Walks near Edinburgh 20

Walks near Edinburgh 20

[65] Scott's _Tales of a Grandfather_.

 

The old bridge of Cramond is little used now. It stands a hundred

yards lower down the water than the new bridge, over which the road

runs to Queensferry. The woods of Dalmeny sweep down the river-side,

but above the bridge Craigie Hall claims one bank, and Cammo the

other. Cammo, or New Saughton, as it used to be called, belonged

to the Watsons, and then passed by the marriage of the last of the

family to the Earls of Morton. It was sold a few years ago. When the

Queen paid her first visit to Scotland in 1842, the young heiress of

Saughton rode out at the head of her tenantry to meet her and escort

her to Edinburgh. Two years later she became Lady Aberdour, and was

mother to the present Lord Morton.

 

We are now on the Queensferry Road once more, and turning eastwards,

with our faces towards Edinburgh, we continue to skirt the wall of

Barnton. This place, which now belongs to Sir James Gibson Maitland,

is formed of two properties thrown together. The present house was

originally Cramond Regis, where there had been a royal hunting-seat.

The house was built in 1640 by Sir John Smith of Grotthill, who

was Lord Provost of Edinburgh. He sold the place, and it passed

through several hands before being bought in the last century by

Mr. Ramsay, a banker in Edinburgh. He also bought Barnton. The site

of the old house is near the lodge at Davidson's Mains, and not far

from where the gardens now are. It belonged in 1507 to Sir Robert

Barton, the master-skipper of the _Great Michael_, a famous ship,

built by James V. He was afterwards Comptroller of the Exchequer,

Lord High Treasurer (1529), and Master of the Mint. In 1580, Barnton

was sold to James Elphinston, first Lord Balmerino, in whose family

it continued till 1688. The fine pillar sundial that still exists

here was put up by the father of the Lord Balmerino of the '45.[66]

At the end of the last century, Barnton belonged to Wilhelmina, Lady

Glenorchy, to whom it was left by her husband. She spent many years

of her pious and blameless life at this place, but in 1786, shortly

before her death, she sold it to Mr. Ramsay. He lived here while he

was altering and improving the house of Cramond Regis, and when that

was finished, the old house of Barnton was pulled down, and its name

usurped by its younger rival.

 

[66] There are two curious sundials at Barnton. One is an obelisk

dial, about twelve feet high, dated 1692. The other, of monumental

design, was erected by Lord Balmerino.

 

Mr. Ramsay's grandson was the well-known M. F. H. He was fond of all

kinds of sport, and with his friend, Captain Barclay of Urie, horsed

and drove the "Defiance" coach to and from Aberdeen. Lanercost, the

best horse he ever owned, keeps his memory green on the turf. His

only son succeeded him, at whose death Barnton passed to his nearest

relations, the Gibson Maitlands. They have preferred living at

Sauchie, their own place in Stirlingshire, and Barnton has been let

for many years.

 

We now find ourselves back at Davidson's Mains; but, instead of going

straight home to Edinburgh by Blackhall, we turn abruptly to the

right, along a quiet country road, which winds along the base of the

Corstorphine Hills. About half a mile farther on, we pass the gate of

Craigcrook, a pretty little place which seems sheltered from every

harsh wind in the lap of these wooded heights. For many years it was

the home of Francis, Lord Jeffrey, the critic, the "immortal Jeffrey"

of Lord Byron's bitter lines,[67] who settled here in 1815. Over the

outer gate of the courtyard there is a stone, with the date 1621, and

a shield which bears traces of the arms of the Adamsons, early owners

of Craigcrook. In the sixteenth century, William Adamson was one

of the largest proprietors on this side of Edinburgh. His property

extended from Craigleith to Cammo. He was slain, with his kinsman,

Alexander Napier of Merchiston, at the battle of Pinkie in 1547.

Craigcrook now forms part of the Strachan Mortification, the lands

having been left for charitable purposes by Mr. Strachan, Writer to

the Signet, who died in 1719.

 

[67]

 

Health to immortal Jeffrey! once in name

England could boast a judge almost the same.

 

_English Bards and Scotch Reviewers._

 

 

As we turn again to the right, our attention is attracted by the

romantic and fairy-like scene, which is only divided from us by a

low wall. A miniature lake lies embosomed in the woods, and on its

eastern side rise beetling crags, crowned with Scotch firs. Ivy,

in some places, hangs down the face of the cliff, and here and

there a dislodged block of stone has given foothold to broom and

bramble bushes. Few winds can ruffle that little lake, it lies in so

sheltered a spot, and on a sunny afternoon, it smilingly reflects

each crevice and ivy-trail in the rocks above it. In the 16th century

a quarry was worked here, but many, many years must have passed since

the hand of man last profaned this lovely spot, and nature has swept

all trace of his work away. It lies in the grounds of Ravelston, a

pretty old place, which stands on an eminence to our left. The old

house is a little to the west of the present one, and nearer the

road. Over the entrance is the inscription, "G. F. _Ne quid nimis_,

1622. J. B." This is probably the date of its erection, and the

initials are those of George Foulis, and Janet Bannatyne his wife.

The Foulis owned Ravelston for many years. The last of the family

took the name of Primrose from his grandmother, the heiress of

Dunipace, and was the gallant Sir Archibald Primrose, who suffered

for his king at Carlisle, in 1746.[68] His lands were forfeited, but

Ravelston had been sold some time before, and had been acquired in

1726 by Mr. Keith, a relation of the Earl Marischal. His grandson,

who built the present house, was knighted by George IV. on his visit

to this country, and made Knight Marischal of Scotland. A near

relationship subsisted between Sir Walter Scott and the Ravelston

family, his grandmother, Mrs. Rutherford, and old Mrs. Keith having

been sisters;[69] and in his letters and memoir we find constant

references to Ravelston. It now belongs to Miss Murray Gartshore,

whose father bought it from his nephew, Sir Patrick Keith Murray. The

well-known song, "Hark the voice of joy and singing," was written

by the late Mrs. Murray Gartshore, who sang beautifully, and wrote

several very pretty things. There used to be a beautiful avenue of

walnut-trees near the house, but they have all been either cut or

blown down.

 

[68] It was either this Sir Archibald's widow or his mother, that

was the Lady Primrose who entertained Flora Macdonald so hospitably

in London, during her detention there in 1747, and to whose house in

Essex Street, Strand, Prince Charles came during the secret visit

he paid to London in 1750. Dr. King, in his _Political and Literary

Anecdotes_, gives an account of meeting the Prince at Lady Primrose's.

 

[69] They were both Swintons of Swinton.

 

Ravelston brings us almost to the end of our pilgrimage. Either the

road straight before us, or that to the right through Murrayfield,

will quickly take us back to Edinburgh. Let us linger a few moments

before we part, and, turning round, let us climb the steep path that

leads over the shoulder of the hill to the village of Corstorphine.

As breathless and exhausted we reach the top, we sink gratefully on

the seat, which long has been known as "Rest and be thankful," and

let our eyes and thoughts stray over the beautiful scene. Before us

lies Edinburgh, with its castle and its spires,--beyond is the sea

and distant Lammermuirs. Over all the golden light of evening is

shining, and the fir-trees throw long shadows at our feet. From this

spot we can see most of the places to which our weary steps have

wandered in turn; and as we sit here in peace, may the recollections

of the past, which I have striven to reawaken, touch each place, as

it rises in your memory, with a ray of gold as bright as that which

the setting sun throws o'er them now!

 

The book is completed and closed like the day,

And the hand that has written it, lays it away!

 

 

 

 

INDEX.

 

 

A.

 

Aberdour, Lady, heiress of New Saughton, 162.

Abbeyhill, 125.

Adamson, William, owned Craigcrook, killed at Pinkie, 164, 165.

Almond, The, 135, 160.

Angus, Lord, killed at Steinkirk,

son of the Marchioness of Douglas, 114.

Argyle and Greenwich, John, Duke of, 97, 148, 154.

 

B.

 

Baberton, curious old house, inhabited by Charles X. of France, 141.

Baird of Newbyth, 54.

Baird of Saughton, 141.

Ballads--

The Marchioness of Douglas, 110, _note_.

The Paddo's Sang, 105, _note_.

The Two Brothers, 60, _note_.

The Water o' Wearie's Well, 104, _note_.

Balm Well at Liberton, 52, 53.

Barnbougle, Moubray of, 34, 80, 156.

Barnton, 156, 162-164.

---- now joined to Cramond Regis, 163.

Battle at the Cat-Stane, 137.

---- at Morton, between the Picts and the Romans, 25, 26.

Battle-stone at Comiston, _illustration_, 26.

Biblical names in Morningside, 19.

Blackford Avenue, 44, 46.

Blackford Hill, now a public park, 49, 50.

Blackford House, description of, by Sir T. Dick Lauder, 47, 48.

Bonally, 30.

Bore-stone,

where the Royal Standard was planted by James IV. in 1513, 39.

Boroughmuir, extent of, 16, 17, 22.

---- James IV. mustered his army there in 1513, 17, 39.

Bothwell, James, Earl of, signed the bond at Craigmillar, 86.

---- ---- seized Queen Mary by the Bridge of Almond, 138.

Bothwell, Francis, Earl of, 92, _note_, 123.

Braehead, on the Almond, 160.

---- granted by James V. to John Howieson, 160-162.

Braid Burn, 20, 71, 97.

Braid, Hermitage of, 19-21.

Braid, Hills of, 16, 23.

---- view from, 22.

Brand of Brandfield, 144.

Brounisfield, _see_ Bruntisfield, 10-16.

Brede, Fairlie of, _see_ Fairlie, 20.

Brown of Gorgie, also owners of Braid, 20.

Bruntfield, Adam, duel with James Carmichael, 106, 107.

Bruntfield, Stephen, Captain of Tantallon,

killed by James Carmichael, 106.