2014년 9월 3일 수요일

The Story of Perugia 3

The Story of Perugia 3


The news of Braccio's death caused the utmost consternation in Perugia.
If the great captain had saved the town at a critical point, he may also
be said to have created a situation which was perhaps a still more
critical one for her citizens. Braccio was a noble. With his advent in
Perugia the party of the nobles had returned. Terrible things were in
store for the city. For a little while, and partly through the efforts
of a rather complicated personality, they were postponed, but the time
of terror was at hand.

When Braccio died at Aquila, the Perugians prepared to defend themselves
they knew not well from what. "Each man," says Graziani, "furnished
himself with flour, the ditches and walls were repaired both of the city
and the territory around it, and every one left the open country and
took refuge in fortresses and city palaces." Two courses lay open to
them, and of the two they selected that which seemed least evil. They
submitted themselves once more to the power of the Pope; and on July
29th, 1424, the delighted Martin entered Perugia as its acknowledged
lord and ruler.

Like many famous people of that day Martin had studied at the Perugian
University, and perhaps he had preserved an affection for the city which
he had known in his youth. Anyhow, the terms of peace which he concluded
with the citizens were very mild, and as usual, all the privileges
obtained from Innocent III. were preserved. But this time it was through
the _nobles_ that the Pope had been called into the city. The thin end
of the wedge was surely and irretrievably driven in, and the power of
the nobles was as a matter of fact secure. The Pope himself fostered the
growing power, and amongst others, who on the occasion of his advent
received rich possessions from him, was Malatesta Baglioni. Martin
handed Spello over to his rule, and thus helped to enrich a family whose
members were for a period to wrest the power from the Church itself, and
to set the town ablaze with crime and bloodshed.

       *       *       *       *       *

The nobles remained at the head of affairs, but, as we have said, there
was one strong personality--a Perugian citizen, Niccolo Piccinino--who
made a last effort, as Braccio Fortebraccio and Michelotti had done
before him, to become that strange creation of the day: a _condottiere_
despot.

Niccolo Piccinino was a follower of Braccio di Montone, and his name
remains stamped on the pages of history for successfully leading the
Braccian troops to battle, and following out the famous tactics of his
master. For twenty years Piccinino maintained a constant rivalry with
Francesco Sforza, as Braccio Fortebraccio had done before him with
Attendolo Sforza, the ancestor of a line of dukes. The ancestry of
Niccolo is both humble and obscure.[21] Some tell us he was the son of a
Perugian butcher, others say, of a peasant from Calisciana near the
city, but it is difficult to get any satisfactory information about him;
he was practically little beyond an adventurer. As quite a boy he left
his home in the Umbrian hills, and started out to seek his fortune
amongst the captains of adventure in the north. Later in life his career
became closely linked with that of Fortebraccio, who loved him because
of his bravery and enthusiasm for the soldier's career. Nature had not
fitted Niccolo for the camp. His health was bad, he was paralysed in one
leg and had to be lifted on to his horse, and because of his miniature
figure he got the nickname of "Piccinino" (the Tiny One); but the small
body contained an undaunted spirit, and his tactics in the field were
quick and decisive. He never knew when he was beaten, but would turn to
strike again while the enemy were boasting of their victory. On one
occasion Piccinino crept into a sack and had himself carried across the
battlefield on a man's shoulder. The enemy (probably Francesco Sforza)
imagined him to be at that moment in an opposite direction, and the
sudden appearance of Piccinino's head from out of the sack, his piercing
eyes gazing at them over his carrier's back, caused general
consternation among the soldiers. Whether this strange manoeuvre won
the day history does not record.

In 1440 Piccinino made a desperate effort to win for himself the
government of Perugia, but Papal power was too deeply rooted in the
city, and he had to rest content with the title of _Gonfaloniere of the
Holy Church_--Supreme Magistrate of the City but acting in the Pope's
name.

Perugia had a terrible time under this ecclesiastical and military yoke.
Three masters pulled her different

[Illustration: NICCOLO PICCININO]

ways: Piccinino, the Pope, and the nobles, and each of these three
imposed taxes for their different uses. Piccinino's is an unsatisfactory
career. It is that of a man pouring old wine into new bottles; the trade
of the _condottiere_ ruler was practically dead. The Pope's tactics were
unsatisfactory also. He tried to conciliate two parties. He encouraged
and patronised the nobles and pandered to the populace by encouraging
all kinds of extravagant superstition. There is a horrid tale about the
burning of a witch at this time; and religious processions assumed such
monstrous length that the streets could hardly hold them, and we read
that the leading men got entangled in the tail of the procession which
had not been able to leave the piazza before those who had left it long
ago returned to the starting-point. Passion-preaching, too, became the
fashion, accompanied by grotesque miracle-plays in which a barber from
S. Angelo represented our Saviour; and all those things only served to
increase the morbid passions of the people. In this complicated
situation the nobles came off best, and their power grew and
strengthened rapidly; but the power was evil. As for the attitude
assumed by the former rulers of the city, it is difficult to judge. A
sort of stupor seems to have fallen on the hitherto vigilant _Priori_. A
feeble effort was made in 1444 to drive out the tormentors by payment of
a large sum of money to mercenary soldiers, but these only took the pay
and continued to enjoy themselves at the expense of the town.

Hitherto, at least, the nobles had been one party, fighting for one
cause. But now that the cause was won, now that their own supremacy had
been attained, they began to fight amongst themselves. They hated each
other with a mortal hatred. We no longer hear of fights between nobles
and burghers, but of passionate blood-feuds between the nobles
themselves: between the Oddi, Corgna, Staffa, Arciprete, Baglioni, and
others, and next we read of cousins murdering each other for the sake of
mere ambition. The slightest pretext is seized upon for a skirmish
between the men who, through centuries, had stood together in opposition
to the outside world. A hundred instances are given of their quarrels at
this period. The Della Corgna by way of an example, are one day
preparing to enhance the solemnity of a feast-day by decorating the Arco
dei Priori with box and laurel boughs, and are interrupted in their
pious labours by the Degli Oddi, who begin to pull down the decorations.
There is some dispute about precedence, in their quarter of the
city--some trifling question as to which family has most right to manage
the local festival, a bitter fight ensues, and the whole town is in a
tumult.

Again on another occasion, one of Ridolfo Baglioni's bastard sons wounds
a certain Naldino da Corciano, a friend of the Degli Oddi, and Naldino
hurries off to show his bleeding face to his allies. The Oddi, mad with
fury, rush all armed to the piazza, striking at every Baglioni adherent
whom they meet upon their way. The Baglioni are not slow to appear, as
ready for the fight as anybody. The shops are closed, the citizens arm
themselves, a procession wending its way to the Duomo is thrown into
utter disorder, and even the women thrust their heads out of the windows
and throw down jugs and tiles and pitchers into the street below. The
Bishop, the _Priori_, and the learned doctors of the law leave their
houses and exhort the nobles to lay down their arms; and after a while a
truce is obtained, and the hubbub for the time subsides.

Such scenes as these were of almost daily occurrence in the city, and it
was in vain that the Pope, both by foul means and by fair, attempted to
calm the frantic passions of the rivals.[22] It was in vain that S.
Bernardino, carrying his crucifix before him, came to preach of
brotherly love and unity, in vain the Blessed Colomba uttered mysterious
warnings. It was too late either for Pope or Saint to check so strong a
flood as the ambition of men like the Oddi and the Baglioni. All over
Italy at this period the character of individual families had grown too
strong for outer influences to crush it, and the heads of the Guelph
families were everywhere attempting to form themselves into ruling
princes. In the case of this struggle at Perugia the most successful of
the combatants were the Oddi and the Baglioni. The struggle between
them was a struggle unto death. Now one was driven from the city gates,
and now another; but finally, in 1488, the Oddi were ousted altogether,
and from that minute until the time when the great Farnese Pope came
down with guns and stones and every implement of war as well as curses,
to quell them, the members of the Baglioni family became the dominant
faction of the city. They left their country houses for ever. They fixed
their mighty eyries on the south side of the city, about where the
modern Prefettura stands to-day; from thence they dominated all the
town, and there they lived their wild ill-regulated lives, mingling the
most exquisite luxury with cruel vice. They were a splendid and a
beautiful race of men, and Italy rang with their great names, but their
rule was horrible.

"As I do not wish to swerve from the pure truth," says Matarazzo, who
himself adored them, "I say that from the day the Oddi were expelled our
city went from bad to worse. All the young men followed the trade of
arms. Their lives were disorderly; and every day divers excesses were
divulged, and the city had lost all reason and justice. Every man
administered right unto himself, _propria autoritate et manu regia_.
Meanwhile the Pope sent many legates, in order that the city might be
brought to order; but all who came returned in dread of being hewn in
pieces; for they threatened to throw some from the windows of the
palace, so that no cardinal or other legate durst approach Perugia,
unless he were a friend of the Baglioni. And the city was brought to
such misery that the most wrongous men were most prized; and those who
had slain two or three men walked as they listed through the palace, and
went with sword or poniard to speak to the podesta and other
magistrates. Moreover, every man of worth was downtrodden by _bravi_
whom the nobles favoured; nor could a citizen call his property his own.
The nobles robbed first one and then another of their goods and land.
All offices were sold or else suppressed; and taxes and extortions were
so grievous that every one cried out. And if a man were in prison for
his head, he had no reason to fear death, provided he had some interest
with a noble."

[Illustration: PALAZZO PUBBLICO]




CHAPTER III

_The Baglioni. Paul III. and last years of the City_


So after centuries of steady struggle fate had at last decreed that the
nobles should have their way. Because the way of the Baglioni is the
most picturesque point in all the annals of Perugia, because it was
crowned by one of the most horrible domestic tragedies of Italian
history, and because, moreover, it happens to have been so admirably and
so vividly recorded, we are sometimes inclined to regard it as the most
important fact about the town. We must, however, remember that it was
only one of the infinite points which make the city's history, and that
the rule of the Baglioni covers a period of not more than fifty years.

By a rare coincidence it happened that exactly at this period, _i.e._,
during the ascendency of the Baglioni, there was living in the city of
Perugia a scholar by name Matarazzo or Maturanzio.[23] This scholar took
upon himself to record day by day the extraordinary exploits of a family
in whose good looks and deeds of violence, their jousts and subterfuges,
he may be truly said not only to have delighted but to have revelled.
To understand the Baglioni and the fashion in which they were regarded
by the men of their day: terror, hatred, fear, and a cringing admiration
being pretty well mixed, one must study the chronicles of Matarazzo in
the original.[24] But as it would be impossible, and even impertinent
for us to try and retell the tale of this tragic history in new English
words, we have quoted at length the words of one who studied it
faithfully and recorded it with a strange vibrating echo of the original
language.[25] We have merely inserted here and there a few notes and
details which seemed to add to the narrative.

     "It is not until 1495 that the history of the Baglioni becomes
     dramatic, possibly because till then they lacked the pen of
     Matarazzo. But from this year forward to their final extinction,
     every detail of their doings has a picturesque and awful interest.
     Domestic furies, like the revel descried by Cassandra above the
     palace of Mycenæ, seem to take possession of the fated house; and
     the doom which has fallen on them is worked out with pitiless
     exactitude to the last generation. In 1495 the heads of the Casa
     Baglioni were two brothers, Guido and Ridolfo, who had a numerous
     progeny of heroic sons. From Guido sprang Astorre, Adriano--called
     for his great strength Morgante--Gismondo, Marcantonio, and
     Gentile. Ridolfo owned Troilo, Gianpaolo, and Simonetto. The first
     glimpse we get of these young athletes in Matarazzo's chronicle is
     on the occasion of a sudden assault upon Perugia made by the Oddi
     and the exiles of their faction in September 1495. The foes of the
     Baglioni entered the gates and began breaking the iron chains,
     _serragli_, which barred the streets against advancing cavalry.
     None of the noble house were on the alert except young Simonetto, a
     lad of eighteen, fierce and cruel, who had not yet begun to shave
     his chin. In spite of all dissuasion, he rushed forth alone,
     bareheaded, in his shirt, with a sword in his right hand and a
     buckler on his arm, and fought against a squadron. There at the
     barrier of the piazza he kept his foes at bay, smiting men-at-arms
     to the ground with the sweep of his tremendous sword, and receiving
     on his gentle body twenty-two cruel wounds. While thus at fearful
     odds, the noble Astorre mounted his charger and joined him. Upon
     his helmet flashed the falcon of the Baglioni with the dragon's
     tail that swept behind. Bidding Simonetto tend his wounds, he in
     his turn held the square. Listen to Matarazzo's description of the
     scene; it is as good as any piece of the _Mort Arthur_: "According
     to the report of one who told me what he had seen with his own
     eyes, never did anvil take so many blows as he upon his person and
     his steed; and they all kept striking at his lordship in such
     crowds that the one prevented the other. And so many lances,
     partisans, and cross bow quarries, and other weapons made upon his
     body a most mighty din, that above every other noise and shout was
     heard the thud of those great strokes. But he, like one who had the
     mastery of war, set his charger where the press was thickest,
     jostling now one and now another; so that he ever kept at least ten
     men of his foes stretched on the ground beneath his horse's hoofs;
     which horse was a most fierce beast, and gave his enemies what
     trouble he best could. And now that gentle lord was all fordone
     with sweat and toil, he and his charger; and so weary were they
     that scarcely could they any longer breathe. Soon after the
     Baglioni mustered in force. One by one their heroes rushed from the
     palaces. The enemy were driven back with slaughter; and a war
     ensued which made the fair land between Assisi and Perugia a
     wilderness for many months." It must not be forgotten that at the
     time of these great feats of Simonetto and Astorre young Raphael
     was painting in the studio of Perugino. What the whole city
     witnessed with astonishment and admiration, he, the keenly
     sensitive artist-boy, treasured in his memory. Therefore in the St
     George of the Louvre, and in the mounted horseman trampling upon
     Heliodorus in the Stanze of the Vatican, victorious Astorre lives
     for ever, immortalised in all his splendour by the painter's art.
     The grinning griffin on the helmet, the resistless frown upon the
     forehead of the beardless knight, the terrible right arm, and the
     ferocious steed--all are there as Raphael saw and wrote them on his
     brain. One characteristic of the Baglioni, as might be plentifully
     illustrated from their annalist, was their eminent beauty which
     inspired beholders with an enthusiasm and a love they were far
     from deserving by their virtues. It is this, in combination with
     their personal heroism, which gives a peculiar dramatic interest to
     their doings, and makes the chronicle of Matarazzo more fascinating
     than a novel."

Matarazzo was not alone in his admiration for the Baglioni. He tells us
that whenever the "magnificent Guido," his son Astorre, or his nephew
Gianpaolo walked in the piazza every citizen paused at his work to
admire them, and if perchance a stranger passed through Perugia he was
certain to make every effort to see them. The soldiers would hurry from
their tents to see Gianpaolo go by, and anyone walking by this noble's
side seemed dwarfed and insignificant by reason of his great stature and
his noble form. Gismondo, another of Guide's sons, was universally
admired for his splendid horsemanship. He would make his horse leap into
the air, while he sat straight and square in the saddle, not stirring
hand or foot. The citizens looked on marvelling at these feats of skill
and daring. Gismondo was slim, and walked with the lightness of a cat,
so that no man in Perugia, however quick of hearing, knew when he was
coming. The richest and perhaps the handsomest of the Baglioni family
was young Grifonetto Baglioni, whose beauty Matarazzo compares to
Ganymede. He was the son of Grifone and Atalanta Baglioni, and nephew to
Guido and Ridolfo. His father had been stabbed at Ponte Ricciolo in
1477, and he lived with his young mother in one of the most beautiful
houses in Perugia. This palace had been commenced by Malatesta Baglioni
and finished by Braccio Baglioni, who, because of the court of learned
men he gathered round him, and the splendid festivals with which he
honoured the lovely ladies of the city, was called "Lorenzo il Magnifico
di Perugia." The palace was entered by a large and richly-ornamented
hall, hung with beautiful pictures. At the opposite end of the room was
a painting of a woman of most venerable and majestic bearing, and over
her head the word _Perusia_. This grave and queenly lady commanded a
view of all the celebrated men of the Umbrian city, for on one side of
the wall were portraits of the famous captains of adventure, and on the
other those of the most learned of the doctors and scholars, with their
names and a description of their mighty deeds written in full below
them. Grifonetto lived in great magnificence. "He kept numbers of
horses, Barbary steeds, to run in the races, jesters and other
properties pertaining to a gentleman. He even kept a lion; and all who
went to the house compared it to a king's court."

     "In 1500, when the events about to be related took place,
     Grifonetto was quite a youth. Brave, rich, handsome, and married to
     a young wife, Zenobia Sforza, he was the admiration of Perugia. He
     and his wife loved each other dearly, and how, indeed, could it be
     otherwise, since 'l'uno e l'altro sembravano doi angioli di
     Paradiso?'[26] At the same time he had fallen into the hands of bad
     and desperate counsellors. A bastard of the house, Filippo da
     Braccio, his half-uncle, was always at his side, instructing him
     not only in the accomplishments of chivalry, but also in wild ways
     that brought his name into disrepute. Another of his familiars was
     Carlo Barciglia Baglioni, an unquiet spirit, who longed for more
     power than his poverty and comparative obscurity allowed. With them
     associated Girolamo della Penna, a veritable ruffian, contaminated
     from his earliest youth with every form of lust and violence, and
     capable of any crime. These three companions, instigated partly by
     the lord of Camerino and partly by their own cupidity, conceived a
     scheme for massacring the families of Guido and Ridolfo at one
     blow. As a consequence of this wholesale murder, Perugia would be
     at their discretion. Seeing of what use Grifonetto by his wealth
     and name might be to them, they did all they could to persuade him
     to join their conjuration. It would appear that the bait first
     offered him was the sovereignty of the city, but that he was at
     last gained over by being made to believe that his wife, Zenobia,
     had carried on an intrigue with Gianpaolo Baglioni. The dissolute
     morals of the family gave plausibility to an infernal trick which
     worked upon the jealousy of Grifonetto. Thirsting for revenge, he
     consented to the scheme. The conspirators were further fortified by
     the accession of Jeronimo della Staffa, and three members of the
     house of Corgna. It is noticeable that out of the whole number only
     two--Bernardo da Corgna and Filippo da Braccio--were above the age
     of thirty. Of the rest, few had reached twenty-five. At so early an
     age were the men of those times adepts in violence and treason. The
     execution of the plot was fixed for the wedding festivities of
     Astorre Baglioni with Lavinia, the daughter of Giovanni Colonna and
     Giustina Orsini. At that time the whole Baglioni family were to be
     assembled in Perugia, with the single exception of Marcantonio, who
     was taking baths at Naples for his health. It was known that the
     members of the noble house, nearly all of them condottieri by
     trade, and eminent for their great strength and skill in arms, took
     few precautions for their safety. They occupied several houses
     close together between the Porta San Carlo and the Porta Eburnea,
     set no regular guard over their sleeping-chambers, and trusted to
     their personal bravery and to the fidelity of their attendants. It
     was thought that they might be assassinated in their beds. The
     wedding festivities began upon the 28th of July, and great is the
     particularity with which Matarazzo describes the doings of each
     successive day--processions, jousts, triumphal arches, banquets,
     balls, and pageants."

Perugia, it seems, was turned into a veritable garden of loveliness on
this occasion. Rich velvets, brocades, and tapestries hung from the
palace windows, their gorgeous colours mingled with long trails of ivy,
with many shrubs and the branches of blossoming trees, which also filled
the streets. Colossal arches spanned the roads at the different gates
into the city. All vied together to erect the finest arch; and one was
hung all over with tapestries showing the military exploits of the young
Astorre. As the Roman bride passed in, the ladies of Perugia went to
meet her, offering her rich presents. Some were dressed in cloth of
gold and silver, others in silk and velvet, and many of them were lovely
to behold. But Lavinia Colonna excelled them all by the glory of her
broidered gown, and by the pearls and jewels twisted in her hair.
Simonetto Baglioni drove round the city in a triumphal car, and as he
went he cast great quantities of sugared dainties to the crowd, thus
trying, by every means in his power, to add to the merriment of the
marriage-day, and to show that love and comradeship united the Baglioni
family.

But down in the Borgo S. Angelo men were silent and morose, for they
hated these tyrants of Perugia, and held aloof from all rejoicings. They
had noted strange auguries of late, and a whisper went round that evil
was impending. On the first night of the festivities a terrible storm
arose, scattering the decorations in the whirlwind. It was an awful
night, and the young Roman bride shuddered, as above the din of the
storm, she heard the sinister roars of the Baglioni lions.[27] Lavinia
and Astorre were lodged in the palace of their traitorous cousin
Grifonetto, and neither dreamt of the treachery that was so near at
hand.

     "The night of the 14th of August was finally set apart for the
     consummation of _el gran tradimento_: it is thus that Matarazzo
     always alludes to the crime of Grifonetto, with a solemnity of
     reiteration that is most impressive. A heavy stone let fall into
     the courtyard of Guido Baglioni's palace was to be the signal: each
     conspirator was then to run to the sleeping-chamber of his
     appointed prey. Two of the principals and fifteen _bravi_ were told
     off to each victim: rams and crowbars were prepared to force the
     doors if needful. All happened as had been anticipated. The crash
     of the falling stone was heard. The conspirators rushed to the
     scene of operations. Astorre, who was sleeping in the house of his
     traitorous cousin Grifonetto, was slain in the arms of his young
     bride, crying, as he vainly struggled, 'Misero Astorre che more
     come poltrone!'[28] Simonetto flew to arms, exclaiming to his
     brother, 'Non dubitare Gismondo, mio fratello!'[29] He, too, was
     soon despatched.[30] Filippo da Braccio, after killing him, tore
     from a great wound in his side the still quivering heart, into
     which he drove his teeth with savage fury. Old Guido died groaning,
     'Ora e gionto il ponto mio,'[31] and Gismondo's throat was cut
     while he lay holding back his face that he might be spared the
     sight of his own massacre. The corpses of Astorre and Simonetto
     were stripped and thrown out naked into the streets. Men gathered
     round and marvelled to see such heroic forms, with faces so proud
     and fierce even in death. In especial the foreign students likened
     them to ancient Romans. But on their fingers were rings, and these
     the ruffians of the place would fain have hacked off with their
     knives. From this indignity the noble limbs were spared; then the
     dead Baglioni were hurriedly consigned to an unhonoured tomb.
     Meanwhile the rest of the intended victims managed to escape.
     Gianpaolo, assailed by Grifonetto and Gianfrancesco della Corgna,
     took refuge with his squire, Maraglia, upon a staircase leading
     from his room. While the squire held the passage with his pike
     against the foe, Gianpaolo effected his flight over neighbouring
     house-roofs. He crept into the attic of some foreign students, who,
     trembling with terror, gave him food and shelter, clad him in a
     scholar's gown, and helped him to fly in this disguise from the
     gates at dawn. He then joined his brother Troilo at Marsciano,
     whence he returned without delay to punish the traitors. At the
     same time Grifonetto's mother Atalanta, taking with her his wife,
     Zenobia, and the two young sons of Gianpaolo, Malatesta and Orazio,
     afterwards so celebrated in Italian history for their great feats
     of arms and their crimes, fled to her country-house at Landona.
     Grifonetto in vain sought to see her there. She drove him from her
     presence with curses for the treason and the fratricide that he
     had planned. It is very characteristic of these wild natures,
     framed of fierce instincts and discordant passions, that his
     mother's curse weighed like lead upon the unfortunate young man.
     Next day, when Gianpaolo returned to try the luck of arms,
     Grifonetto, deserted by the companions of his crime and paralysed
     by the sense of his guilt, went out alone to meet him on the public
     place. The semi-failure of their scheme had terrified the
     conspirators: the horrors of that night of blood unnerved them. All
     had fled except the next victim of the feud. Putting his sword to
     the youth's throat, Gianpaolo looked into his eyes and said, 'Art
     thou here, Grifonetto? Go with God's peace: I will not slay thee,
     nor plunge my hand in my own blood, as thou hast done in thine.'
     Then he turned and left the lad to be hacked in pieces by his
     guard. The untranslatable words which Matarazzo uses to describe
     his death are touching from the strong impression they convey of
     Grifonetto's goodliness: 'Qui ebbe sua signoria sopra sua nobile
     persona tante ferite che suoi membra leggiadre stese in terra.'[32]
     None but Greeks felt the charm of personal beauty thus.[33] But
     while Grifonetto was breathing out his life upon the pavement of
     the piazza, his mother, Atalanta, and his wife Zenobia, came to
     greet him through the awe-struck city. As they approached, all men
     fell aside and slunk away before their grief. None would seem to
     have had a share in Grifonetto's murder. Then Atalanta knelt by her
     dying son, and ceased from wailing, and prayed and exhorted him to
     pardon those who had caused his death. It appears that Grifonetto
     was too weak to speak, but that he made a signal of assent, and
     received his mother's blessing at the last: "And then the noble
     stripling stretched his right hand to his youthful mother, pressing
     the white hand of his mother; and afterwards forthwith he breathed
     his soul forth from his beauteous body, and died with numberless
     blessings of his mother instead of the curses she had given him
     before."

     "After the death of Grifonetto and the flight of the conspirators,
     Gianpaolo took possession of Perugia. All who were suspected of
     complicity in the treason were massacred upon the piazza and in
     the cathedral. At the expense of more than a hundred murders, the
     chief of the Baglioni found himself master of the city on the 17th
     of July. First he caused the cathedral to be washed with wine and
     reconsecrated. Then he decorated the Palazzo with the heads of the
     traitors and with their portraits in fresco, painted hanging head
     downwards, as was the fashion in Italy. Next he established himself
     in what remained of the palaces of his kindred, hanging the saloons
     with black, and arraying his retainers in the deepest mourning.
     Sad, indeed, was now the aspect of Perugia. Helpless and
     comparatively uninterested, the citizens had been spectators of
     these bloody broils. They were now bound to share the desolation of
     their masters. Matarazzo's description of the mournful palace and
     the silent town, and of the return of Marcantonio from Naples,
     presents a picture striking for its vividness.[34] In the true
     style of the Baglioni, Marcantonio sought to vent his sorrow not so
     much in tears as by new violence. He prepared and lighted torches,
     meaning to burn the whole quarter of S. Angelo; and from this
     design he was with difficulty dissuaded by his brother. To such mad
     freaks of rage and passion were the inhabitants of a mediæval town
     in Italy exposed! They make us understand the _ordinanze di
     giustizia_, by which to be a noble was a crime in Florence.

     "From this time forward the whole history of the Baglioni family is
     one of crime and bloodshed. A curse had fallen on the house, and to
     the last of its members the penalty was paid. Gianpaolo himself
     acquired the highest reputation throughout Italy for his courage
     and sagacity both as a general and a governor."

Gianpaolo is the last member of the Baglioni brood who succeeded in
ruling over his native city, maintaining the despotic traditions of his
predecessors by a system of unconscionable brutality. The personality of
this tyrant is strongly brought forward in Italian histories. Frolliere
gives the following account of the fascination of the outward man:

     "Gianpaolo during his life-time was the favoured one of Heaven and
     of fortune. He was handsome and of a gracious aspect, pleasant and
     benign; eloquent in his conversation, and of great prudence; and
     every gesture harmonised with his words and manner. In his desire
     to please all, even strangers, if perchance he was unable or
     unwilling to serve them, he showed himself so gracious and so
     willing, that they left him satisfied and pleased. He was much
     given to the love of women and he was greatly loved by them by
     reason of his delicate and lordly bearing. He was, indeed, a
     valiant and a gallant knight, of admirable and almost divine talent
     and resource, as was shown in many of his enterprises and his
     actions."[35]

But there was a very different side to this in the character of
Gianpaolo, and we hear that on one occasion

... "he had it in his mind to murder four citizens of Perugia, his
     enemies. He looked calmly on while his kinsmen Eusebio and Taddeo
     Baglioni, who had been accused of treason, were hewn to pieces by
     his guard. His wife, Ippolita de' Conti, was poniarded on her Roman
     farm; on hearing the news, he ordered a festival in which he was
     engaged to proceed with redoubled merriment."[36]

Gianpaolo was also a good diplomatist, as cautious as he was cruel, and
one of the most striking pictures in Perugian history is that of his
reception of Julius II. in 1506, on which occasion the Pope came to
visit the tyrant in person. The Baglioni was perfectly well aware that
Julius had come for the purpose of re-establishing papal dominion in the
city; but he was too cautious to shove His Holiness over a wall which he
was building at the time, and thus to counterfeit the papal plans and
set all Italy ablaze with admiration at the audacity of his action:

     "While Michelangelo was planning frescoes and venting his bile in
     sonnets, the fiery Pope had started on his perilous career of
     conquest. He called the cardinals together, and informed them that
     he meant to free the cities of Perugia and Bologna from their
     tyrants. God, he said, would protect His Church; he could rely on
     the support of France and Florence. Other popes had stirred up wars
     and used the services of Generals; he meant to take the field in
     person. Louis XII. is reported to have jeered among his courtiers
     at the notion of a high-priest riding to the wars. A few days
     afterwards, on the 27th of August, the Pope left Rome attended by
     twenty-four cardinals and 500 men-at-arms. He had previously
     secured the neutrality of Venice and a promise of troops from the
     French court. When Julius reached Orvieto, he was met by Gianpaolo,
     the bloody and licentious despot of Perugia. Notwithstanding
     Baglioni knew that Julius was coming to assert his supremacy, and
     notwithstanding the Pope knew that this might drive to desperation
     a man so violent and stained with crime as Baglioni, they rode
     together to Perugia, where Gianpaolo paid homage and supplied his
     haughty guest with soldiers. The rashness of this act of Julius
     sent a thrill of admiration throughout Italy, stirring that sense
     of _terribilita_ which fascinated the imagination of the men of the
     Renaissance. Machiavelli, commenting upon the action of the
     Baglioni, remarks that the event proved how difficult it is for a
     man to be perfectly and scientifically wicked."[37]

            *       *       *       *       *

     "At last the time came for Gianpaolo to die by fraud and violence.
     Leo X., anxious to remove so powerful a rival from Perugia, lured
     him in 1520 to Rome under the false protection of a papal
     safe-conduct. After a short imprisonment he had him beheaded in the
     Castle of S. Angelo. It was thought that Gentile, his first cousin,
     sometime Bishop of Orvieto, but afterwards the father of two sons
     in wedlock with Giulia Vitelli--such was the discipline of the
     Church at this epoch--had contributed to the capture of Gianpaolo,
     and had exulted in his execution. If so, he paid dear for his
     treachery; for Orazio Baglioni, the second son of Gianpaolo and
     captain of the Church under Clement VII., had him murdered in 1527,
     together with his two nephews Fileno and Annibale. This Orazio was
     one of the most bloodthirsty of the whole brood. Not satisfied with
     the assassination of Gentile, he stabbed Galeotto, the son of
     Grifonetto, with his own hand in the same year. Afterwards he died
     in the kingdom of Naples while leading the Black Bands in the
     disastrous war which followed the sack of Rome. He left no son.
     Malatesta, his elder brother, became one of the most celebrated
     generals of the age, holding the batons of the Venetian and
     Florentine republics, and managing to maintain his ascendency in
     Perugia in spite of the persistent opposition of successive popes.
     But his name is best known in history for one of the greatest
     public crimes. Intrusted with the defence of Florence during the
     siege of 1530, he sold the city to his enemy, Pope Clement,
     receiving for the price of this infamy certain privileges and
     immunities which fortified his hold upon Perugia for a season. All
     Italy was ringing with the great deeds of the Florentines, who for
     the sake of their liberty transformed themselves from merchants
     into soldiers, and withstood the united powers of pope and emperor
     alone. Meanwhile Malatesta, whose trade was war, and who was being
     largely paid for his services by the beleaguered city, contrived by
     means of diplomatic procrastination, secret communication with the
     enemy, and all the arts that could intimidate an army of recruits,
     to push affairs to a point at which Florence was forced to
     capitulate without inflicting the last desperate glorious blow she
     longed to deal her enemies. The universal voice of Italy condemned
     him. When Matteo Dandolo, the Doge of Venice, heard what he had
     done, he cried before the Pregadi in conclave, 'He has sold that
     people and that city, and the blood of those poor citizens ounce by
     ounce, and has donned the cap of the biggest traitor in the world.'
     Consumed with shame, corroded by an infamous disease, and
     mistrustful of Clement, to whom he had sold his honor, Malatesta
     retired to Perugia, and died in 1531. He left one son, Ridolfo, who
     was unable to maintain himself in the lordship of his native city.
     After killing the papal legate, Cinzio Filonardi, in 1534, he was
     dislodged four years afterwards, when Paul III. took final
     possession of the place as an appanage of the Church, razed the
     houses of the Baglioni to the ground, and built upon their site the
     Rocca Paolina....

... "Ridolfo Baglioni and his cousin Braccio, the eldest son of
     Grifonetto, were both captains of Florence. The one died in battle
     in 1554, the other in 1559. Thus ended the illustrious family. They
     are now represented by descendants from females, and by contadini,
     who preserve their name and boast a pedigree, of which they have no
     written records."[38]

       *       *       *       *       *

Thus the Baglioni practically killed themselves--stamped out their own
power through their own passions. It remained for the Church to crush if
possible the spirit of liberty and of self-government in the people of
Perugia. It is as though a mighty wheel spun round and we next find the
city wholly and entirely in the clutches of Rome.

       *       *       *       *       *

When the last strong member of the terrible brood, Ridolfo Baglioni,
forced his way back into Perugia with the evident intention of ruling
there, he seems to have ignored the fact that he had something more
powerful to face than the opposition of the people. Ridolfo set fire to
the people's palace, but he went much further, he assassinated the
Pope's Legate. This outrage gave the final push to Rome, who had so
often and so impotently interfered before, and Paul Farnese, the
reigning Pope, listened, we hear, with the profoundest displeasure to
the account of this barefaced murder. He at once took the high hand. He
sent troops from Rome to drive out Ridolfo, who retired before them to
seek a better fortune elsewhere. He then had the walls of Spello,
Bettona, Bastia, and other strongholds of Ridolfo Baglioni demolished,
and finally, in order to make his policy more permanent and decisive,
the great Farnese Pope arrived in person at Perugia.

Paul's arrival is one of the most impressive points in the annals of the
town. The rule of the Baglioni had been so powerful and so picturesque
that in tracing it one is inclined to ignore the undercurrent of affairs
in the city. As a matter of fact the old order of rule had not really
died out under that of the nobles, and in the description of Paul's
reception we find the familiar names of companies and _Priori_ occurring
again and again with all their followers and titles.

The Perugians, wearied to death by the despotic rule of the nobles,
hailed the advent of a much more despotic Pope with blind and excessive
joy. Paul came in triumph, and in triumph he was received. Great arches
were built for him and for his cardinals to pass beneath, and since the
town had not sufficient money to spend on his reception they even melted
down a beautiful silver ship belonging to the city plate chest. It was
on the last day of August 1535, and at about midnight, that "His Blessed
Holiness" arrived at the gates with fourteen cardinals and some
companies of 600 or 700 horse and 700 infantry. The Pope rode up on
horseback, dressed in scarlet. Drums and tambours heralded his approach.
The cardinals rode by two and two. On either side of His Holiness rode
his two nephews: the Cardinals Alexander Farnese and Guido Ascanio
Sforza. The _Priori_, all in new and gorgeous robes, preceded by the
Holy Eucharist, came out to meet him, and through their ambassador or
_nunzio_ they presented to His Holiness a silver basin containing the
keys of the city. Then a learned doctor of the University delivered "a
short but elegant address," to which the Pope listened attentively, and
for that night the Pope turned in to sleep in the monastery of S.
Pietro. The following day he entered the city with extraordinary pomp
and took up his abode in the Palazzo Pubblico, where the _Priori_ had
vacated their own rooms in order to give him proper space; and thither
all the professors and all the members of the city guilds and
confraternities arrived that afternoon to kiss his foot.

Paul's first visit to Perugia may be called a triumphal progress rather
than anything else. He gave great gifts of grain to the city, and he
conferred countless benefits upon its churches and its clergy. But he
came to rule, and not to pamper or caress. For a time all went well.
The convents and the monasteries grew fat and prosperous, the Baglioni
were away, and the people apparently at peace; but storms were brewing.
After three years of passive submission Perugia found cause to revolt
against her new ruler as she had done against her old. In 1538 Paul III.
sent out his decree for raising the price of salt by one half in all the
pontifical states, and the Perugians revolted at once against an
imposition which they had good reason to feel unjust.[39]

Revolution was declared. Alfano Alfani, the chief of the magistrates,
tried to calm the fury of his countrymen, and at first only humble
entreaties were sent down to Rome imploring Paul III. to remove a tax so
odious to the people. But the Pope was too much in need of money to
listen to these prayers. His only answer was an excommunication, which
punishment was not unfamiliar to the people of Perugia. During the month
of March 1539 the city lay under an interdict, no masses were said, no
sacraments given, and the churches seemed as the monuments of a people
long since dead. Every day the murmurings of the Perugians grew and
strengthened, and finally they took the high-handed measure of arranging
matters for themselves. They elected twenty-five citizens who were
called "the twenty-five defenders of justice in the city of Perugia,"
and before many days were out the "twenty-five" had obtained unlimited
power. They exercised an independent and undisputed authority and pushed
the _priori_ entirely to one side. Their endeavours to protect their
liberty and resist the Pope's authority soon roused his anger. The
Farnese was not a person to be trifled with, and this barefaced
rebellion of the little Umbrian city had to be crushed by prompt and
powerful means; so the Pope sent his son, Pier Luigi Farnese, at the
head of 10,000 Italians and 3000 Spaniards to meet the rulers in the
field.

A strange piece of history follows. The Perugians veer round utterly and
call in as their leader Ridolfo Baglioni to help them against a Pope,
whom but three short years ago they had welcomed as their best
benefactor.

Ridolfo went forth to fight against the Papal troops with a mighty
flourish of trumpets, but we only hear faint rumours of a skirmish near
Ponte S. Giovanni where one or two men were killed, and a few more
tumbled off their chargers. The whole account reads like a farce, and
yet we know that men and women regarded it with deadly earnest at the
time. The city was all unhinged. An extraordinary religious phase which
had nothing to do with the Church came over her. The large crucifix
which is still to be seen in S. Lorenzo, was placed above the main
entrance to the Duomo, and here the people came to pray and tell their
beads with an unwonted fervour. Continual processions wound their slow
way up from S. Domenico to the Cathedral square, and we hear that the
cries for mercy were deafening throughout the city.

On a dark night, by the flickering light of many torches, Maria Podiano,
the Chancellor of the Commune, delivered a touching oration, and in the
sight of all the citizens he placed the city keys at the foot of the
great crucifix on the outside of the Cathedral--Christ was to be their
defender, Christ their leader, to fight against a Pope![40]

But it was impossible that Perugia should be able to stand against such
an army as that of Paul III., and Ridolfo Baglioni was the first to see
that his side must lose. With less loyalty than might have been expected
from this would-be despot of Perugia, he edged towards peace, and
finally, on the 3rd June 1540, peace was concluded between Pier Luigi
Farnese and Ridolfo Baglioni. Thus it happened that once again Perugia
was cast under the shadow of Pontifical Rome. Neighbouring towns had
abandoned her at the moment when she wrestled for her liberty; Ridolfo
Baglioni had given her but a half-hearted help, and the Perugians were
driven to confess that the only course which now lay open to them was an
apology to the Pope. Twenty-five ambassadors were therefore sent to
Rome. Dressed in long black robes with halters round their necks, the
unhappy Perugian envoys crouched in the portico of S. Peter's awaiting
their absolution.

Pardon was obtained, but at a heavy price. The ambassadors returned home
bearing the news that Paul had forgiven the city; but the titles of
Preservers of Ecclesiastical Obedience, borne by the Pope's magistrates,
warned Perugia quite sufficiently that her old forms of government were
wiped away for ever. A few days later and the foundations of Paul III.'s
fortress were laid on the site of the razed palaces of the Baglioni, and
the citizens were compelled to lend their help in the erection of this
colossal stronghold which was to prove their bane for centuries to
follow. On its inner walls it bore the following inscription, which
fully indicated the feelings and intentions of the indomitable Farnese:
_Ad coercendam Perusinorum Audaciam_.[41]

Writhing beneath the yoke of priests, the Perugians soon regretted even
the rule of the Baglioni: "Help me if you can," Malatesta Baglioni had
cried as he lay dying at Bettona in 1531, "for after my death you will
be made to draw the cart like oxen"; and Frolliere, chronicling these
words, remarks: "This has been fulfilled to the last letter, for all
have borne not only the yoke but the goad."[42]

In the same year (1540) as that in which Paul III. laid the foundations
of his famous fortress, a society, which proved of invaluable service in
furthering the work and wishes of the Papacy, sprang forth into vigorous
life, and gradually the chief power in Perugia fell into the hands of
the Jesuits. These agents of the Pope proceeded to convert the city
wholesale by means of religious ceremonies, general confessions,
preachings in every square, and in all the corners of the streets, and
colossal processions, headed by missionaries wearing crowns of thorns
and bearing enormous crosses. Industries died out, poverty, famine, and
pestilence decimated the city, and in 1728, from a petition presented to
Clement X., it appears that Perugia was reduced to such a state of
wretchedness as to bring tears to the eyes of those who remembered her
former prosperity.

       *       *       *       *       *

The final history of Perugia, down to the present day, may be compressed
into a very few lines. Up to the

[Illustration: FORTRESS OF PAUL III. SHOWING THE UPPER PART NOW OCCUPIED
BY THE PREFETTURA, ETC., AND THE LOWER WING WHICH COVERED THE SITE OF
THE PRESENT PIAZZA D'ARMI

(_From a water-colour sketch now in the possession of Madame Brufani at
Perugia._)]

end of the last century, she was practically ruled by the Popes, and was
a city of the Papal States. Her immense convents and churches were
filled with monks and nuns. In 1549, Julius III. restored to her some of
her ancient privileges of which Paul had deprived her, and in some sort
she regained her old forms of government, but she could never again be
called by her historians an independent State. In 1797, during the
general upheaval of Europe which followed the revolution in France, she
underwent a quite new phase, and became a French Prefecture under the
title of _Departimento del Trasimeno_. General la Valette levied tribute
from the citizens, who were further harassed by the sudden break up of
the Roman Republic and an Austrian occupation. After the Battle of
Marengo, in 1800, Perugia ceased to be Pontifical, and in 1809 she was
formally annexed to the French Empire, and made a canton of Spoleto
under a sub-prefect. By Napoleon's orders the convents of both sexes and
of all orders were suppressed, the bishops and prelates were sent to
Rome in carriage loads, and the poor monks and nuns were unfrocked and
literally carted through the streets to their homes. When a turn came in
the fortunes of the empire, Perugia became the victim of another change,
and with the partial introduction of the papal sway, the monks and nuns
returned to their convents.

In spite of its tyrannies, the Napoleonic occupation had given the
Perugians a taste for better things than a papal despotism, and they
never again found rest in the care of the Pope. They fretted and chafed
under the Pope's people; the Pope's fortress became a veritable eye-sore
to them, the daily sight of its walls burned into their hearts like
red-hot nails, and whenever they could they pulled a part of it down.

At last, in 1859, they rose in open rebellion, and Papal troops were
sent by Pius IX. to besiege the town. Some 2000 of the Swiss Guard, led
by Colonel Schmid, arrived from Rome to quell the insurrection. Bonazzi
gives a vivid account of the atrocities these men committed in the city.
They killed all whom they laid hands on in their raids as they passed
through the streets, crying aloud as they went that "their master the
Pope had given them orders that none should be spared." S. Pietro was
forced, and, notwithstanding the protests of the Abbot and his monks,
its vestments were torn to threads, gold and silver ornaments carried
away, and not even the archives with their wealth of long accumulated
missals escaped the vandalism of the papal troops. (See p. 162.)

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