2015년 4월 28일 화요일

Common Sense in the Household 41

Common Sense in the Household 41


SUMMER SQUASH OR CYMBLING.
 
There are many varieties of this vegetable, but the general rules
for cooking them are the same. Unless they are extremely tender, it
is best to pare them, cutting away as little as possible besides the
hard outer rind. Take out the seeds, when you have quartered them,
and lay the pieces in cold water. Boil until tender throughout. Drain
well, pressing out all the water; mash soft and smooth, seasoning with
butter, pepper, and salt. Do this quickly, that you may serve up hot.
 
 
WINTER SQUASH.
 
Pare, take out the seeds, cut into small pieces, and stew until soft
and tender. Drain, press well, to rid it of all the water, and mash
with butter, pepper, and salt. It will take much longer to cook than
the summer squash, and before you put it into hot water, should lie in
cold at least two hours.
 
 
STEWED PUMPKIN.
 
Cut in two, extract the seeds, slice, and pare. Cover with cold
water for an hour; put over the fire in a pot of boiling water and
stew gently, stirring often, until it breaks to pieces. Drain and
squeeze, rub through a cullender, then return to the saucepan with a
tablespoonful of butter, pepper, and salt to taste. Stir rapidly from
the bottom until very hot, when dish, rounding into a mound, with
“dabs” of pepper on the top.
 
 
BAKED PUMPKIN.
 
Choose the richest pumpkin you can find; take out the seeds, cut in
quarters or eighths, pare, and slice lengthwise half an inch thick.
Arrange in layersnot more than two or three slices deepin a shallow
but broad baking-dish. Put a _very_ little water in the bottom, and
bake very slowly until not only done, but dry. It requires a long
time, for the heat should be gentle. Butter each strip on both sides
when you dish, and eat hot with bread and butter for tea.
 
I have been assured, by people who have tried it, that this is a
palatable dish to those who are fond of the flavor of pumpkin. I insert
it here upon their recommendationnot my own.
 
 
POKE STALKS.
 
When the young stalks are not larger than a man’s little finger, and
show only a tuft of leaves at top a few inches above ground, is the
time to gather them. They are unfit for table-use when larger and
older. Scrape the stalks, but do not cut off the leaves. Lay in cold
water, with a little salt, for two hours. Tie in bundles, as you
do asparagus, put into a saucepan of boiling water, and cook fast
three-quarters of an hour. Lay buttered toast in the bottom of a
dish, untie the bundles, and pile the poke evenly upon it, buttering
very well, and sprinkling with pepper and salt. This is a tolerable
substitute for asparagus.
 
 
MUSHROOMS.
 
_Imprimis._Have nothing to do with them until you are an excellent
judge between the true and false. That sounds somewhat like the advice
of the careful mother to her son, touching the wisdom of never going
near the water until he learned how to swimbut the caution can hardly
be stated too strongly. Not being ambitious of martyrdom, even in the
cause of gastronomical enterprise, especially if the instrument is to
be a contemptible, rank-smelling fungus, I never eat or cook native
mushrooms; but I learned, years ago, in hill-side rambles, how to
distinguish the real from the spurious article. Shun low, damp, shady
spots in your quest. The good mushrooms are most plenty in August
and September, and spring up in the open, sunny fields or commons,
after low-lying fogs or soaking dews. The top is a dirty white,_par
complaisance_, pearl-color,the under side pink or salmon, changing to
russet or brown soon after they are gathered. The poisonous sport all
colors, and are usually far prettier than their virtuous kindred. Those
which are dead-white above and below, as well as the stalk, are also to
be let alone.
 
Cook a peeled white onion in the pot with your mushrooms. If it turn
black, throw all away, and be properly thankful for your escape. It is
also deemed safe to reject the mess of wild pottage, if in stirring
them, your silver spoon should blacken. But I certainly once knew a
lady who did not discover until hers were eaten and partially digested,
that the silver had come to grief in the discharge of duty. It was
very dark, and required a deal of rubbing to restore cleanliness and
polish; but the poisonif death were, indeed, in the potwas slow in
its effects, since she lived many years after the experiment. It is as
well perhaps, though, not to repeat it too often.
 
To re-capitulate.The eatable ones are round when they first show their
heads in a critical world. As they grow, the lower part unfolds a
lining of salmon fringe, while the stalk and top are dirty white. When
the mushroom is more than twenty-four hours old, or within a few hours
after it is gathered, the salmon changes to brown. The skin can also be
more easily peeled from the edges than in the spurious kinds.
 
 
STEWED MUSHROOMS.
 
Choose button mushrooms of uniform size. Wipe clean and white with
a wet flannel cloth, and cut off the stalks. Put into a porcelain
saucepan, cover with cold water, and stew very gently fifteen minutes.
Salt to taste; add a tablespoonful of butter, divided into bits and
rolled in flour. Boil three or four minutes; stir in three or four
tablespoonfuls of cream whipped up with an egg, stir two minutes
without letting it boil, and serve.
 
 
_Or,_
 
Rub them white, stew in water ten minutes; strain partially, and cover
with as much warm milk as you have poured off water; stew five minutes
in this; salt and pepper, and add some veal or chicken gravy, or drawn
butter. Thicken with a little flour wet in cold milk, and a beaten egg.
 
 
BAKED MUSHROOMS.
 
Take fresh ones,the size is not very important,cut off nearly all the
stalks, and wipe off the skin with wet flannel. Arrange neatly in a
pie-dish, pepper and salt, sprinkle a little mace among them, and lay a
bit of butter upon each. Bake about half an hour, basting now and then
with butter and water, that they may not be too dry. Serve in the dish
in which they were baked, with _maître d’hôtel_ sauce poured over them.
 
 
BROILED MUSHROOMS.
 
Peel the finest and freshest you can get, score the under side, and
cut the stems close. Put into a deep dish and anoint well, once and
again, with melted butter. Salt and pepper, and let them lie in the
butter an hour and a half. Then broil over a clear, hot fire, using an
oyster-gridiron, and turning it over as one side browns. Serve hot,
well buttered, pepper and salt, and squeeze a few drops of lemon-juice
upon each.
 
 
CELERY.
 
Wash and scrape the stalks when you have cut off the roots. Cut off
the green leaves and reject the greenest, toughest stalks. Retain the
blanched leaves that grow nearest the heart. Keep in cold water until
you send to table. Serve in a celery glass, and let each guest dip in
salt for himself. (_See Celery Salad._)
 
 
STEWED CELERY.
 
1 bunch of celeryscraped, trimmed, and cut into inch lengths.
1 cup milk.
1 great spoonful of butter, rolled in flour.
Pepper and salt.
 
Stew the celery in clear water until tender. Turn off the water, add
the milk, and as soon as this boils, seasoning and butter. Boil up once
and serve very hot.
 
 
RADISHES.
 
A friend of mine, after many and woful trials with “the greatest plague
of life,” engaged a supercilious young lady who “only hired out in the
best of families as a professed cook.” She arrived in the afternoon,
and was told that tea would be a simple affairbread-and-butter, cold
meat, cake, and a dish of radishes, which were brought in from the
garden as the order was given. The lady was summoned to the parlor
at that moment, and remarked in leaving“You can prepare those now,
Bridget.” Awhile later she peeped into the kitchen, attracted by the
odor of hot fat. The frying-pan hissed on the fire, the contents were a
half-pound of butter, and the “professional” stood at the table with a
radish topped and tailed in one hand, a knife in the other. “I’m glad
to see ye,” thus she greeted the intruder. “Is it paled or _on_paled
ye’ll have them radishes? Some of the quality likes ’em fried wid the
skins onsome widout. I thought I’d wait and ask yerself.”
 
My readers can exercise their own choice in the matter of peeling,
putting the frying out of the question. Wash and lay them in ice-water
so soon as they are gathered. Cut off the tops when your breakfast or
supper is ready, leaving about an inch of the stalks on; scrape off
the skin if you choose, but the red ones are prettier if you do not;
arrange in a tall glass or a round glass saucer, the stalks outside,
the points meeting in the centre; lay cracked ice among them and send
to table. Scrape and quarter the large white ones.
 
Good radishes are crisp to the teeth, look cool, and taste hot.
 
 
OKRA.
 
Boil the young pods, in enough salted hot water to cover them, until
tender. Drain thoroughly, and when dished pour over them a sauce of
three or four spoonfuls melted (not drawn) butter, a tablespoonful of
vinegar, pepper, and salt to taste. Heat to boiling before covering the okras with it.

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