2014년 11월 24일 월요일

Windfalls, by (AKA Alpha of the Plough) 1

Windfalls, by (AKA Alpha of the Plough) 1


Windfalls, by (AKA Alpha of the Plough) Alfred George Gardiner



TO GWEN AND PHYLLIS

I think this book belongs to you because, if it can be said to be about
anything in particular--which it cannot--it is, in spite of its delusive
title, about bees, and as I cannot dedicate it to them, I offer it to
those who love them most.

[Illustration: 0013]




PREFACE

|In offering a third basket of windfalls from a modest orchard, it is
hoped that the fruit will not be found to have deteriorated. If that is
the case, I shall hold myself free to take another look under the
trees at my leisure. But I fancy the three baskets will complete the
garnering. The old orchard from which the fruit has been so largely
gathered is passing from me, and the new orchard to which I go has not
yet matured. Perhaps in the course of years it will furnish material for
a collection of autumn leaves.

[Illustration: 0015]

[Illustration: 0021]




JEMIMA

|I took a garden fork just now and went out to dig up the artichokes.
When Jemima saw me crossing the orchard with a fork he called a
committee meeting, or rather a general assembly, and after some joyous
discussion it was decided _nem. con_. that the thing was worth looking
into. Forthwith, the whole family of Indian runners lined up in single
file, and led by Jemima followed faithfully in my track towards the
artichoke bed, with a gabble of merry noises. Jemima was first into the
breach. He always is...

But before I proceed it is necessary to explain. You will have observed
that I have twice referred to Jemima in the masculine gender. Doubtless,
you said, "How careless of the printer. Once might be forgiven; but
twice----" Dear madam' (or sir), the printer is on this occasion
blameless. It seems incredible, but it's so. The truth is that Jemima
was the victim of an accident at the christening ceremony. He was one of
a brood who, as they came like little balls of yellow fluff out of the
shell, received names of appropriate ambiguity--all except Jemima. There
were Lob and Lop, Two Spot and Waddles, Puddle-duck and Why?, Greedy
and Baby, and so on. Every name as safe as the bank, equal to all
contingencies--except Jemima. What reckless impulse led us to call him
Jemima I forget. But regardless of his name, he grew up into a handsome
drake--a proud and gaudy fellow, who doesn't care twopence what you call
him so long as you call him to the Diet of Worms.

And here he is, surrounded by his household, who, as they gabble,
gobble, and crowd in on me so that I have to scare them off in order to
drive in the fork. Jemima keeps his eye on the fork as a good batsman
keeps his eye on the ball. The flash of a fork appeals to him like the
sound of a trumpet to the warhorse. He will lead his battalion through
fire and water in pursuit of it. He knows that a fork has some mystical
connection with worms, and doubtless regards it as a beneficent deity.
The others are content to grub in the new-turned soil, but he, with his
larger reasoning power, knows that the fork produces the worms and that
the way to get the fattest worms is to hang on to the fork. From the way
he watches it I rather fancy he thinks the worms come out of the fork.
Look at him now. He cocks his unwinking eye up at the retreating fork,
expecting to see large, squirming worms dropping from it, and Greedy
nips in under his nose and gobbles a waggling beauty. My excellent
friend, I say, addressing Jemima, you know both too much and too little.
If you had known a little more you would have had that worm; if you had
known a little less you would have had that worm. Let me commend to you
the words of the poet:=

```A little learning is a dangerous thing:

```Drink deep, or taste not the Pierian spring.

I've known many people like you, who miss the worm because they know too
much but don't know enough. Now Greedy----

But clear off all of you. What ho! there.... The scales!... Here is a
bumper root.... Jemima realises that something unusual has happened,
assembles the family, and discusses the mystery with great animation. It
is this interest in affairs that makes the Indian runners such agreeable
companions. You can never be lonely with a family of Indian runners
about. Unlike the poor solitary hens who go grubbing about the orchard
without an idea in their silly heads, these creatures live in a
perpetual gossip. The world is full of such a number of things that they
hardly ever leave off talking, and though they all talk together they
are so amiable about it that it makes you feel cheerful to hear them....
But here are the scales.... Five pound three ounces.... Now what do you
say to that, Jemima? Let us turn to and see if we can beat it.

The idea is taken up with acclamation, and as I resume digging I am
enveloped once more by the mob of ducks, Jemima still running dreadful
risks in his attachment to the fork. He is a nuisance, but it would be
ungracious to complain, for his days are numbered. You don't know it,
I said, but you are feasting to-day in order that others may feast
tomorrow. You devour the worm, and a larger and more cunning animal will
devour you. He cocks up his head and fixes me with that beady eye that
gleams with such artless yet searching intelligence.... You are right,
Jemima. That, as you observe, is only half the tale. You eat the worm,
and the large, cunning animal eats you, but--yes, Jemima, the crude
fact has to be faced that the worm takes up the tale again where Man the
Mighty leaves off:=

`````His heart is builded

```For pride, for potency, infinity,

```All heights, all deeps, and all immensities,

```Arrased with purple like the house of kings,

```_To stall the grey-rat, and the carrion-worm_

```_Statelily lodge..._=

I accept your reminder, Jemima. I remember with humility that I, like
you, am only a link in the chain of the Great Mother of Mysteries,
who creates to devour and devours to create. I thank you, Jemima. And
driving in the fork and turning up the soil I seized a large fat worm. I
present you with this, Jemima, I said, as a mark of my esteem...

[Illustration: 0024]

[Illustration: 0025]




ON BEING IDLE

|I have long laboured under a dark suspicion that I am an idle person.
It is an entirely private suspicion. If I chance to mention it in
conversation, I do not expect to be believed. I announce that I am
idle, in fact, to prevent the idea spreading that I am idle. The art
of defence is attack. I defend myself by attacking myself, and claim a
verdict of not guilty by the candour of my confession of guilt. I disarm
you by laying down my arms. "Ah, ah," I expect you to say. "Ah, ah, you
an idle person. Well, that is good." And if you do not say it I at least
give myself the pleasure of believing that you think it.

This is not, I imagine, an uncommon artifice. Most of us say things
about ourselves that we should not like to hear other people say about
us. We say them in order that they may not be believed. In the same way
some people find satisfaction in foretelling the probability of their
early decease. They like to have the assurance that that event is as
remote as it is undesirable. They enjoy the luxury of anticipating
the sorrow it will inflict on others. We all like to feel we shall be
missed. We all like to share the pathos of our own obsequies. I remember
a nice old gentleman whose favourite topic was "When I am gone." One day
he was telling his young grandson, as the child sat on his knee,
what would happen when he was gone, and the young grandson looked up
cheerfully and said, "When you are gone, grandfather, shall I be at
the funeral?" It was a devastating question, and it was observed that
afterwards the old gentleman never discussed his latter end with his
formidable grandchild. He made it too painfully literal.

And if, after an assurance from me of my congenital idleness, you were
to express regret at so unfortunate an affliction I should feel as sad
as the old gentleman. I should feel that you were lacking in tact, and
I daresay I should take care not to lay myself open again to such
_gaucherie_. But in these articles I am happily free from this niggling
self-deception. I can speak the plain truth about "Alpha of the Plough"
without asking for any consideration for his feelings. I do not care how
he suffers. And I say with confidence that he is an idle person. I was
never more satisfied of the fact than at this moment. For hours he has
been engaged in the agreeable task of dodging his duty to _The Star_.

It began quite early this morning--for you cannot help being about
quite early now that the clock has been put forward--or is it back?--for
summer-time. He first went up on to the hill behind the cottage, and
there at the edge of the beech woods he lay down on the turf, resolved
to write an article _en plein air_, as Corot used to paint his
pictures--an article that would simply carry the intoxication of
this May morning into Fleet Street, and set that stuffy thoroughfare
carolling with larks, and make it green with the green and dappled
wonder of the beech woods. But first of all he had to saturate himself
with the sunshine. You cannot give out sunshine until you have taken it
in. That, said he, is plain to the meanest understanding. So he took it
in. He just lay on his back and looked at the clouds sailing serenely in
the blue. They were well worth looking at--large, fat, lazy, clouds
that drifted along silently and dreamily, like vast bales of wool being
wafted from one star to another. He looked at them "long and long" as
Walt Whitman used to say. How that loafer of genius, he said, would have
loved to lie and look at those woolly clouds.

And before he had thoroughly examined the clouds he became absorbed in
another task. There were the sounds to be considered. You could not
have a picture of this May morning without the sounds. So he began
enumerating the sounds that came up from the valley and the plain on the
wings of the west wind. He had no idea what a lot of sounds one could
hear if one gave one's mind to the task seriously. There was the thin
whisper of the breeze in the grass on which he lay, the breathings of
the woodland behind, the dry flutter of dead leaves from a dwarf beech
near by, the boom of a bumble-bee that came blustering past, the song of
the meadow pipit rising from the fields below, the shout of the cuckoo
sailing up the valley, the clatter of magpies on the hillside, the
"spink-spink" of the chaffinch, the whirr of a tractor in a distant
field, the crowing of a far-off cock, the bark of a sheep dog, the ring
of a hammer reverberating from a remote clearing in the beech woods,
the voices of children who were gathering violets and bluebells in the
wooded hollow on the other side of the hill. All these and many other
things he heard, still lying on his back and looking at the heavenly
bales of wool. Their dreaminess affected him; their billowy softness
invited to slumber....

When he awoke he decided that it was too late to start an article then.
Moreover, the best time to write an article was the afternoon, and
the best place was the orchard, sitting under a cherry tree, with the
blossoms falling at your feet like summer snow, and the bees about you
preaching the stern lesson of labour. Yes, he would go to the bees. He
would catch something of their fervour, their devotion to duty. They did
not lie about on their backs in the sunshine looking at woolly clouds.
To them, life was real, life was earnest. They were always "up and
doing." It was true that there were the drones, impostors who make ten
times the buzz of the workers, and would have you believe they do all
the work because they make most of the noise. But the example of these
lazy fellows he would ignore. Under the cherry tree he would labour like
the honey bee.

But it happened that as he sat under the cherry tree the expert came
out to look at the hives. She was quite capable of looking at the hives
alone, but it seemed a civil thing to lend a hand at looking. So he put
on a veil and gloves and went and looked. It is astonishing how time
flies when you are looking in bee-hives. There are so many things to do
and see. You always like to find the queen, for example, to make sure
that she is there, and to find one bee in thousands, takes time. It took
more time than usual this afternoon, for there had been a tragedy in one
of the hives. It was a nucleus hive, made up of brood frames from other
hives, and provided with a queen of our best breed. But no queen was
visible. The frames were turned over industriously without reward. At
last, on the floor of the hive, below the frames, her corpse was found.
This deepened the mystery. Had the workers, for some obscure reason,
rejected her sovereignty and killed her, or had a rival to the throne
appeared and given her her quietus? The search was renewed, and at last
the new queen was run to earth in the act of being fed by a couple of
her subjects. She had been hatched from a queen cell that had escaped
notice when the brood frames were put in and, according to the merciless
law of the hive, had slain her senior. All this took time, and before
he had finished, the cheerful clatter of tea things in the orchard
announced another interruption of his task.

And to cut a long story short, the article he set out to write in praise
of the May morning was not written at all. But perhaps this article
about how it was not written will serve instead. It has at least one
virtue. It exhales a moral as the rose exhales a perfume.

[Illustration: 0030]

[Illustration: 0031]




ON HABITS

|I sat down to write an article this morning, but found I could make
no progress. There was grit in the machine somewhere, and the wheels
refused to revolve. I was writing with a pen--a new fountain pen
that someone had been good enough to send me, in commemoration of an
anniversary, my interest in which is now very slight, but of which one
or two well-meaning friends are still in the habit of reminding me. It
was an excellent pen, broad and free in its paces, and capable of a most
satisfying flourish. It was a pen, you would have said, that could have
written an article about anything. You had only to fill it with ink and
give it its head, and it would gallop away to its journey's end without
a pause. That is how I felt about it when I sat down. But instead of
galloping, the thing was as obstinate as a mule. I could get no more
speed out of it than Stevenson could get out of his donkey in the
Cevennes. I tried coaxing and I tried the bastinado, equally without
effect on my Modestine.

Then it occurred to me that I was in conflict with a habit. It is my
practice to do my writing with a pencil. Days, even weeks, pass without
my using a pen for anything more than signing my name. On the other hand
there are not many hours of the day when I am without a pencil between
thumb and finger. It has become a part of my organism as it were, a mere
extension of my hand. There, at the top of my second finger, is a little
bump, raised in its service, a monument erected by the friction of a
whole forest of pencils that I have worn to the stump. A pencil is to
me what his sword was to D'Artagnan, or his umbrella was to the Duke
of Cambridge, or his cheroot was to Grant, or whittling a stick was to
Jackson or--in short, what any habit is to anybody. Put a pencil in my
hand, seat me before a blank writing pad in an empty room, and I am, as
they say of the children, as good as gold. I tick on as tranquilly as an
eight-day clock. I may be dismissed from the mind, ignored, forgotten.
But the magic wand must be a pencil. Here was I sitting with a pen
in my hand, and the whole complex of habit was disturbed. I was in an
atmosphere of strangeness. The pen kept intruding between me and my
thoughts. It was unfamiliar to the touch. It seemed to write a foreign
language in which nothing pleased me.

This tyranny of little habits which is familiar to all of us is nowhere
better described than in the story which Sir Walter Scott told to Rogers
of his school days. "There was," he said, "a boy in my class at school
who stood always at the top, nor could I with all my effort, supplant
him. Day came after day and still he kept his place, do what I would;
till at length I observed that, when a question was asked him, he always
fumbled with his fingers at a particular button in the lower part of his
waistcoat. To remove it, therefore, became expedient in my eye, and in
an evil moment it was removed with a knife. Great was my anxiety to know
the success of my measure, and it succeeded too well. When the boy was
again questioned his fingers sought again for the button, but it was not
to be found. In his distress he looked down for it--it was to be seen no
more than to be felt. He stood confounded, and I took possession of his
place; nor did he ever recover it, or ever, I believe, suspect who was
the author of his wrong. Often in after-life has the sight of him
smote me as I passed by him, and often have I resolved to make him some
reparation; but it ended in good resolutions. Though I never renewed
my acquaintance with him, I often saw him, for he filled some inferior
office in one of the courts of law at Edinburgh. Poor fellow! I believe
he is dead, he took early to drinking."

It was rather a shabby trick of young Scott's, and all one can say in
regard to its unhappy consequences is that a boy so delicately balanced
and so permanently undermined by a trifle would in any case have come.
to grief in this rough world. There is no harm in cultivating habits,
so long as they are not injurious habits. Indeed, most of us are little
more than bundles of habits neatly done up in coat and trousers. Take
away our habits and the residuum would hardly be worth bothering about.
We could not get on without them. They simplify the mechanism of life.
They enable us to do a multitude of things automatically which, if we
had to give fresh and original thought to them each time, would make
existence an impossible confusion. The more we can regularise our
commonplace activities by habit, the smoother our path and the more
leisure we command. To take a simple case. I belong to a club, large but
not so large as to necessitate attendants in the cloakroom. You hang up
your own hat and coat and take them down when you want them. For a long
time it was my practice to hang them anywhere where there was a vacant
hook and to take no note of the place. When I sought them I found it
absurdly difficult to find them in the midst of so many similar hats and
coats. Memory did not help me, for memory refused to burden itself with
such trumpery things, and so daily after lunch I might be seen wandering
forlornly and vacuously between the rows and rows of clothes in search
of my own garments murmuring, "Where _did_ I put my hat?" Then one day a
brilliant inspiration seized me. I would always hang my coat and hat on
a certain peg, or if that were occupied, on the vacant peg nearest to
it. It needed a few days to form the habit, but once formed it worked
like a charm. I can find my hat and coat without thinking about finding
them. I go to them as unerringly as a bird to its nest, or an arrow to
its mark. It is one of the unequivocal triumphs of my life.

But habits should be a stick that we use, not a crutch to lean on. We
ought to make them for our convenience or enjoyment and occasionally
break them to assert our independence. We ought to be able to employ
them, without being discomposed when we cannot employ them. I once
saw Mr Balfour so discomposed, like Scott's school rival, by a trivial
breach of habit. Dressed, I think, in the uniform of an Elder Brother of
Trinity House he was proposing a toast at a dinner at the Mansion House.
It is his custom in speaking to hold the lapels of his coat. It is the
most comfortable habit in speaking, unless you want to fling your arms
about in a rhetorical fashion. It keeps your hands out of mischief
and the body in repose. But the uniform Mr Balfour was wearing had no
lapels, and when the hands went up in search of them they wandered about
pathetically like a couple of children who had lost their parents on
Blackpool sands. They fingered the buttons in nervous distraction, clung
to each other in a visible access of grief, broke asunder and resumed
the search for the lost lapels, travelled behind his back, fumbled with
the glasses on the table, sought again for the lapels, did everything
but take refuge in the pockets of the trousers. It was a characteristic
omission. Mr Balfour is too practised a speaker to come to disaster as
the boy in Scott's story did; but his discomfiture was apparent. He
struggled manfully through his speech, but all the time it was obvious
that he was at a loss what to do with his hands, having no lapels on
which to hang them.

I happily had a remedy for my disquietude. I put up my pen, took out
a pencil, and, launched once more into the comfortable rut of habit,
ticked away peacefully like the eight-day clock. And this is the (I
hope) pardonable result.

[Illustration: 0036]




IN DEFENCE OF WASPS

|It is time, I think, that some one said a good word for the wasp. He
is no saint, but he is being abused beyond his deserts. He has been
unusually prolific this summer, and agitated correspondents have been
busy writing to the newspapers to explain how you may fight him and how
by holding your breath you may miraculously prevent him stinging you.
Now the point about the wasp is that he doesn't want to sting you. He
is, in spite of his military uniform and his formidable weapon, not a
bad fellow, and if you leave him alone he will leave you alone. He is
a nuisance of course. He likes jam and honey; but then I am bound
to confess that I like jam and honey too, and I daresay those
correspondents who denounce him so bitterly like jam and honey. We
shouldn't like to be sent to the scaffold because we like jam and honey.
But let him have a reasonable helping from the pot or the plate, and he
is as civil as anybody. He has his moral delinquencies no doubt. He is
an habitual drunkard. He reels away, in a ludicrously helpless condition
from a debauch of honey and he shares man's weakness for beer. In the
language of America, he is a "wet." He cannot resist beer, and having
rather a weak head for liquor he gets most disgracefully tight and
staggers about quite unable to fly and doubtless declaring that he
won't go home till morning. I suspect that his favourite author is Mr
Belloc--not because he writes so wisely about the war, nor so waspishly
about Puritans, but because he writes so boisterously about beer.

This weakness for beer is one of the causes of his undoing. An empty
beer bottle will attract him in hosts, and once inside he never gets
out. He is indeed the easiest creature to deal with that flies on wings.
He is excessively stupid and unsuspicious. A fly will trust nobody
and nothing, and has a vision that takes in the whole circumference of
things; but a wasp will walk into any trap, like the country bumpkin
that he is, and will never have the sense to walk out the way he went
in. And on your plate he simply waits for you to squeeze his thorax. You
can descend on him as leisurely as you like. He seems to have no sight
for anything above him, and no sense of looking upward.

His intelligence, in spite of the mathematical genius with which he
fashions his cells, is contemptible, and Fabre, who kept a colony under
glass, tells us that he cannot associate entrance and exit. If his
familiar exit is cut off, it does not occur to him that he can go out by
the way he always comes in. A very stupid fellow.

If you compare his morals with those of the honey bee, of course, he
cuts a poor figure. The bee never goes on the spree. It avoids beer like
poison, and keeps decorously outside the house. It doesn't waste its
time in riotous living, but goes on ceaselessly working day and night
during its six brief weeks of life, laying up honey for the winter and
for future generations to enjoy. But the rascally fellow in the yellow
stripes just lives for the hour. No thought of the morrow for him, thank
you. Let us eat, drink, and be merry, he says, for to-morrow----. He
runs through his little fortune of life at top speed, has a roaring time
in August, and has vanished from the scene by late September, leaving
only the queen behind in some snug retreat to raise a new family of
20,000 or so next summer.

But I repeat that he is inoffensive if you let him alone. Of course, if
you hit him he will hit back, and if you attack his nest he will defend
it. But he will not go for you unprovoked as a bee sometimes will. Yet
he could afford this luxury of unprovoked warfare much better than
the bee, for, unlike the bee, he does not die when he stings. I feel
competent to speak of the relative dispositions of wasps and bees, for
I've been living in the midst of them. There are fifteen hives in the
orchard, with an estimated population of a quarter of a million bees
and tens of thousands of wasps about the cottage. I find that I am never
deliberately attacked by a wasp, but when a bee begins circling around
me I flee for shelter. There's nothing else to do. For, unlike the wasp,
the bee's hatred is personal. It dislikes you as an individual for some
obscure reason, and is always ready to die for the satisfaction of
its anger. And it dies very profusely. The expert, who has been taking
sections from the hives, showed me her hat just now. It had nineteen
stings in it, planted in as neatly as thorns in a bicycle tyre.

It is not only in his liking for beer that the wasp resembles man. Like
him, too, he is an omnivorous eater. If you don't pick your pears in the
nick of time he will devastate them nearly as completely as the starling
devastates the cherry tree. He loves butcher's meat, raw or cooked,
and I like to see the workman-like way in which he saws off his little
joint, usually fat, and sails away with it for home. But his real
virtue, and this is why I say a good word for him, is that he is a clean
fellow, and is the enemy of that unclean creature the fly, especially of
that supreme abomination, the blow fly. His method in dealing with it is
very cunning. I saw him at work on the table at lunch the other day. He
got the blow fly down, but did not kill it. With his mandibles he sawed
off one of the creature's wings to prevent the possibility of escape,
and then with a huge effort lifted it bodily and sailed heavily away.
And I confess he carried my enthusiastic approval with him. There goes a
whole generation of flies, said I, nipped in the bud.

And let this be said for him also: he has bowels of compassion. He will
help a fellow in distress.

Fabre records that he once observed a number of wasps taking food to
one that was unable to fly owing to an injury to its wings. This was
continued for days, and the attendant wasps were frequently seen to
stroke gently the injured wings.

There is, of course, a contra account, especially in the minds of those
who keep bees and have seen a host of wasps raiding a weak stock and
carrying the hive by storm. I am far from wishing to represent the wasp
as an unmitigated blessing. He is not that, and when I see a queen wasp
sunning herself in the early spring days I consider it my business to
kill her. I am sure that there will be enough without that one. But in
preserving the equilibrium of nature the wasp has its uses, and if we
wish ill to flies we ought to have a reasonable measure of tolerance for
their enemy.

[Illustration: 0040]

[Illustration: 0041]




ON PILLAR ROCK

|Those, we are told, who have heard the East a-calling "never heed
naught else." Perhaps it is so; but they can never have heard the call
of Lakeland at New Year. They can never have scrambled up the screes of
the Great Gable on winter days to try a fall with the Arrow Head and the
Needle, the Chimney and Kern Knotts Crack; never have seen the mighty
Pillar Rock beckoning them from the top of Black Sail Pass, nor the inn
lights far down in the valley calling them back from the mountains when
night has fallen; never have sat round the inn fire and talked of the
jolly perils of the day, or played chess with the landlord--and been
beaten--or gone to bed with the refrain of the climbers' chorus still
challenging the roar of the wind outside--=

```Come, let us tie the rope, the rope, the rope,

````Come, let us link it round, round, round.

```And he that will not climb to-day

````Why--leave him on the ground, the ground, the ground.=

If you have done these things you will not make much of the call of the
temple bells and the palm trees and the spicy garlic smells--least of
all at New Year. You will hear instead the call of the Pillar Rock and
the chorus from the lonely inn. You will don your oldest clothes and
wind the rope around you--singing meanwhile "the rope, the rope,"--and
take the night train, and at nine or so next morning you will step out
at that gateway of the enchanted land--Keswick. Keswick! Wastdale!...
Let us pause on the music of those words.... There are men to whom they
open the magic casements at a breath.

And at Keswick you call on George Abraham. It would be absurd to go
to Keswick without calling on George Abraham. You might as well go to
Wastdale Head without calling on the Pillar Rock. And George tells you
that of course he will be over at Wastdale on New Year's Eve and will
climb the Pillar Rock or Scafell Pinnacle with you on New Year's Day.

The trap is at the door, you mount, you wave adieus, and are soon
jolting down the road that runs by Derwentwater, where every object is
an old friend, whom absence only makes more dear. Here is the Bowder
Stone and there across the Lake is Causey Pike, peeping over the brow of
Cat Bells. (Ah! the summer days on Causey Pike, scrambling and picking
wimberries and waking the echoes of Grisedale.)

And there before us are the dark Jaws of Borrowdale and, beyond, the
billowy summits of Great Gable and Scafell. And all around are the rocky
sentinels of the valley. You know everyone and hail him by his name.
Perhaps you jump down at Lodore and scramble up to the Falls. Then on to
Rosthwaite and lunch.

And here the last rags of the lower world are shed. Fleet Street is
a myth and London a frenzied dream. You are at the portals of the
sanctuary and the great peace of the mountains is yours. You sling your
rucksack on your back and your rope over your shoulder and set out on
the three hours' tramp over Styhead Pass to Wastdale.

It is dark when you reach the inn yard for the way down is long and
these December days are short. And on the threshold you are welcomed by
the landlord and landlady--heirs of Auld Will Ritson--and in the flagged
entrance you see coils of rope and rucksacks and a noble array of
climbers' boots--boots that make the heart sing to look upon, boots that
have struck music out of many a rocky breast, boots whose missing nails
has each a story of its own. You put your own among them, don your
slippers, and plunge among your old companions of the rocks with jolly
greeting and pass words. What a mingled gathering it is--a master from a
school in the West, a jolly lawyer from Lancashire, a young clergyman, a
barrister from the Temple, a manufacturer from Nottingham, and so on.
But the disguises they wear to the world are cast aside, and the eternal
boy that refuses to grow up is revealed in all of them.

Who shall tell of the days and nights that follow?--of the songs that
are sung, and the "traverses" that are made round the billiard room and
the barn, of the talk of handholds and footholds on this and that famous
climb, of the letting in of the New Year, of the early breakfasts and
the departures for the mountains, of the nights when, tired and rich
with new memories, you all foregather again--save only, perhaps, the
jolly lawyer and his fellows who have lost their way back from Scafell,
and for whom you are about to send out a search party when they turn up
out of the darkness with new material for fireside tales.

Let us take one picture from many. It is New Year's Day--clear and
bright, patches of snow on the mountains and a touch of frost in the
air. In the hall there is a mob of gay adventurers, tying up ropes,
putting on putties, filling rucksacks with provisions, hunting for boots
(the boots are all alike, but you recognise them by your missing nails).
We separate at the threshold--this group for the Great Gable, that for
Scafell, ours, which includes George Abraham, for the Pillar Rock. It
is a two and a half hour's tramp thither by Black Sail Pass, and as
daylight is short there is no time to waste. We follow the water course
up the valley, splash through marshes, faintly veneered with ice, cross
the stream where the boulders give a decent foothold, and mount the
steep ascent of Black Sail. From the top of the Pass we look down lonely
Ennerdale, where, springing from the flank of the Pillar mountain,
is the great Rock we have come to challenge. It stands like a tower,
gloomy, impregnable, sheer, 600 feet from its northern base to its
summit, split on the south side by Jordan Gap that divides the High Man
or main rock from Pisgah, the lesser rock.

We have been overtaken by another party of three from the inn--one in
a white jersey which, for reasons that will appear, I shall always
remember. Together we follow the High Level Traverse, the track that
leads round the flank of the mountain to the top of Walker's Gully, the
grim descent to the valley, loved by the climber for the perils to which
it invites him. Here wre lunch and here we separate. We, unambitious
(having three passengers in our party of five), are climbing the East
face by the Notch and Slab route; the others are ascending by the New
West route, one of the more difficult climbs. Our start is here; theirs
is from the other side of Jordan Gap. It is not of our climb that I wish
to speak, but of theirs. In the old literature of the Rock you will find
the Slab and Notch route treated as a difficult feat; but to-day it is
held in little esteem.

With five on the rope, however, our progress is slow, and it is two
o'clock when we emerge from the chimney, perspiring and triumphant, and
stand, first of the year, on the summit of the Pillar Rock, where the
wind blows thin and shrill and from whence you look out over half the
peaks of Lakeland. We take a second lunch, inscribe our names in the
book that lies under the cairn, and then look down the precipice on the
West face for signs of our late companions. The sound of their voices
comes up from below, but the drop is too sheer to catch a glimpse
of their forms. "They're going to be late," says George Abraham--the
discoverer of the New West--and then he indicates the closing stages of
the climb and the slab where on another New Year's Day occurred the most
thrilling escape from death in the records of the Pillar rock--two men
falling, and held on the rope and finally rescued by the third. Of those
three, two, Lewis Meryon and the Rev. W. F. Wright, perished the next
year on the Grand Paradis. We dismiss the unhappy memory and turn
cheerfully to descend by Slingsby's Crack and the Old West route which
ends on the slope of the mountain near to the starting point of the New
West route.

The day is fading fast, and the moon that is rising in the East sheds
no light on this face of the great tower. The voices now are quite
distinct, coming to us from the left. We can almost hear the directions
and distinguish the speakers. "Can't understand why those lads are
cutting it so fine," says George Abraham, and he hastens our pace down
cracks and grooves and over ledges until we reach the screes and safety.
And now we look up the great cliff and in the gathering dusk one thing
is visible--a figure in a white jersey, with arms extended at full
stretch. There it hangs minute by minute as if nailed to the rocks.

[Illustration: 0047]

The party, then, are only just making the traverse from the chimney to
the right, the most difficult manoeuvre of the climb--a manoeuvre in
which one, he in the white jersey, has to remain stationary while his
fellows pass him. "This is bad," says George Abraham and he prepares
for a possible emergency. "Are you in difficulties? Shall we wait?" he
cries. "Yes, wait." The words rebound from the cliff in the still air
like stones. We wait and watch. We can see nothing but the white jersey,
still moveless; but every motion of the other climbers and every word
they speak echoes down the precipice, as if from a sounding board. You
hear the iron-shod feet of the climbers feeling about for footholds on
the ringing wall of rock. Once there is a horrible clatter as if both
feet are dangling over the abyss and scraping convulsively for a hold.
I fancy one or two of us feel a little uncomfortable as we look at
each other in silent comment. And all the time the figure in white, now
growing dim, is impaled on the face of the darkness, and the voices
come down to us in brief, staccato phrases. Above the rock, the moon is
sailing into the clear winter sky and the stars are coming out.

At last the figure in white is seen to move and soon a cheery "All
right" drops down from above. The difficult operation is over, the
scattered rocks are reached and nothing remains but the final slabs,
which in the absence of ice offer no great difficulty. Their descent by
the easy Jordan route will be quick. We turn to go with the comment that
it is perhaps more sensational to watch a climb than to do one.

And then we plunge over the debris behind Pisgah, climb up the Great
Doup, where the snow lies crisp and deep, until we reach the friendly
fence that has guided many a wanderer in the darkness down to the top of
Black Sail Pass. From thence the way is familiar, and two hours later we
have rejoined the merry party round the board at the inn.

In a few days it is all over. This one is back in the Temple, that one
to his office, a third to his pulpit, another to his mill, and all seem
prosaic and ordinary. But they will carry with them a secret music. Say
only the word "Wastdale" to them and you shall awake its echoes; then
you shall see their faces light up with the emotion of incommunicable
things. They are no longer men of the world; they are spirits of the
mountains.

[Illustration: 0049]

[Illustration: 0050]




TWO VOICES

|Yes," said the man with the big voice, "I've seen it coming for years.
Years."

"Have you?" said the man with the timid voice. He had taken his seat
on the top of the bus beside the big voice and had spoken of the tube
strike that had suddenly paralysed the traffic of London.

"Yes, years," said big voice, crowding as much modesty into the
admission as possible. "I'm a long-sighted man. I see things a long way
off. Suppose I'm a bit psychic. That's what I'm told. A bit psychic."

"Ah," said timid voice, doubtful, I thought, as to the meaning of the
word, but firm in admiring acceptance of whatever it meant.

"Yes, I saw it coming for years. Lloyd George--that's the man that
up to it before the war with his talk about the dukes and
property and things. I said then, 'You see if this don't make trouble.'
Why, his speeches got out to Russia and started them there. And now's
it's come back. I always said it would. I said we should pay for it."

"Did you, though?" observed timid voice--not questioningly, but as an
assurance that he was listening attentively.

"Yes, the same with the war. I see it coming for years--years, I did.
And if they'd taken my advice it' ud have been over in no time. In the
first week I said: 'What we've got to do is to build 1000 aeroplanes and
train 10,000 pilots and make 2000 torpedo craft.' That's what I said.
But was it done?"

"Of course not," said timid voice.

"I saw it all with my long sight. It's a way I have. I don't know why,
but there it is. I'm not much at the platform business--tub-thumping,
I call it--but for seeing things far off--well, I'm a bit psychic, you
know."

"Ah," said timid voice, mournfully, "it's a pity some of those talking
fellows are not psychic, too." He'd got the word firmly now.

"Them psychic!" said big voice, with scorn. "We know what they are.
You see that Miss Asquith is marrying a Roumanian prince. Mark my word,
he'll turn out to be a German, that's what he'll turn out to be. It's
German money all round. Same with these strikes. There's German money
behind them."

"Shouldn't wonder at all," said timid voice.

"I know," said big voice. "I've a way of seeing things. The same in the
Boer War. I saw that coming for years."

"Did you, indeed?" said timid voice.

"Yes. I wrote it down, and showed it to some of my friends. There it
was in black and white. They said it was wonderful how it all turned
out--two years, I said, 250 millions of money, and 20,000 casualties.
That's what I said, and that's what it was. I said the Boers would win,
and I claim they did win, seeing old Campbell Bannerman gave them all
they asked for."

"You were about right," assented timid voice.

"And now look at Lloyd George. Why, Wilson is twisting him round his
finger--that's what he's doing. Just twisting him round his finger.
Wants a League of Nations, says Wilson, and then he starts building a
fleet as big as ours."

"Never did like that man," said timid voice.

"It's him that has let the Germans escape. That's what the armistice
means. They've escaped--and just when we'd got them down."

"It's a shame," said timid voice.

"This war ought to have gone on longer," continued big voice. "My
opinion is that the world wanted thinning out. People are too crowded.
That's what they are--they're too crowded."

"I agree there," said timid voice. "We wanted thinning."

"I consider we haven't been thinned out half enough yet. It ought to
have gone on, and it would have gone on but for Wilson. I should like to
know his little game. 'Keep your eye on Wilson,' says _John Bull_, and
that's what I say. Seems to me he's one of the artful sort. I saw a case
down at Portsmouth. Secretary of a building society--regular
chapel-goer, teetotaller, and all that. One day the building society
went smash, and Mr Chapel-goer had got off with the lot."

"I don't like those goody-goody people," said timid voice.

"No," said big voice. "William Shakespeare hit it oh. Wonderful what
that man knew. 'All the world's a stage, and all the men and women
players,' he said. Strordinary how he knew things."

"Wonderful," said timid voice.

"There's never been a man since who knew half what William Shakespeare
knew--not one-half."

"No doubt about it," said timid voice.

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