Common Sense in the Household 11
SHELL-FISH.
TO BOIL A LOBSTER.
Choose a lively one—not too large, lest he should be tough. Put a
handful of salt into a pot of boiling water, and having tied the claws
together, if your fish merchant has not already skewered them, plunge
him into the prepared bath. He will be restive under this vigorous
hydropathic treatment; but allay your tortured sympathies by the
reflection that he is a cold-blooded animal, destitute of imagination,
and that pain, according to some philosophers, exists only in the
imagination. However this may be, his suffering will be short-lived.
Boil from half an hour to an hour, as his size demands. When done,
draw out the scarlet innocent, and lay him, face downward, in a sieve
to dry. When cold, split open the body and tail, and crack the claws
to extract the meat, throwing away the “lady fingers” and the head.
Lobsters are seldom served without dressing, upon private tables, as
few persons care to take the trouble of preparing their own salad after
taking their seats at the board.
DEVILLED LOBSTER.
Extract the meat from a boiled lobster, as for salad, and mince it
finely; reserve the coral. Season highly with mustard, cayenne, salt,
and some pungent sauce. Toss and stir until it is well mixed, and put
into a porcelain saucepan (covered), with just enough hot water to
keep it from burning. Rub the coral smooth, moistening with vinegar
until it is thin enough to pour easily, then stir into the contents
of the saucepan. It is necessary to prepare the dressing, let me say,
before the lobster-meat is set on the fire. It ought to boil up but
once before the coral and vinegar are put in. Next stir in a heaping
tablespoonful of butter, and when it boils again, take the pan from the
fire. Too much cooking toughens the meat. This is a famous supper dish
for sleighing parties.
LOBSTER CROQUETTES. ✠
To the meat of a well-boiled lobster, chopped fine, add pepper, salt,
and powdered mace. Mix with this one-quarter as much bread-crumbs, well
rubbed, as you have meat; make into ovates, or pointed balls, with two
tablespoonfuls of melted butter. Roll these in beaten egg, then in
pulverized cracker, and fry in butter or very nice sweet lard. Serve
dry and hot, and garnish with crisped parsley. This is a delicious
supper dish or _entrée_ at dinner.
DEVILLED CRAB. ✠
This is prepared according to the receipt for devilled
lobster—substituting for the coral in the vinegar some pulverized
cracker, moistened first with a tablespoonful of rich cream. You can
serve up in the back-shell of the crab if you like. Send in with cream
crackers, and stick a sprig of parsley in the top of each heap, ranging
the shells upon a large flat dish.
CRAB SALAD.
Mince the meat and dress as in lobster salad. Send in the back-shell of
the crab.
SOFT CRABS. ✠
Many will not eat hard-shell crabs, considering them indigestible,
and not sufficiently palatable to compensate for the risk they run in
eating them. And it must be owned that they are, at their best, but an
indifferent substitute for the more aristocratic lobster. But in the
morning of life, for him so often renewed, his crabship is a different
creature, and greatly affected by epicures.
Do not keep the crabs over night, as the shells harden in twenty-four
hours. Pull off the spongy substance from the sides and the sand bags.
These are the only portions that are uneatable. Wash well, and wipe
dry. Have ready a pan of seething hot lard or butter, and fry them to a
fine brown. Put a little salt into the lard. The butter will need none.
Send up hot, garnished with parsley.
WATER-TURTLES, OR TERRAPINS.
Land-terrapins, it is hardly necessary to say, are uneatable, but the
large turtle that frequents our mill-ponds and rivers can be converted
into a relishable article of food.
Plunge the turtle into a pot of boiling water, and let him lie there
five minutes. You can then skin the underpart easily, and pull off the
horny parts of the feet. Lay him for ten minutes in _cold_ salt and
water; then put into more hot water—salted, but not too much. Boil
until tender. The time will depend upon the size and age. Take him
out, drain, and wipe dry; loosen the shell carefully, not to break
the flesh; cut open also with care, lest you touch the gall-bag with
the knife. Remove this with the entrails and sand-bag. Cut up all
the rest of the animal into small bits, season with pepper, salt, a
chopped onion, sweet herbs, and a teaspoonful of some spiced sauce, or
a tablespoonful of catsup—walnut or mushroom. Save the juice that runs
from the meat, and put all together into a saucepan with a closely
fitting top. Stew gently fifteen minutes, stirring occasionally, and
add a great spoonful of butter, a tablespoonful of browned flour wet
in cold water, a glass of brown Sherry, and lastly, the beaten yolk of
an egg, mixed with a little of the hot liquor, that it may not curdle.
Boil up once, and turn into a covered dish. Send around green pickles
and delicate slices of dry toast with it.
STEWED OYSTERS.
Drain the liquor from two quarts of firm, plump oysters; mix with it
a small teacupful of hot water, add a little salt and pepper, and
set over the fire in a saucepan. Let it boil up once, put in the
oysters, let them boil for five minutes or less—not more. When they
“ruffle,” add two tablespoonfuls of butter. The instant it is melted
and well stirred in, put in a large cupful of boiling milk and take the
saucepan from the fire. Serve with oyster or cream crackers, as soon as
possible. Oysters become tough and tasteless when cooked too much, or
left to stand too long after they are withdrawn from the fire.
FRIED OYSTERS. ✠
Use for frying the largest and best oysters you can find. Take them
carefully from the liquor; lay them in rows upon a clean cloth, and
press another lightly upon them to absorb the moisture. Have ready some
crackers crushed fine. In the frying-pan heat enough nice butter to
cover the oysters entirely. Dip each oyster into the cracker, rolling
it over that it may become completely incrusted. Drop them carefully
into the frying-pan, and fry quickly to a light brown. If the butter
is hot enough they will soon be ready to take out. Test it by putting
in one oyster before you risk the rest. Do not let them lie in the pan
an instant after they are done. Serve dry, and let the dish be warm. A
chafing-dish is best.
OYSTER FRITTERS. ✠
Drain the liquor from the oysters, and to a cupful of this add the
same quantity of milk, three eggs, a little salt, and flour enough for
a thin batter. Chop the oysters and stir into the batter. Have ready
in the frying-pan a few spoonfuls of lard, or half lard, half butter;
heat very hot, and drop the oyster-batter in by the tablespoonful. Try
a spoonful first, to satisfy yourself that the lard is hot enough, and
that the fritter is of the right size and consistency. Take rapidly
from the pan as soon as they are done to a pleasing yellow brown, and
send to table very hot.
Some fry the oyster whole, enveloped in batter, one in each fritter.
In this case, the batter should be thicker than if the chopped oysters
were to be added.
SCALLOPED OYSTERS. ✠
Crush and roll several handfuls of Boston or other friable crackers.
Put a layer in the bottom of a buttered pudding-dish. Wet this with a
mixture of the oyster liquor and milk, slightly warmed. Next, have a
layer of oysters. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, and lay small bits of
butter upon them. Then another layer of moistened crumbs, and so on
until the dish is full. Let the top layer be of crumbs, thicker than
the rest, and beat an egg into the milk you pour over them. Stick bits
of butter thickly over it, cover the dish, set it in the oven, bake
half an hour; if the dish be large, remove the cover, and brown by
setting it upon the upper grating of oven, or by holding a hot shovel
over it.
BROILED OYSTERS. ✠
Choose large, fat oysters; wipe them very dry; sprinkle salt and
cayenne pepper upon them, and broil upon one of the small gridirons
sold for that purpose. You can dredge the oyster with cracker-dust
or flour if you wish to have it brown, and some fancy the juices are
better kept in in this way. Others dislike the crust thus formed.
Butter the gridiron well, and let your fire be hot and clear. If the
oyster drip, withdraw the gridiron for an instant until the smoke
clears away. Broil quickly and dish hot, putting a tiny piece of
butter, not larger than a pea, upon each oyster.
CREAM OYSTERS ON THE HALF-SHELL.
Pour into your inner saucepan a cup of hot water, another of milk,
and one of cream, with a little salt. Set into a kettle of hot water
until it boils, when stir in two tablespoonfuls of butter and a little
salt, with white pepper. Take from the fire and add two heaping
tablespoonfuls of arrow-root, rice-flour, or corn-starch, wet with
cold milk. By this time your shells should be washed and buttered, and
a fine oyster laid within each. Of course, it is _selon les régles_
to use oyster-shells for this purpose; but you will find clam-shells
more roomy and manageable, because more regular in shape. Range these
closely in a large baking-pan, propping them with clean pebbles or
fragments of shell, if they do not seem inclined to retain their
contents. Stir the cream _very_ hard and fill up each shell with a
spoon, taking care not to spill any in the pan. Bake five or six
minutes in a hot oven after the shells become warm. Serve on the shell.
Some substitute oyster-liquor for the water in the mixture, and use all milk instead of cream.
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