2015년 4월 28일 화요일

Common Sense in the Household 18

Common Sense in the Household 18


MUTTON HAM.
 
For a leg of mutton weighing 12 lbs., take
 
1 ounce of black pepper, or ½ ounce of cayenne,
¼ lb. brown sugar,
1 ounce saltpetre,
1¼ lb. salt.
 
The day after the sheep is killed, mix the sugar, pepper, and
saltpetre, and rub well into the meat for nearly fifteen minutes, until
the outer part of it is thoroughly impregnated with the seasoning. Put
the ham into a large earthenware vessel, and cover it with the salt.
Let it remain thus for three weeks, turning it every day and basting
it with the brine; adding to this, after the first week, a teacupful
of vinegar. When the ham is removed from the pickle, wash with cold
water, then with vinegar, and hang it up in a cool cellar for a week,
at least, before it is used.
 
Soak an hour in fair water before boiling.
 
Or if you choose to smoke it for several days after it is corned, it
can be chipped and eaten raw, like jerked venison or dried beef.
 
Most of the receipts above given will apply as well to lamb as to
mutton. There are several exceptions, however, which you will do well
to note. Lamb should never be boiled except in stews. It is tasteless
and sodden cooked in this manner, on account of its immaturity. But, on
the other hand, a lamb-pie, prepared like one of beef or venison, is
excellent, while mutton-pies have usually a strong, tallowy taste, that
spoils them for delicate palates.
 
Roast lamb should be eaten with mint sauce (if you fancy it), currant
jelly, and asparagus or green peas. Lettuce-salad is likewise a
desirable accompaniment.
 
 
MUTTON OR LAMB RÉCHAUFFÉ.
 
Cut some slices of cold underdone mutton or lamb; put them in a
frying-pan with enough gravy or broth to cover them. Or, if you have
neither of them, make a gravy of butter, warm water, and catsup. Heat
to boiling, and stir in pepper and a great spoonful of currant jelly.
Send to table in a chafing-dish, with the gravy poured about the meat.
 
 
_Or,_
 
You can put a lump of the butter in the bottom of the pan, and when it
boils, lay in the slices of meat, turning them before they have time
to crisp. As soon as they are thoroughly heated take them out, lay
upon a hot dish, sprinkle with pepper and salt, and serve with a small
spoonful of jelly laid upon each.
 
 
 
VEAL.
 
Despite the prejudice, secret or expressed, which prevails in many
minds against veal,one which the wise and witty “Country Parson”
has as surely fostered among reading people, as did Charles Lamb the
partiality for roast pig,the excellent and attractive dishes that
own this as their base are almost beyond number. For soups it is
invaluable, and in _entrees_ and _réchauffés_ it plays a distinguished
part. From his head to his feet, the animal that furnishes us with
this important element of success in what should be the prime object
of cookery, to wit, to please while we nourish, has proved himself
so useful as an ally that it behooves us to lift the stigma from the
name of “calf,” provided he be not _too_ infantine. In that case he
degenerates into an insipid mass of pulpy muscle and gelatine, and
deserves the bitterest sneers that have been flung at his kind.
 
 
ROAST VEAL.
 
 
LOIN.
 
Veal requires a longer time to roast than mutton or lamb. It is fair to
allow _at least_ a quarter of an hour to each pound. Heat gradually,
baste frequentlyat first with salt and water, afterward with gravy.
When the meat is nearly done, dredge lightly with flour, and baste once
with melted butter. Skim the gravy; thicken with a tablespoonful of
flour, boil up, and put into the gravy-boat.
 
Should the meat brown too fast, cover with white paper. The juices,
which make up the characteristic flavor of meat, are oftener dried out
of veal than any other flesh that comes to our tables.
 
 
BREAST.
 
Make incisions between the ribs and the meat, and fill with a
force-meat made of fine bread-crumbs, bits of pork, or ham chopped
“exceeding small,” salt, pepper, thyme, sweet marjoram, and beaten egg.
Save a little to thicken the gravy. Roast slowly, basting often, and
the verdict of the eaters will differ from theirs who pronounce this
the coarsest part of the veal. Dredge, at the last, with flour, and
baste well once with butter, as with the loin.
 
 
FILLET.
 
Make ready a dressing of bread-crumbs, chopped thyme and parsley; a
little nutmeg, pepper and salt, rubbed together with some melted
butter or beef suet; moisten with milk or hot water, and bind with a
beaten egg.
 
Take out the bone from the meat, and pin securely into a round with
skewers; then pass a stout twine several times about the fillet, or
a band of muslin. Fill the cavity from which the bone was taken with
this stuffing, and thrust between the folds of the meat, besides making
incisions with a thin, sharp knife to receive it. Once in a while slip
in a strip of fat pork or ham. Baste at first with salt and water,
afterward with gravy. At the last, dredge with flour and baste with
butter.
 
 
SHOULDER.
 
Stuff as above, making horizontal incisions near the bone to receive
the dressing, and roast in like manner.
 
 
VEAL CUTLETS.
 
Dip in beaten egg when you have sprinkled a little pepper and salt over
them; then roll in cracker-crumbs, and fry in hot dripping or lard. If
you use butter or dripping, add a little boiling water to the gravy
when the meat is dished; thicken with browned flour, boil up once,
sending to table in a boat.
 
 
_Or,_
 
You can rub the cutlets well with melted butter, pepper, and broil on a
gridiron like beef-steak, buttering _very_ well after dishing.
 
 
VEAL CHOPS
 
Are more juicy and less apt to be tough and solid than cutlets. Trim
the bone as with mutton chops, and fry, dipping in beaten egg and
cracker-crumbs. Add a little parsley and a minced shallot to the gravy.
 
 
VEAL STEAK.
 
This should be thinner than beef-steak, and be done throughout. Few
persons are fond of rare veal. Broil upon a well-greased gridiron
over a clear fire, and turn frequently while the steaks are cooking.
Put into a saucepan four or five young onions minced fine, a great
teaspoonful of tomato catsup, or twice the quantity of stewed tomato,
a lump of butter the size of an egg, and a little thyme or parsley,
with a small teacupful of hot water. Let them stew together while the
steaks are broiling, thickening, before you turn the gravy out, with a
spoonful of browned flour. Add, if you please, a half-glass of wine.
Boil up once hard, and when the steaks are dished, with a small bit of
butter upon each, pour the mixture over and around them.
 
Spinach is as natural an accompaniment to veal as are green peas to
lamb.
 
 
VEAL PIES.
 
Let your veal be juicy and not too fat. Take out all the bone, and put
with the fat and refuse bits, such as skin or gristle, in a saucepan,
with a large teacupful of cold water to make gravy. Instead of chopping
the veal, cut in thin, even slices. Line a pudding-dish with a good
paste and put a layer of veal in the bottom; then one of hard-boiled
eggs sliced, each piece buttered and peppered before it is laid upon
the veal; cover these with sliced ham or thin strips of salt pork.
Squeeze a few drops of lemon-juice upon the ham. Then another layer of
veal, and so on until you are ready for the gravy. This should have
been stewing for half an hour or so, with the addition of pepper and a
bunch of aromatic herbs. Strain through a thin cloth and pour over the
pie. Cover with crust and bake two hours.
 
 
_Or,_
 
Butter a large bowl very thickly, and line with sliced hard-boiled
eggs. Then put in, in perpendicular layers, a lining of veal cut in
thin slices, and seasoned with pepper. Next, one of sliced ham, each
slice peppered and sprinkled with lemon-juice, more veal and more ham,
until the dish is packed to the brim. Cover with a thick paste made of
flour and hot water, just stiff enough to handle with ease. Press this
closely to the outside of the bowl, which should not be at all greasy.
Let it overlap the rim about half an inch. Some cooks substitute a
cloth well floured, but it does not keep in the essence of the meats
as well as the paste. Set the bowl in a pot of hot water, not so deep
that it will bubble over the top. It is better that it should not touch
the paste rim. Boil steadilynot hardfor at least three hours. Remove
the paste the next day, when bowl and contents are perfectly cold,
and turn out the pie into a large plate or flat dish. Cut in circular
slicesthin as a waferbeginning at the top, keeping your carver
horizontal, and you have a delicious relish for the supper-table, or
side-dish for dinner. Set in a cool place, and in winter it will keep several days.
  

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