
unmistakable stamp of Elias and the Vatican.

       *       *       *       *       *

The extraordinary humility of St. Francis gave rise to the myth that
when he lay dying at the Portiuncula he expressed a strong desire to
be buried in the most despised spot near Assisi, which, because
criminals were said to have been executed there, bore the name of
Colle del Inferno. It seems unlike him to have been concerned with
what might become of "brother body" after death, and it was probably
not until Gregory IX conceived the idea of building a church in honour
of his friend, that a suitable burial-place was searched for near the
walls of the town, if not actually within them, where the citizens
could safely guard the precious relics. Everything favoured the
designs of Gregory, for not only was he fortunate in finding a man
like Elias, capable, prompt and energetic, but the one place suited
for the erection of a great church, happened to be in the possession
of a generous citizen of Assisi. No sooner were the wishes of the
Pontiff made known than Simon Puzzarelli offered his land on the
Collis Inferni, which from this time forward Gregory ordered to be
called Collis Paradisi, the Hill of Paradise.[60]

A document, duly sealed and signed, is still in the Assisan archives,
in which we read how the site for the building of "an oratory or
church for the most holy body of St. Francis" was given over, in words
that admitted of no withdrawal, to Elias as representative of the Lord
Pope Gregory IX--"dedit, tradedit, cesset, delegavit et donavit
simpliciter et irrevocabiliter." Now the use of the word _oratory_ is
a remarkable fact as suggesting that at the beginning the Assisans
little dreamed of the erection of a great basilica which would cast
their cathedral entirely into the shade.

A few days after the ceremony of the canonisation of St. Francis, Pope
Gregory, amid the usual crowd of Umbrian spectators, laid the
foundation-stone of the franciscan basilica. Then being recalled by
his Roman subjects, whom Assisan chroniclers describe as "a race of
men most seditious and fierce," he was obliged to hurry south, leaving
Elias to carry out his wishes as he thought best.

So far the task left to Elias was easy enough, for money was not
lacking, and countless workmen were ready to begin the great
enterprise; but the question of who should design a church upon the
site chosen was a more difficult matter to settle, as Vasari tells us:
"There was a great scarcity of good architects at this time, and the
church, having to be built upon a very high hill, at the base of which
flows a torrent called the Tescio, an excellent artist was required
for the work. After much deliberation a certain Maestro Jacopo Tedesco
was called to Assisi as being the best architect then to be found, and
having examined the site, and consulted the wishes of the fathers, who
were holding a Chapter in Assisi to discuss the matter, he designed
the plan of a very beautiful church and convent."[61]

"Jacopo" is said to have come to Italy in the retinue of the Emperor
Frederick II. Vasari recounts that the fame he gained all over Italy
by his work at Assisi was so great that the Florentines summoned him
to build them bridges and palaces, and "Jacopo," charmed with the
Tuscan city, married and dwelt there. The citizens, following a custom
which still continues in every Italian town, changed his name to Lapo,
and he is revealed to us as father of the famous Arnolfo di Lapo,
architect of the Florentine cathedral and of the Palazzo della
Signoria. In the seductive pages of Vasari the account reads so
pleasantly that it seems a pity later writers should have discovered
that the story rests upon uncertain dates and legends. Vasari's
endeavour to amalgamate three artists into one person, have forced
many to the opposite extreme, until even the existence of "Jacopo
Tedesco" is denied, and they are reduced to speak of _an_ architect
who designed the church and convent of San Francesco.[62]

Such is the irony of fate, that while numerous documents remain giving
the names of contractors and minor masons employed in the building
there is absolutely no evidence or clue of any kind as to the
architect employed by Elias. We can only suppose that the document
relating to this and other interesting points in connection with the
decoration of the church, must have been destroyed by the Perugians
when they sacked Assisi under Jacopo Piccinino and burnt so many
treasures in the archives. We are consequently at the mercy of local
legends, which were no doubt recounted to Vasari by the Assisans
themselves when he visited the town in the middle of the sixteenth
century. But there is still the evidence of our own eye to help us to
know something of the builder of San Francesco, the builder of the
first Gothic church in Italy. We are told he was a German; but then we
know from Mr Fergusson's Handbook of Architecture that Germans were
only just awakening to the Gothic influences at the time of St.
Francis's death, and, when they wished to build churches in the new
style they called in French masons to help them. Was it therefore
likely that Germany should have given the mysterious architect to
Assisi? A church recalling the Assisan Basilica may be vainly searched
for in Germany or in Lombardy and this further fact inclines us to
believe in the theory of M. Edouard Corroyer.

  [Illustration: CHURCH AND CONVENT OF SAN FRANCESCO]

Whether the man who conceived the original idea of raising one church
above another flanked by a colonnaded convent on the spur of a great
mountain was called Philip or James, or whether he came from a Lombard
or a German province seems of small importance compared with the
country where he learned his art. Even supposing "Jacopo" to have been
a northern Italian from the home of the Comacine Guild of master
masons, which is extremely likely, everything goes to prove that he
must have drawn his inspiration for the Assisan Basilica straight
from the south of France. What establishes the French parentage of
San Francesco is the mode of construction, especially visible in the
Upper Church, and which, as M. Corroyer says, "possesses all the
characteristics peculiar to the French architecture in the south of
France at the close of the thirteenth and the beginning of the
fourteenth century, of which the Cathedral of Albi [in Aquitaine] is
the most perfect type. The single nave, its buttresses projecting
externally in the form of half turrets, add to the likeness of the
Italian church of Assisi with that of Albi in France."[63] A glance at
the illustrations of the two churches will bear this theory out better
than many words; and it will be seen at once that had the half turrets
between the bay windows of San Francesco been completed with pointed
roofs and small lancet windows, as no doubt was the intention, the
likeness would be even more striking.

Although "Jacopo" left a very substantial mark of his genius upon the
Umbrian hill-side, he came and went like a shadow, leaving his designs
and plans to be carried on by his young disciple Fra Filippo Campello,
whom we shall meet with again in the chapter on Santa Chiara. Little,
therefore, as we know of this earlier portion of its history, San
Francesco at least remains to us in all its first prime and glory to
tell its own tale, and endless should be the hymn of praise sung by
the Assisans for the chance which brought so beautiful a creation
within their walls.

It seems indeed strange that a style so new and so admired, was not
more faithfully adhered to at a time when cathedrals and churches were
being erected in every Italian city. Perhaps the Romanesque and
Byzantine influences from the south so tempered the Gothic tendencies
of Lombard architects, that they were unable to attain the true ideal,
and succeeded only in creating a style of their own, to be found at
Florence, Siena and Orvieto, known as Italian Gothic. Thus it happens
that the Assisans are the proud possessors, not only of the first
Gothic church built in Italy during the dawn of the new era, but of a
church which is unique, as recalling less dimly than those of other
cities the splendour of the northern cathedrals.

       *       *       *       *       *

The rapidity with which the Assisan Basilica progressed is one of the
most wonderful results of the love inspired by St. Francis among
mediæval Christians. The generosity of the Catholic world was so
stirred that donations poured in without ceasing from Germany and
France, and even from Jerusalem and Morocco. "Cardinals, bishops,
dukes, princes, counts and barons," write the chroniclers, helped
Elias in his work, while the people of Umbria, too poor to give money,
came in numbers, out of the reverence they bore the Saint, to work for
small and often for no wages. It was a busy time; and Assisi awoke to
a sense of her importance. Under the vigilant eye of Elias, armies of
masons and labourers worked as unremittingly as ants at a nest, while
processions of carts drawn by white oxen, went ever to and fro upon
the road leading to the quarries, bringing creamy-white, rose and
golden-coloured blocks of Subasian stone.

This universal enthusiasm enabled Elias to complete the Lower Church
in twenty-two months, while the Upper Church was roofed in six years
later, and finished in all essential details by 1253. But while Elias
was applauded by most people, a few of the franciscans, headed by Fra
Leo, still clung to the letter of the franciscan rule, and bitterly
disapproved of these innovations. They sorrowfully looked on at the
army of workers, raising, as if by magic, walls and colonnades upon
the hill-side and towers ever higher against the sky. They watched
blocks of marble and stone being chiselled into cornices, friezes and
capitals ornamented with foliage and flowers, until, with despair in
their hearts, they slowly returned to their mud huts in the plain. The
dreams of Francis were vanishing fast as the allegiance to the Lady
Poverty diminished. Now her shrine existed only in the Carceri, in San
Damiano and in the Portiuncula, where few sought her company, for all
eyes were turned towards the new Basilica. The words of the Master,
recorded faithfully in Leo's biography, were ever ringing in his ears:
"Set a good hedge round in lieu of a wall, as a sign of holy poverty
and humility ... build poor little cells of mud and wood, and other
cells where at times the brethren may pray and work to the gain of
virtue and the avoidance of sloth. Also cause small churches to be
built; they ought not to raise great churches for the sake of
preaching to the people, or for any other reason, for they will show
greater humility and give a better example by going to preach in other
churches. And if by chance prelates, clerics, religious or seculars
should come to these abodes, the poor houses, the little cells and
small churches will be better sermons and cause greater edification to
them than many words."[64]

No wonder that Leo and his friends watched Elias at his work with no
friendly eye, for between the mud huts which Francis had planned with
so much simplicity, and the massive Basilica and palatial convent,
stretched an infinite chasm, separating the old order from the new.

They were still more unhappy and scandalised when Elias, who had the
full permission of Gregory IX. for this innovation, placed a marble
vase outside San Francesco to receive the contributions of those
anxious to see the church quickly finished. A curious account is given
by a latin chronicler of the warfare which ensued between the
standard-bearers of the new and the old franciscan spirit: "Some
brothers of marvellous sanctity and purity went to Perugia to consult
Brother Egidio, a good and pious man, concerning the erection of so
large a building and the manner of collecting money, which seemed to
be expressly against the rule. And Brother Egidio answered them: "If
that building were to reach from Assisi to here [to Perugia] a little
corner would suffice for me to dwell in." And they having asked him
what he thought about the vase, he said, turning to Brother Leo: "If
thou considerest thyself already dead [to the world and its
persecutions] go and break it. But if thou livest, stay thy hand, for
perchance thou mayest not be able to bear the persecution of that
Brother Elias."[65] Hearing this, Brother Leo went with his companions
and broke the vase to pieces. Then Brother Elias, hearing this, had
them severely beaten by his servants, and drove them from Assisi in
great confusion. For this reason a great tumult arose among the
brethren. Because of these aforesaid excesses, and because Brother
Elias threatened the complete destruction of the rule, when the
brethren met in general Chapter they deprived him of the office of
Vicar General, and unanimously elected Brother John of Florence
[Giovanni Parenti]."[66]

But these murmurs were drowned in the din of public applause which
enabled Elias to work in his own way, unscrupulously dispersing every
difficulty without any reference to the rule of St. Francis.

He continued to be the presiding spirit at Assisi, and such was the
success of his untiring energy that by the month of May 1230, the
Lower Church of the Basilica was ready to receive the "most sacred
body" of the Saint, while the magnificent quarters in the adjoining
convent were ready for those friars who belonged to the moderate
party, and approved of the new order of things.

Pope Gregory was unable to visit Assisi at this time owing to
difficulties with his unruly Roman subjects, but he sent innumerable
indulgences, golden crosses studded with precious stones containing
relics of the true cross, vases of silver and gold, and a large sum of
money for the further advancement of the building. These generous
gifts were followed by a Brief, which in calmer moments the monks
might have viewed with irritation, declaring both Basilica and convent
to be immediately subject to the Holy See. The franciscan order was
fast becoming a Papal institution, to be patronised and ruled by
succeeding Pontiffs.

While Giovanni Parenti was preparing for the Conclave to be held in
the spacious rooms of the new convent, the wily Elias was holding
secret councils with the magistrates of the town as to ensuring the
safe conduct of the body of St. Francis to the Basilica. The number of
people continually arriving in anticipation of the coming ceremony
made them somewhat uneasy, and their doubts were carefully discussed
in the Communal Palace. They came to the conclusion that if the exact
place of the saint's sepulchre was known, there would always be the
danger of its being rifled by the citizens of neighbouring towns,
especially by the Perugians, whose partiality for relics was well
known. So a stratagem, most likely invented by the fertile brain of
Elias, was decided upon and succeeded admirably.

The friars and citizens, unconscious of the plot hatched in their
midst, were all eager for the day of the Translation. The Umbrians
left their towns empty to assist at the great spectacle, and their
number was so great, that, failing to find room within the walls of
Assisi, they wandered like droves of cattle on the hills above trying
to obtain a sight of the procession. It was a great day in the annals
of Assisi; outside the little church of San Giorgio a triumphal car,
drawn by a pair of magnificent oxen, their whiteness almost hidden
beneath purple draperies and their horns wreathed and garlanded with
flowers, stood waiting for the holy burden. Three Papal Legates and
Elias placed the heavy sarcophagus with their own hands upon the car,
covering it over with a piece of rich brocaded silk sent for the
occasion by the mother of King Louis of France. They kept close to the
car all the time, while the brethren, holding palms and torches,
formed a long procession followed by the bishops and their clergy, and
the Podesta with his retinue of crimson-robed priors. It was the month
of May, and from every garden and terrace the nobles and their ladies
showered flowers over the "sacred ark" as it was borne slowly up the
street amidst the deafening sound of trumpets and the cheers of the
populace. All that could be done to honour St. Francis had been
thought of; Gregory IX. had even composed a hymn to be sung on that
day in which the "Poverello" was compared to Christ. They were in the
midst of the hymn of praise and quite close to the new Basilica when
the heavy tramp of numerous armed men was suddenly heard; swiftly a
passage was made through the crowd, who for the moment fell back
amazed and powerless, while the soldiers hurried with the sarcophagus
into the church, closely followed by Elias, who promptly shut and
barred the door. After the first moment of surprise, a wild burst of
indignation arose from the thousands who were thus deprived of a
spectacle which they had come miles to see. They howled like wild
beasts baulked of their prey, banging at the doors of the church in
their fury; but silence reigned within, for Elias and his accomplices
were stealthily engaged in hiding the body of St. Francis in the very
bowels of the mountain, where for five centuries it remained unseen
and undisturbed.

Till far into the night the people continued to murmur; the bewildered
friars asked each other what this strange behaviour of Elias meant,
and the only people who preserved any appearance of calmness were
Messer il Podesta of Assisi and his priors, who smiled to see how well
the plot had worked. It was not long before the scandal reached the
ears of Pope Gregory. The enemies of Elias painted the story in
glowing colours, and the Pope expressed himself greatly shocked at
sacrilegious hands having been laid upon the holy body of the saint.
He blamed the magistrates for allowing such a tumult to arise, and
called upon them to give due explanation of their conduct within a
fortnight at the court of Rome under pain of their city being laid
under an interdict. The Pope's Brief caused consternation, and his
accusations of their ingratitude for past favour rankled deeply. We
are not told how the anger of the Pope was pacified, but no doubt both
Elias and the Podesta explained satisfactorily the reasons for so
strange a burial, as Assisi continued to enjoy the patronage of the
Holy See. The efforts of Elias to ensure the safety of the body of St.
Francis had been eminently successful, and Gregory could hardly fail
to pardon the unusual manner in which this had been obtained.

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