2015년 4월 28일 화요일

Common Sense in the Household 16

Common Sense in the Household 16


BEEF-STEAK.
 
It is not customary to fry beef-steaks for people who know what
really good cookery is. To speak more plainly, a steak, _killed_ by
heat and swimming in grease, is a culinary solecism, both vulgar and
indigestible.
 
Cut the steak thick, at least three-quarters of an inch in thickness,
and if you cannot get tender meat for this purpose, it is best to
substitute some other dish for it. But since tender meat is not always
to be had, if the piece you have purchased is doubtful, lay it on a
clean cloth, take a blunt heavy carving-knife, if you have not a steak
mallet, and hack _closely_ from one end to the other; then turn and
repeat the process upon the other side. The knife should be so dull
you cannot cut with it, and the strokes not the sixtieth part of an
inch apart. Wipe all over on both sides with _lemon-juice_, cover, and
leave it in a cool place for one hour. Lay on a buttered gridiron over
a clear fire, turning very often as it begins to drip. Do not season
until it is done, which will be in about twelve minutes, if the fire
is good and the cook attentive. Rub your hot chafing dish with a split
raw onion, lay in the steak, salt and pepper on both sides, and put a
liberal lump of butter upon the upper. Then put on a hot cover, and
let it stand five minutes to draw the juices to the surface before it
is eaten. If you have neither chafing-dish nor cover, lay the steak
between two hot platters for the same time, sending to table without
uncovering. A gridiron fitting _under_ the grate is better than any
other. If a gridiron is not at hand, rub a little butter upon the
bottom of a hot, clean frying-pan, put in the meat, set over a bright
fire, and turn frequently. This will not be equal to steak cooked upon
a gridiron, but it is infinitely preferable to the same fried.
 
I shall never forget the wondering distrust with which my first cook,
a sable “professional,” watched me when I undertook to show her how
to prepare a steak for the third breakfast over which I presided as
mistress of ceremonies. And when, at the end of twelve minutes, I
removed the meat, “rare and hot,” to the heated dish in readiness, her
sniff of lofty contempt was as eloquent as indescribable.
 
“Call dat _cooked_! Folks ’bout here would ’a had dat steak on by
day-break!”
 
A remark that has been recalled to my mind hundreds of times since at
the tables of so-called capital housewives.
 
The bestnay, the only pieces for steak are those known as porter-house
and sirloin. The former is the more highly esteemed by gourmands; but
a really tender sirloin is more serviceable where there are several
persons in the family, the porter-house having a narrow strip of
extremely nice meat lying next the bone, while the rest is often
inferior to any part of the sirloin. If the meat be tender omit the
hacking process and lemon-juice.
 
 
BEEF-STEAK AND ONIONS.
 
Prepare the steak as above directed. While it is broiling put three
or four chopped onions in a frying-pan with a little beef-dripping or
butter. Stir and shake them briskly until they are done, and begin to
brown. Dish your steak and lay the onions thickly on top. Cover and
let all stand five or six minutes, that the hot onions may impart the
required flavor to the hot meat. In helping your guests, inquire if
they will take onions with the slices of steak put upon their plates. I
need hardly remind the sensible cook how necessary it is to withdraw
the gridiron from the fire for an instant, should the fat drip upon
the coals below, and smoke or blaze. Yet those who have eaten steaks
flavored with creosote may thank me for the suggestion.
 
 
BEEF À-LA-MODE.
 
Take a round of beef; remove the bone from the middle, and trim away
the tougher bits about the edges, with such gristle, &c., as you can
reach. Set these aside for soup-stock.
 
Bind the beef into a symmetrical shape by passing a strip of stout
muslin, as wide as the round is high, about it, and stitching the
ends together at one side. Have ready at least a pound of fat salt
pork, cut into strips as thick as your middle finger, and long enough
to reach from top to bottom of the trussed round. Put a half pint of
vinegar over the fire in a tin or porcelain saucepan; season with
three or four minced shallots or button onions, two teaspoonfuls made
mustard, a teaspoonful nutmeg, one of cloves, half as much allspice,
half-spoonful black pepper, with a bunch of sweet herbs minced fine,
and a tablespoonful brown sugar. Let all simmer for five minutes, then
boil up once, and pour, while scalding hot, upon the strips of pork,
which should be laid in a deep dish. Let all stand together until
cold. Remove the pork to a plate, and mix with the liquor left in the
dish enough bread-crumbs to make a tolerably stiff force-meat. If the
vinegar is very strong, dilute with a little water before moistening
the crumbs. With a long, thin-bladed knife, make perpendicular
incisions in the meat, not more than half an inch apart, even nearer is
better; thrust into these the strips of fat pork, so far down that the
upper ends are just level with the surface, and work into the cavities
with them a little of the force-meat. Proceed thus until the meat is
fairly riddled and plugged with the pork. Fill the hole from which the
bone was taken with the dressing and bits of pork; rub the upper side
of the beef well with the spiced force-meat. Put into a baking-pan;
half-fill this with boiling water; turn a large pan over it to keep
in the steam, and roast slowly for five or six hours, allowing half
an hour to each pound of meat. If the beef be tough, you had better
stew the round by putting it in a pot with half enough cold water to
cover it. Cover tightly and stew very slowly for six hours; then set
in the oven with the gravy about it, and brown half an hour, basting
frequently.
 
If you roast the round, do not remove the cover, except to baste (and
this should be done often), until fifteen minutes before you draw it
from the oven. Set away with the muslin band still about it, and pour
the gravy over the meat.
 
When cold, lift from the gravy,which, by the way, will be excellent
seasoning for your soup-stock,cut the stitches in the muslin girdle,
remove carefully and send the meat to table, cold, garnished with
parsley and nasturtium blossoms. Carve horizontally, in slices thin
as a shaving. Do not offer the outside to any one; but the second cut
will be handsomely marbled with the white pork, which appearance should
continue all the way down.
 
I cannot too highly commend this as a side-dish at dinner, and a supper
and breakfast stand-by. In winter it will keep a week and more, and as
long in summer, if kept in the refrigeratorexcept when it is on the
table.
 
 
BREAKFAST STEW OF BEEF.
 
Cut up two pounds of beefnot too leaninto pieces an inch long; put
them into a saucepan with just enough water to cover them, and stew
gently for two hours. Set away until next morning, when season with
pepper, salt, sweet marjoram or summer savory, chopped onion, and
parsley. Stew half an hour longer, and add a teaspoonful of sauce or
catsup, and a tablespoonful of browned flour wet up with cold water;
finally, if you wish to have it very good, half a glass of wine. Boil
up once, and pour into a covered deep dish.
 
This is an economical dish, for it can be made of the commoner parts
of the beef, and exceedingly nice for winter breakfasts. Eaten with
corn-bread and stewed potatoes, it will soon win its way to a place in
the “stock company” of every judicious housewife.
 
 
ANOTHER BREAKFAST DISH.
 
Cut thin slices of cold roast beef, and lay them in a tin saucepan
set in a pot of boiling water. Cover them with a gravy made of three
tablespoonfuls of melted butter, one of walnut catsup, a teaspoonful
of vinegar, a little salt and pepper, a spoonful of currant jelly, a
teaspoonful made mustard, and some warm water. Cover tightly, and steam
for half an hour, keeping the water in the outer vessel on a hard boil.
 
If the meat is underdone, this is particularly nice.
 
 
BEEF HASH.
 
To two parts cold roast or boiled corned beef, chopped fine, put one of
mashed potatoes, a little pepper, salt, milk, and melted butter. Turn
all into a frying-pan, and stir until it is heated through and smoking
hot, but not until it browns. Put into a deep dish, and if stiff
enough, smooth as you would mashed potato, into a hillock.
 
Or, you can cease stirring for a few minutes, and let a brown crust
form on the under side; then turn out whole into a flat dish, the brown
side uppermost.
 
Or, mould the mixture into flat cakes; dip these in beaten egg flour,
and fry in hot drippings.
 
The remains of beef _à-la-mode_ are very good prepared in any of these
ways. A little catsup and mustard are an improvement to plain cold
beef, thus hashed.
 
 
BEEF-STEAK PIE.
 
Cut the steak into pieces an inch long, and stew with the bone
(cracked) in just enough water to cover the meat until it is half-done.
At the same time parboil a dozen potatoes in another pot. If you wish
a bottom crusta doubtful questionline a pudding-dish with a good
paste, made according to the receipt given below. Put in a layer of the
beef, with salt and pepper, and a very little chopped onion; then one
of sliced potatoes, with a little butter scattered upon them, and so
on, until the dish is full. Pour over all the gravy in which the meat
is stewed, having first thrown away the bone and thickened with browned
flour. Cover with a crust thicker than the lower, leaving a slit in the
middle.
 
 
CRUST FOR MEAT-PIES.
 
1 quart of flour.
3 tablespoonfuls of lard.
2½ cups milk.
1 teaspoonful of soda wet with hot water, and stirred into the milk.
2 teaspoonfuls of cream-tartar sifted into the dry flour.
1 teaspoonful of salt.
 
Work up very lightly and quickly, and do not get too stiff.
 
If you can get prepared flour, omit the soda and cream-tartar.
 
 
 
BEEF PIE, WITH POTATO CRUST.
 
Mince some rare roast beef or cold corned beef, if it is not too salt;
season with pepper and salt, and spread a layer in the bottom of a
pudding-dish. Over this put one of mashed potato, and stick bits of
butter thickly all over it; then another of meat, and so on until you
are ready for the crust.
 
To a large cupful of mashed potato add two tablespoonfuls of melted
butter, a well-beaten egg, two cups of milk, and beat all together
until very light. Then work in enough flour to enable you to roll
out in a sheetnot too stiffand, when you have added to the meat
and potato in the dish a gravy made of warm water, butter, milk, and
catsup, with what cold gravy or dripping remains from “roast,” cover
the pie with a thick, tender crust, cutting a slit in the middle.
 
You can use the potato crust, which is very wholesome and good, for any
kind of meat-pie. It looks well brushed over with beaten white of egg before it goes to table.

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