2014년 12월 7일 일요일

FROM THE CAVES AND JUNGLES OF HINDOSTAN 8

FROM THE CAVES AND JUNGLES OF HINDOSTAN 8


The Sikhs are the bravest and the most warlike sect of the whole Punjab.
The word sikh means disciple. Founded in the fifteenth century by the
wealthy and noble Brahman Nanak, the new teaching spread so successfully
amongst the northern soldiers, that in 1539 A.D., when the founder died,
it counted one hundred thousand followers. At the present time, this
sect, harmonizing closely with the fiery natural mysticism, and the
warlike tendencies of the natives, is the reigning creed of the whole
Punjab. It is based on the principles of theocratic rule; but its dogmas
are almost totally unknown to Europeans; the teachings, the religious
conceptions, and the rites of the Sikhs, are kept secret. The following
details are known generally: the Sikhs are ardent monotheists, they
refuse to recognize caste; have no restrictions in diet, like Europeans;
and bury their dead, which, except among Mussulmans, is a rare exception
in India. The second volume of the Adigrantha teaches them "to adore the
only true God; to avoid superstitions; to help the dead, that they
may lead a righteous life; and to earn one's living, sword in hand."
Govinda, one of the great Gurus of the Sikhs, ordered them never to
shave their beards and moustaches, and not to cut their hair--in order
that they may not be mistaken for Mussulmans or any other native of
India.

Many a desperate battle the Sikhs fought and won, against the
Mussulmans, and against the Hindus. Their leader, the celebrated
Runjit-Sing, after having been acknowledged the autocrat of the Upper
Punjab, concluded a treaty with Lord Auckland, at the beginning of this
century, in which his country was proclaimed an independent state. But
after the death of the "old lion," his throne became the cause of the
most dreadful civil wars and disorders. His son, Maharaja Dhulip-Sing,
proved quite unfit for the high post he inherited from his father,
and, under him, the Sikhs became an ill-disciplined restless mob. Their
attempt to conquer the whole of Hindostan proved disastrous. Persecuted
by his own soldiers, Dhulip-Sing sought the help of Englishmen, and was
sent away to Scotland. And some time after this, the Sikhs took their
place amongst the rest of Britain's Indian subjects.

But still there remains a strong body of the great Sikh sect of old.
The Kuks represent the most dangerous underground current of the popular
hatred. This new sect was founded about thirty years ago [written in
1879] by Balaka-Rama, and, at first, formed a bulk of people near Attok,
in the Punjab, on the east bank of the Indus, exactly on the spot where
the latter becomes navigable. Balaka-Rama had a double aim; to restore
the religion of the Sikhs to its pristine purity, and to organize a
secret political body, which must be ready for everything, at a moment's
notice. This brotherhood consists of sixty thousand members, who pledged
themselves never to reveal their secrets, and never to disobey any order
of their leaders. In Attok they are few, for the town is small. But we
were assured that the Kuks live everywhere in India. Their community
is so perfectly organized that it is impossible to find them out, or to
learn the names of their leaders.

In the course of the evening our Akali presented us with a little
crystal bottle, filled with water from the "Lake of Immortality." He
said that a drop of it would cure all diseases of the eye. There are
numbers of fresh springs at the bottom of this lake, and so its water is
wonderfully pure and transparent, in spite of hundreds of people daily
bathing in it. When, later on, we visited it, we had the opportunity to
verify the fact that the smallest stone at the bottom is seen perfectly
distinctly, all over the one hundred and fifty square yards of the lake.
Amrita-Saran is the most charming of all the sights of Northern India.
The reflection of the Golden Temple in its crystal waters makes a
picture that is simply feerique.

We had still seven weeks at our disposal. We were undecided between
exploring the Bombay Presidency, the North-West Provinces and the
Rajistan. Which were we to choose? Where were we to go? How best to
employ our time? Before such a variety of interesting places we became
irresolute. Hyderabad, which is said to transport the tourists into the
scenery of the Arabian Nights, seemed so attractive that we seriously
thought of turning our elephants back to the territory of the Nizam.
We grew fond of the idea of visiting this "City of the Lion," which was
built in 1589 by the magnificent Mohamed-Kuli-Kuth-Shah, who was so used
to luxuries of every kind as to grow weary even of Golkonda, with all
its fairyland castles and bright gardens. Some buildings of
Hyderabad, mere remnants of the past glory, are still known to
renown. Mir-Abu-Talib, the keeper of the Royal Treasury, states that
Mohamed-Kuli-Shah spent the fabulous sum of L 2,800,000 sterling on the
embellishment of the town, at the beginning of his reign; though the
labor of the workmen did not cost him anything at all. Save these few
memorials of greatness, the town looks like a heap of rubbish nowadays.
But all tourists are unanimous on one point, namely, that the British
Residency of Hyderabad still deserves its title of the Versailles of
India.

The title the British Residency bears, and everything it may contain at
the present time, are mere trifles compared with the past. I remember
reading a chapter of the History of Hyderabad, by an English author,
which contained something to the following effect: Whilst the Resident
entertained the gentlemen, his wife was similarly employed receiving the
ladies a few yards off, in a separate palace, which was as sumptuous,
and bore the name of Rang-Mahal. Both palaces were built by Colonel
Kirkpatrick, the late minister at the Nizam's court. Having married a
native princess, he constructed this charming abode for her personal
use. Its garden is surrounded by a high wall, as is customary in the
Orient, and the centre of the garden is adorned with a large marble
fountain, covered with scenes from the Ramayana, and mosaics, Pavilions,
galleries and terraces--everything in this garden is loaded with
adornments of the most costly Oriental style, that is to say, with
abundance of inlaid designs, paintings, gilding, ivory and marble. The
great attraction of Mrs. Kirkpatrick's receptions were the nautches,
magnificently dressed, thanks to the generosity of the Resident. Some
of them wore a cargo of jewels worth L 30,000, and literally shone from
head to foot with diamonds and other precious stones.

The glorious times of the East India Company are beyond recall, and
no Residents, and even no native princes, could now afford to be so
"generous." India, this "most precious diamond of the British crown," is
utterly exhausted, like a pile of gold in the hands of an alchemist, who
thriftlessly spent it in the hope of finding the philosopher's stone.
Besides ruining themselves and the country, the Anglo-Indians commit the
greatest blunders, at least in two points of their present Government
system. These two points are: first, the Western education they give to
the higher classes; and, secondly, the protection and maintenance of the
rights of idol worship. Neither of these systems is wise. By means of
the first they successfully replace the religious feelings of old India,
which, however false, had the great advantage of being sincere, by a
positive atheism amongst the young generation of the Brahmans; and by
the means of the second they flatter only the ignorant masses, from
whom nothing is to be feared under any circumstances. If the patriotic
feelings of the bulk of the population could possibly be roused, the
English would have been slaughtered long ago. The rural populace is
unarmed, it is true, but a crowd seeking revenge could use the brass and
stone idols, sent to India by thousands from Birmingham, with as great
success as if they were so many swords. But, as it is, the masses of
India are indifferent and harmless; so that the only existing danger
comes from the side of the educated classes. And the English fail to see
that the better the education they give them, the more careful they must
be to avoid reopening the old wounds, always alive to new injury, in
the heart of every true Hindu. The Hindus are proud of the past of their
country, dreams of past glories are their only compensation for the
bitter present. The English education they receive only enables them
to learn that Europe was plunged in the darkness of the Stone Age, when
India was in the full growth of her splendid civilization. And so the
comparison of their past with their present is only the more sad. This
consideration never hinders the Anglo-Indians from hurting the feelings
of the Hindus. For instance, in the unanimous opinion of travelers
and antiquarians, the most interesting building of Hyderabad is
Chahar-Minar, a college that was built by Mohamed-Kuli-Khan on the ruins
of a still more ancient college. It is built at the crossing of four
streets, on four arches, which are so high that loaded camels and
elephants with their turrets pass through freely. Over these arches rise
the several stories of the college. Each story once was destined for
a separate branch of learning. Alas! the times when India studied
philosophy and astronomy at the feet of her great sages are gone, and
the English have transformed the college itself into a warehouse. The
hall, which served for the study of astronomy, and was filled with
quaint, medieval apparatus, is now used for a depot of opium; and the
hall of philosophy contains huge boxes of liqueurs, rum and champagne,
which are prohibited by the Koran, as well as by the Brahmans.

We were so enchanted by what we heard about Hyderabad, that we resolved
to start thither the very next morning, when our ciceroni and companions
destroyed all our plans by a single word. This word was: heat. During
the hot season in Hyderabad the thermometer reaches ninety-eight degrees
Fahrenheit in the shade, and the temperature of the water in the Indus
is the temperature of the blood. As to Upper Sindh, where the dryness of
the air, and the extreme aridity of the sandy soil reproduce the Sahara
in miniature, the usual shade temperature is one hundred and thirty
degrees Fahrenheit. No wonder the missionaries have no chance there.
The most eloquent of Dante's descriptions of hell could hardly produce
anything but a cooling effect on a populace who live perfectly contented
under these circumstances.

Calculating that there was no obstacle to our going to the Bagh caves,
and that going to Sindh was a perfect impossibility, we recovered our
equanimity. Then the general council decided that we had better abandon
all ideas of a predetermined plan, and travel as fancy led us.

We dismissed our elephants, and next day, a little before sunset,
arrived at the spot where the Vagrey and Girna join. These are two
little rivers, quite famous in the annals of the Indian mythology, and
which are generally conspicuous by their absence, especially in summer.
At the opposite side of the river, there lay the illustrious Bagh caves,
with their four openings blinking in the thick evening mist.

We thought of crossing to them immediately, by the help of a ferry boat,
but our Hindu friends and the boat-men interposed. The former said
that visiting these caves is dangerous even by daytime; because all the
neighborhood is full of beasts of prey and of tigers, who, I concluded,
are like the Bengali Babus, to be met with everywhere in India. Before
venturing into these caves, you must send a reconnoitring party of
torch-bearers and armed shikaris. As to the boatmen, they protested on
different grounds, but protested strongly. They said that no Hindu would
dare to approach these caves after the sun set. No one but a Bellati
would fancy that Vagrey and Girna are ordinary rivers, for every Hindu
knows they are divine spouses, the god Shiva and his wife Parvati.
This, in the first instance; and in the second, the Bagh tigers are no
ordinary tigers either. The sahibs are totally mistaken. These tigers
are the servants of the Sadhus, of the holy miracle-workers, who have
haunted the caves now for many centuries, and who deign sometimes to
take the shape of a tiger. And neither the gods, nor the Sadhus, nor
the glamour, nor the true tigers are fond of being disturbed in their
nightly rest.

What could we say against all this? We cast one more sorrowful look
at the caves, and returned to our antediluvian carriages. The Babu and
Narayan said we must spend the night at the house of a certain "chum"
of the Babu, who resided in a small town, three miles further on, and
bearing the same name as the caves; and we unwillingly acquiesced.

Many things in India are wonderful and unintelligible, but one of the
most wonderful and the most unintelligible, is the geographical and the
topographical disposition of the numberless territories of this country.
Political conjunctures in India seem to be everlastingly playing the
French game casse-tete, changing the pattern, diminishing one part and
adding to another. The land that only yesterday belonged to this Raja or
that Takur, is sure to be found today in the hands of quite a different
set of people. For instance, we were in the Raj of Amjir in Malva, and
we were going to the little city of Bagh, which also belongs to Malva
and is included in the Amjir Raj. In the documents, Malva is included
in the independent possessions of Holkar; and nevertheless the Amjir Raj
does not belong to Tukuji-Rao-Holkar, but to the son of the independent
Raja of Amjir, who was hanged, "by inadvertence" as we were assured, in
1857. The city, and the caves of Bagh, very oddly belong to the Maharaja
Sindya of Gwalior, who, besides, does not own them personally, having
made a kind of present of them, and their nine thousand rupees of
revenue, to some poor relation. This poor relation, in his turn, does
not enjoy the property in the least, because a certain Rajput Takur
stole it from him, and will not consent to give it back. Bagh is
situated on the road from Gujerat to Malva, in the defile of Oodeypur,
which is owned accordingly by the Maharana of Oodeypur. Bagh itself is
built on the top of a woody hillock, and being disputed property does
not belong to any one in particular, properly speaking; but a small
fortress, and a bazaar in the centre of it are the private possessions
of a certain dhani; who, besides being the chieftain of the Bhimalah
tribe, was the personal "chum" of our Babu, and a "great thief and
highway robber," according to the assertions of the said Babu.

"But why do you intend taking us to the place of a man whom you consider
as a thief and a robber?" objected one of us timidly.

"He is a thief and a brigand," coolly answered the Bengali, "but only in
the political sense. Otherwise he is an excellent man, and the truest
of friends. Besides, if he does not help us, we shall starve; the bazaar
and everything in the shops belong to him."

These explanations of the Babu notwithstanding, we were glad to learn
that the "chum" in question was absent, and we were received by a
relation of his. The garden was put at our disposal, and before our
tents were pitched, we saw people coming from every side of the garden,
bringing us provisions. Having deposited what he had brought, each of
them, on leaving the tent, threw over his shoulder a pinch of betel and
soft sugar, an offering to the "foreign bhutas," which were supposed to
accompany us wherever we went. The Hindus of our party asked us,
very seriously, not to laugh at this performance, saying it would be
dangerous in this out-of-the-way place.

No doubt they were right. We were in Central India, the very nest of
all kinds of superstitions, and were surrounded by Bhils. All along the
Vindya ridge, from Yama, on the west of the "dead city," the country is
thickly populated by this most daring, restless and superstitious of all
the half-savage tribes of India.

The Orientalists think that the naive Bhils comes from the Sanskrit root
bhid, which means to separate. Sir J. Malcolm supposes accordingly that
the Bhils are sectarians, who separated from the Brahmanical creed,
and were excommunicated. All this looks very probable, but their tribal
traditions say something different. Of course, in this case, as in every
other, their history is strongly entangled with mythology; and one has
to go through a thick shrubbery of fancy before reaching the tribe's
genealogical tree.

The relation of the absent dhani, who spent the evening with us, told
us the following: The Bhils are the descendants of one of the sons of
Mahadeva, or Shiva, and of a fair woman, with blue eyes and a white
face, whom he met in some forest on the other side of the Kalapani,
"black waters," or ocean. This pair had several sons, one of whom, as
handsome as he was vicious, killed the favorite ox of his grandfather
Maha-deva, and was banished by his father to the Jodpur desert. Banished
to its remotest southern corner, he married; and soon his descendants
filled the whole country. They scattered along the Vindya ridge, on
the western frontier of Malva and Kandesh; and, later, in the woody
wilderness, on the shores of the rivers Maha, Narmada and Tapti. And all
of them, inheriting the beauty of their forefather, his blue eyes and
fair complexion, inherited also his turbulent disposition and his vice.

"We are thieves and robbers," naively explained the relative of the
Babu's "chum," "but we can't help it, because this is the decree of our
mighty forefather, the great Maha-deva-Shiva. Sending his grandson to
repent his sins in the desert, he said to him: 'Go, wretched murderer of
my son and your brother, the ox Nardi; go and live the life of an exile
and a brigand, to be an everlasting warning to your brethren!... ' These
are the very words of the great god. Now, do you think we could
disobey his orders? The least of our actions is always regulated by our
Bhamyas--chieftains--who are the direct descendants of Nadir-Sing, the
first Bhil, the child of our exiled ancestor, and being this, it is only
natural that the great god speaks to us through him."

Is not it strange that Apis, the sacred ox of the Egyptians, is honored
by the followers of Zoroaster, as well as by the Hindus? The ox Nardi,
the emblem of life in nature, is the son of the creating father, or
rather his life-giving breath. Ammianus Marcellinus mentions, in one of
his works, that there exists a book which gives the exact age of Apis,
the clue to the mystery of creation and the cyclic calculations. The
Brahmans also explain the allegory of the ox Nardi by the continuation
of life on our globe.

The "mediators" between Shiva and the Bhils possess such unrestricted
authority that the most awful crimes are accomplished at their lightest
word. The tribe have thought it necessary to decrease their power to a
certain extent by instituting a kind of council in every village. This
council is called tarvi, and tries to cool down the hot-headed fancies
of the dhanis, their brigand lords. However, the word of the Bhils is
sacred, and their hospitality is boundless.

The history and the annals of the princes of Jodpur and Oodeypur confirm
the legend of the Bhil emigration from their primitive desert, but how
they happened to be there nobody knows. Colonel Tod is positive that the
Bhils, together with the Merases and the Goands, are the aborigines of
India, as well as the tribes who inhabit the Nerbuda forests. But why
the Bhils should be almost fair and blue-eyed, whereas the rest of
the hill-tribes are almost African in type, is a question that is not
answered by this statement. The fact that all these aborigines call
themselves Bhumaputra and Vanaputra, sons of the earth and sons of
the forest, when the Rajputs, their first conquerors, call themselves
Surya-vansa and the Brahmans Indu-putras, descendants of the sun and
the moon, does not prove everything. It seems to me, that in the present
case, their appearance, which confirms their legends, is of much greater
value than philology. Dr. Clark, the author of Travels in Scandinavia,
is very logical in saying that, "by directing our attention on the
traces of the ancient superstitions of a tribe, we shall find out who
were its primitive forefathers much more easily than by scientific
examination of their tongue; the superstitions are grafted on the very
root, whereas the tongue is subjected to all kinds of changes."

But, unfortunately, everything we know about the history of the Bhils is
reduced to the above-mentioned tradition, and to a few ancient songs
of their bards. These bards or bhattas live in Rajistan, but visit
the Bhils yearly, in order not to lose the leading thread of the
achievements of their countrymen. Their songs are history, because the
bhattas have existed from time immemorial, composing their lays for
future generations, for this is their hereditary duty. And the songs of
the remotest antiquity point to the lands over the Kalapani as the
place whence the Bhils came; that is to say, some place in Europe. Some
Orientalists, especially Colonel Tod, seek to prove that the Rajputs,
who conquered the Bhils, were newcomers of Scythian origin, and that
the Bhils are the true aborigines. To prove this, they put forward some
features common to both peoples, Rajput and Scythian, for instance (1)
the worship of the sword, the lance, the shield and the horse; (2) the
worship of, and the sacrifice to, the sun (which, as far as I know,
never was worshiped by the Scythians); (3) the passion of gambling
(which again is as strong amongst the Chinese and the Japanese); (4)
the custom of drinking blood out of the skull of an enemy (which is also
practised by some aborigines of America), etc., etc.

I do not intend entering here on a scientific ethnological discussion;
and, besides, I am sure no one fails to see that the reasoning of
scientists sometimes takes a very strange turn when they set to prove
some favorite theory of theirs. It is enough to remember how entangled
and obscure is the history of the ancient Scythians to abstain from
drawing any positive conclusions whatsoever from it. The tribes that go
under one general denomination of Scythians were many, and still it is
impossible to deny that there is a good deal of similitude between the
customs of the old Scandinavians, worshipers of Odin, whose land indeed
was occupied by the Scythians more than five hundred years B.C. and the
customs of the Rajputs. But this similitude gives as much right to the
Rajputs to say that we are a colony of Surya-vansas settled in the West
as to us to maintain that the Rajputs are the descendants of Scythians
who emigrated to the East. The Scythians of Herodotus and the Scythians
of Ptolemy, and some other classical writers, are two perfectly distinct
nationalities. Under Scythia, Herodotus means the extension of land from
the mouth of Danube to the Sea of Azoff, according to Niebuhr; and to
the mouth of Don, according to Rawlinson; whereas the Scythia of Ptolemy
is a country strictly Asiatic, including the whole space between the
river Volga and Serika, or China. Besides this, Scythia was divided by
the western Himalayas, which the Roman writers call Imaus, into Scythia
intra Imaum, and Scythia extra Imaum. Given this lack of precision,
the Rajputs may be called the Scythians of Asia, and the Scythians
the Rajputs of Europe, with the same degree of likelihood. Pinkerton's
opinion is that European contempt for the Tartars would not be half
so strong if the European public learned how closely we are related
to them; that our forefathers came from northern Asia, and that our
primitive customs, laws and mode of living were the same as theirs; in
a word, that we are nothing but a Tartar colony... Cimbri, Kelts and
Gauls, who conquered the northern part of Europe, are different names of
the same tribe, whose origin is Tartary. Who were the Goths, the Swedes,
the Vandals, the Huns and the Franks, if not separate swarms of the same
beehive? The annals of Sweden point to Kashgar as the fatherland of
the Swedes. The likeness between the languages of the Saxons and the
Kipchak-Tartars is striking; and the Keltic, which still exists in
Brittany and in Wales, is the best proof that their inhabitants are
descendants of the Tartar nation.

Whatever Pinkerton and others may say, the modern Rajput warriors do
not answer in the least the description Hippocrates gives us of the
Scythians. The "father of medicine" says: "The bodily structure of these
men is thick, coarse and stunted; their joints are weak and flabby; they
have almost no hair, and each of them resembles the other." No man,
who has seen the handsome, gigantic warriors of Rajistan, with their
abundant hair and beards, will ever recognize this portrait drawn by
Hippocrates as theirs. Besides, the Scythians, whoever they may be,
buried their dead, which the Rajputs never did, judging by the records
of their most ancient MSS. The Scythians were a wandering nation, and
are described by Hesiod as "living in covered carts and feeding on
mare's milk." And the Rajputs have been a sedentary people from time
immemorial, inhabiting towns, and having their history at least several
hundred years before Christ--that is to say, earlier than the epoch of
Herodotus. They do celebrate the Ashvamedha, the horse sacrifice; but
will not touch mare's milk, and despise all Mongolians. Herodotus says
that the Scythians, who called themselves Skoloti, hated foreigners, and
never let any stranger in their country; and the Rajputs are one of
the most hospitable peoples of the world. In the epoch of the wars of
Darius, 516 B.C., the Scythians were still in their own district, about
the mouth of the Danube. And at the same epoch the Rajputs were already
known in India and had their own kingdom. As to the Ashvamedha, which
Colonel Tod thinks to be the chief illustration of his theory, the
custom of killing horses in honor of the sun is mentioned in the
Rig-Veda, as well as in the Aitareya-Brahmana. Martin Haug states that
the latter has probably been in existence since 2000-2400 B.C.----


But it strikes me that the digression from the Babu's chum to the
Scythians and the Rajputs of the antediluvian epoch threatens to become
too long, so I beg the reader's pardon and resume the thread of my
narrative.




The Banns Of Marriage



Next day, early in the morning, the local shikaris went under the
leadership of the warlike Akali, to hunt glamoured and real tigers
in the caves. It took them longer than we expected. The old Bhil, who
represented to us the absent dhani, proposed that in the meanwhile
we should witness a Brahmanical wedding ceremony. Needless to say,
we jumped at this. The ceremonies of betrothal and marriage have not
changed in India during the last two millenniums at least. They are
performed according to the directions of Manu, and the old theme has
no new variations. India's religious rites have crystallized long ago.
Whoever has seen a Hindu wedding in 1879, saw it as it was celebrated in
ancient Aryavarta many centuries ago.----


A few days before we left Bombay we read in a small local newspaper two
announcements of marriages: the first the marriage of a Brahman heiress,
the second of a daughter of the fire-worshipers. The first announcement
was something to the following effect: "The family of Bimbay Mavlankar,
etc., etc., are preparing for a happy event. This respectable member
of our community, unlike the rest of the less fortunate Brahmans of
his caste, has found a husband for his grand-daughter in a rich Gujerat
family of the same caste. The little Rama-bai is already five, her
future husband is seven. The wedding is to take place in two months and
promises to be brilliant."


The second announcement referred to an accomplished fact. It appeared
in a Parsi paper, which strongly insists on the necessity of giving up
"disgusting superannuated customs," and especially the early marriage.
It justly ridiculed a certain Gujerati newspaper, which had just
described in very pompous expressions a recent wedding ceremony in
Poona. The bridegroom, who had just entered his sixth year "pressed to
his heart a blushing bride of two and a half!" The usual answers of this
couple entering into matrimony proved so indistinct that the Mobed had
to address the questions to their parents: "Are you willing to have him
for your lawful husband, O daughter of Zaratushta?" and "Are you willing
to be her husband, O son of Zoroaster?" "Everything went as well as it
could be expected," continued the newspaper; "the bridegroom was led out
of the room by the hand, and the bride, who was carried away in arms,
greeted the guests, not with smiles, but with a tremendous howl, which
made her forget the existence of such a thing as a pocket-handkerchief,
and remember only her feeding-bottle; for the latter article she asked
repeatedly, half choked with sobs, and throttled with the weight of the
family diamonds. Taking it all in all, it was a Parsi marriage, which
shows the progress of our speedily developing nation with the exactitude
of a weather glass," added the satirical newspaper.

Having read this we laughed heartily, though we did not give full credit
to this description, and thought it a good deal exaggerated. We knew
Parsi and Brahman families in which were husbands of ten years of
age; but had never heard as yet of a bride who was a baby in
arms.----


It is not without reason that the Brahmans are fervent upholders of
the ancient law which prohibits to everyone, except the officiating
Brahmans, the study of Sanskrit and the reading of the Vedas. The
Shudras and even the high-born Vaishyas were in olden times to be
executed for such an offence. The secret of this rigour lies in the fact
that the Vedas do not permit matrimony for women under fifteen to twenty
years of age, and for men under twenty-five, or even thirty. Eager
above all that every religious ceremony should fill their pockets, the
Brahmans never stopped at disfiguring their ancient sacred literature;
and not to be caught, they pronounced its study accursed. Amongst other
"criminal inventions," to use the expression of Swami Dayanand, there is
a text in the Brahmanical books, which contradicts everything that is
to be found in the Vedas on this particular matter: I speak of the Kudva
Kunbis, the wedding season of all the agricultural classes of Central
Asia. This season is to be celebrated once in every twelve years, but
it appears to be a field from which Messieurs les Brahmans gathered
the most abundant harvest. At this epoch, all the mothers have to seek
audiences from the goddess Mata, the great mother--of course through her
rightful oracles the Brahmans. Mata is the special patroness of all the
four kinds of marriages practised in India: the marriages of adults, of
children, of babies, and of specimens of humanity that are as yet to be
born.

The latter is the queerest of all, because the feelings it excites are
so very like gambling. In this case, the marriage ceremony is celebrated
between the mothers of the future children. Many a curious incident is
the result of these matrimonial parodies. But a true Brahman will
never allow the derision of fate to shake his dignity, and the docile
population never will doubt the infallibility of these "elect of the
gods." An open antagonism to the Brahmanical institutions is more
than rare; the feelings of reverence and dread the masses show to the
Brahmans are so blind and so sincere, that an outsider cannot help
smiling at them and respecting them at the same time.

If both the mothers have children of the same sex, it will not upset the
Brahman in the least; he will say this was the will of the goddess Mata,
it shows that she desires the new-born babies to be two loving brothers,
or two loving sisters, as the case may be, in future. And if the
children grow up, they will be acknowledged heirs to the properties of
both mothers. In this case, the Brahman breaks the bonds of the marriage
by the order of the goddess, is paid for doing so, and the whole affair
is dropped altogether. But if the children are of different sexes these
bonds cannot be broken, even if they are born cripples or idiots.

While I am dealing with the family life of India, I had better mention
some other features, not to return to them any more. No Hindu has the
right to remain single. The only exceptions are, in case the child is
destined to monastic life from the first days of his existence, and in
case the child is consecrated to the service of one of the gods of the
Trimurti even before he is born. Religion insists on matrimony for the
sake of having a son, whose duty it will be to perform every prescribed
rite, in order that his departed father may enter Swarga, or paradise.
Even the caste of Brahmacharyas, who take vows of chastity, but take a
part and interest in worldly life--and so are the unique lay-celibates
of India--are bound to adopt sons. The rest of the Hindus must remain
in matrimony till the age of forty; after which they earn the right to
leave the world, and to seek salvation, leading an ascetic life in some
jungle. If a member of some Hindu family happens to be afflicted from
birth with some organic defect, this will not be an impediment to his
marrying, on the condition that his wife should be also a cripple, if
she belongs to the same caste. The defects of husband and wife must be
different: if he is blind, she must be hump-backed or lame, and vice
versa. But if the young man in question is prejudiced, and wants a
healthy wife, he must condescend to make a mesalliance; he must stoop to
choose a wife in a caste that is exactly one degree lower than his own.
But in this case his kinsmen and associates will not acknowledge her;
the parvenue will not be received on any conditions whatever. Besides,
all these exceptional instances depend entirely on the family Guru--on
the priest who is inspired by the gods.

All the above holds good as far as the men are concerned; but with the
women it is quite different.

Only the nautches--dancing girls consecrated to gods, and living
in temples--can be said to be free and happy. Their occupation is
hereditary, but they are vestals and daughters of vestals, however
strange this may sound to a European ear. But the notions of the Hindus,
especially on questions of morality, are quite independent, and even
anti-Western, if I may use this expression. No one is more severe
and exacting in the questions of feminine honor and chastity; but the
Brahmans proved to be more cunning than even the Roman augurs. Rhea
Sylvia, for instance, the mother of Romulus and Remus, was buried alive
by the ancient Romans, in spite of the god Mars taking an active part in
her faux pas. Numa and Tiberius took exceedingly good care that the good
morals of their priestesses should not become merely nominal. But the
vestals on the banks of the Ganges and the Indus understand the question
differently from those on the banks of the Tiber. The intimacy of the
nautch-girls with the gods, which is generally accepted, cleanses them
from every sin and makes them in every one's eyes irreproachable
and infallible. A nautcha cannot sin, in spite of the crowd of the
"celestial musicians" who swarm in every pagoda, in the form of
baby-vestals and their little brothers. No virtuous Roman matron was
ever so respected as the pretty little nautcha. This great reverence
for the happy "brides of the gods" is especially striking in the purely
native towns of Central India, where the population has preserved intact
their blind faith in the Brahmans.

Every nautcha can read, and receives the highest Hindu education. They
all read and write in Sanskrit, and study the best literature of ancient
India, and her six chief philosophies, but especially music, singing and
dancing. Besides these "godborn" priestesses of the pagodas, there are
also public nautches, who, like the Egyptian almeas, are within the
reach of ordinary mortals, not only of gods; they also are in most cases
women of a certain culture.

But the fate of an honest woman of Hindostan is quite different; and a
bitter and incredibly unjust fate it is. The life of a thoroughly good
woman, especially if she happens to possess warm faith and unshaken
piety, is simply a long chain of fatal misfortunes. And the higher her
family and social position, the more wretched is her life. Married women
are so afraid of resembling the professional dancing girls, that they
cannot be persuaded to learn anything the latter are taught. If a
Brahman woman is rich her life is spent in demoralizing idleness; if
she is poor, so much the worse, her earthly existence is concentrated
in monotonous performances of mechanical rites. There is no past, and no
future for her; only a tedious present, from which there is no possible
escape. And this only if everything be well, if her family be not
visited by sad losses. Needless to say that, amongst Brahman women,
marriage is not a question of free choice, and still less of affection.
Her choice of a husband is restricted by the caste to which her father
and mother happen to belong; and so, to find a suitable match for a girl
is a matter of great difficulty, as well as of great expense. In India,
the high-caste woman is not bought, but she has to buy the right to get
married. Accordingly, the birth of a girl is not a joy, but a sorrow,
especially if her parents are not rich. She must be married not later
than when she is seven or eight; a little girl of ten is an old maid in
India, she is a discredit to her parents and is the miser-able butt of
all her more fortunate contemporaries.

One of the few noble achievements of Englishmen in India which have
succeeded is the decrease of infanticide, which some time ago was a
daily practice, and still is not quite got rid of. Little girls were
killed by their parents everywhere in India; but this dreadful custom
was especially common amongst the tribes of Jadej, once so powerful in
Sindh, and now reduced to petty brigandage. Probably these tribes were
the first to spread this heartless practice. Obligatory marriage for
little girls is a comparatively recent invention, and it alone is
responsible for the parents' decision rather to see them dead than
unmarried. The ancient Aryans knew nothing of it. Even the ancient
Brahmanical literature shows that, amongst the pure Aryans, woman
enjoyed the same privileges as man. Her voice was listened to by the
statesmen; she was free either to choose a husband, or to remain single.
Many a woman's name plays an important part in the chronicles of the
ancient Aryan land; many women have come down to posterity as eminent
poets, astronomers, philosophers, and even sages and lawyers.

But with the invasion of the Persians, in the seventh century, and later
on of the fanatical, all-destroying Mussulmans, all this changed. Woman
became enslaved, and the Brahmans did everything to humiliate her.
In towns, the position of the Hindu woman is still worse than amongst
agricultural classes.

The wedding ceremonies are very complicated and numerous. They are
divided into three groups: the rites before the wedding; the rites
during the ceremony; and the rites after the celebration has taken
place. The first group consists of eleven ceremonies: the asking in
marriage; the comparison of the two horoscopes; the sacrifice of a goat;
the fixing of a propitious day; the building of the altar; the purchase
of the sacred pots for household use; the invitation of guests; the
sacrifices to the household gods; mutual presents and so on. All this
must be accomplished as a religious duty, and is full of entangled
rites. As soon as a little girl in some Hindu family is four years old,
her father and mother send for the family Guru, give him her horoscope,
drawn up previously by the astrologer of their caste (a very important
post), and send the Guru to this or that inhabitant of the place who is
known to have a son of appropriate age. The father of the little boy has
to put the horoscope on the altar before the family gods and to answer:
"I am well disposed towards the Panigrhana; let Rudra help us." The Guru
must ask when the union is to take place, after which he is bowed out.
A few days later the father of the little boy takes the horoscope of his
son as well as of the little girl to the chief astrologer. If the latter
finds them propitious to the intended marriage, it will take place; if
not, his decision is immediately sent to the father of the little
girl, and the whole affair is dropped. If the astrologer's opinion is
favorable, however, the bargain is concluded on the spot. The astrologer
offers a cocoa-nut and a handful of sugar to the father, after which
nothing can be altered; otherwise a Hindu vendetta will be handed down
from generation to generation. After the obligatory goat-sacrifice, the
couple are irrevocably betrothed, and the astrologer fixes the day of
the wedding.

The sacrifice of the goat is very interesting, so I am going to describe
it in detail.

A child of the male sex is sent to invite several married ladies, old
women of twenty or twenty-five, to witness the worship of the Lares and
Penates. Each family has a household goddess of its own--which is not
impossible, since the Hindu gods number thirty-three crores. On the eve
of the sacrificial day, a kid is brought into the house, and all the
family sleep round him. Next morning, the reception hall in the lower
story is made ready for the ceremony. The floor is thickly covered with
cow-dung, and, right in the middle of the room a square is traced with
white chalk, in which is placed a high pedestal, with the statue of the
goddess. The patriarch of the family brings the goat, and, holding him
by the horns, lowers his head to salute the goddess. After this, the
"old" and young women sing marriage hymns, tie the legs of the goat,
cover his head with red powder, and make a lamp smoke under his nose,
to banish the evil spirits from round him. When all this is done, the
female element puts itself out of the way, and the patriarch comes again
upon the stage. He treacherously puts a ration of rice before the goat,
and as soon as the victim becomes innocently absorbed in gratifying his
appetite, the old man chops his head off with a single stroke of his
sword, and bathes the goddess in the smoking blood coming from the head
of the animal, which he holds in his right arm, over the idol. The women
sing in chorus, and the ceremony of betrothal is over.

The ceremonies with the astrologers, and the exchange of presents,
are too long to be described. I shall mention only, that in all these
ceremonies the astrologer plays the double part of an augur and a family
lawyer. After a general invocation to the elephant-headed god Ganesha,
the marriage contract is written on the reverse of the horoscopes and
sealed, and a general blessing is pronounced over the assembly.

Needless to say that all these ceremonies had been accomplished long ago
in the family to whose marriage party we were invited in Bagh. All these
rites are sacred, and most probably we, being mere strangers, would
not have been allowed to witness them. We saw them all later on in
Benares--thanks to the intercession of our Babu.



When we arrived on the spot, where the Bagh cere-mony was celebrated,
the festivity was at its height. The bridegroom was not more than
fourteen years old, while the bride was only ten. Her small nose was
adorned with a huge golden ring with some very brilliant stone, which
dragged her nostril down. Her face looked comically piteous, and
sometimes she cast furtive glances at us. The bridegroom, a stout,
healthy-looking boy, attired in cloth of gold and wearing the many
storied Indra hat, was on horseback, surrounded by a whole crowd of male
relations.

The altar, especially erected for this occasion, presented a queer
sight. Its regulation height is three times the length of the bride's
arm from the shoulder down to the middle finger. Its materials are
bricks and white-washed clay. Forty-six earthen pots painted with
red, yellow and green stripes--the colors of the Trimurti--rose in two
pyramids on both sides of the "god of marriages" on the altar, and all
round it a crowd of little married girls were busy grinding ginger.
When it was reduced to powder the whole crowd rushed on the bridegroom,
dragged him from his horse, and, having undressed him, began rubbing him
with wet ginger. As soon as the sun dried him he was dressed again by
some of the little ladies, whilst one part of them sang and the other
sprinkled his head with water from lotus leaves twisted into tubes. We
understood that this was a delicate attention to the water gods.

We were also told that the whole of the previous night had been given up
to the worship of various spirits. The last rites, begun weeks ago,
were hurriedly brought to an end during this last night. Invocations to
Ganesha, to the god of marriages; to the gods of the elements, water,
fire, air and earth; to the goddess of the smallpox and other illnesses;
to the spirits of ancestors and planetary spirits, to the evil spirits,
good spirits, family spirits, and so on, and so on. Suddenly our ears
were struck by strains of music.... Good heavens! what a dreadful
symphony it was! The ear-splitting sounds of Indian tom-toms, Tibetan
drunis, Singalese pipes, Chinese trumpets, and Burmese gongs deafened us
on all sides, awakening in our souls hatred for humanity and humanity's
inventions.

"De tous les bruits du monde celui de la musique est le plus
desagreable!" was my ever-recurring thought. Happily, this agony did
not last long, and was replaced by the choral singing of Brahmans and
nautches, which was very original, but perfectly bearable. The wedding
was a rich one, and so the "vestals" appeared in state. A moment of
silence, of restrained whispering, and one of them, a tall, handsome
girl with eyes literally filling half her forehead, began approaching
one guest after the other in perfect silence, and rubbing their faces
with her hand, leaving traces of sandal and saffron powders. She glided
towards us also, noiselessly moving over the dusty road with her bare
feet; and before we realized what she was doing she had daubed me as
well as the colonel and Miss X----, which made the latter sneeze and
wipe her face for at least ten minutes, with loud but vain utterances of
indignation.

The Babu and Mulji offered their faces to the little hand, full of
saffron, with smiles of condescending generosity. But the indomitable
Narayan shrank from the vestal so unexpectedly at the precise moment
when, with fiery glances at him, she stood on tiptoe to reach his face,
that she quite lost countenance and sent a full dose of powder over his
shoulder, whilst he turned away from her with knitted brow. Her forehead
also showed several threatening lines, but in a moment she overcame her
anger and glided towards Ram-Runjit-Das, sparkling with engaging
smiles. But here she met with still less luck; offended at once in his
monotheism and his chastity, the "God's warrior" pushed the vestal so
unceremoniously that she nearly upset the elaborate pot-decoration of
the altar. A dissatisfied murmur ran through the crowd, and we were
preparing to be condemned to shameful banishment for the sins of the
warlike Sikh, when the drums sounded again and the procession moved
on. In front of everyone drove the trumpeters and the drummers in a car
gilded from top to bottom, and dragged by bullocks loaded with garlands
of flowers; next after them walked a whole detachment of pipers, and
then a third body of musicians on horseback, who frantically hammered
huge gongs. After them proceeded the cortege of the bridegroom's and
the bride's relations on horses adorned with rich harness, feathers and
flowers; they went in pairs. They were followed by a regiment of Bhils
in full disarmour--because no weapons but bows and arrows had been left
to them by the English Government. All these Bhils looked as if they had
tooth-ache, because of the odd way they have of arranging the ends of
their white pagris. After them walked clerical Brahmans, with aromatic
tapers in their hands and surrounded by the flitting battalion of
nautches, who amused themselves all the way by graceful glissades and
pas. They were followed by the lay Brahmans--the "twice born." The
bridegroom rode on a handsome horse; on both sides walked two couples
of warriors, armed with yaks' tails to wave the flies away. They
were accompanied by two more men on each side with silver fans. The
bridegroom's group was wound up by a naked Brahman, perched on a donkey
and holding over the head of the boy a huge red silk umbrella. After him
a car loaded with a thousand cocoa-nuts and a hundred bamboo baskets,
tied together by a red rope. The god who looks after marriages drove in
melancholy isolation on the vast back of an elephant, whose mahout
led him by a chain of flowers. Our humble party modestly advanced just
behind the elephant's tail.

The performance of rites on the way seemed endless.

We had to stop before every tree, every pagoda, every sacred tank and
bush, and at last before a sacred cow. When we came back to the house
of the bride it was four in the afternoon, and we had started a little
after six in the morning. We all were utterly exhausted, and Miss X----
literally threatened to fall asleep on her feet. The indignant Sikh
had left us long ago, and had persuaded Mr. Y---- and Mulji--whom the
colonel had nicknamed the "mute general"--to keep him company. Our
respected president was bathed in his own perspiration, and even Narayan
the unchangeable yawned and sought consolation in a fan. But the Babu
was simply astonishing. After a nine hours' walk under the sun, with his
head unprotected, he looked fresher than ever, without a drop of sweat
on his dark satin-like forehead. He showed his white teeth in an eternal
smile, and chaffed us all, reciting the "Diamond Wedding" of Steadman.

We struggled against our fatigue in our desire to wit-ness the last
ceremony, after which the woman is forever cut off from the external
world. It was just going to begin; and we kept our eyes and ears wide open.

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