2014년 12월 21일 일요일

Journeys to Venice and the Low Countries 2

Journeys to Venice and the Low Countries 2

Stephen Paumgartner has written to me to buy him fifty
Carnelian beads for a rosary. I have ordered them, but they
are dear. I could not get any larger ones, and shall send
them to him by the next messenger.

As to your question as to when I shall come home, I tell
you, so that my lords may make their arrangements, that I
shall have finished here in ten days. After that I should
like to travel to Bologna to learn the secrets of the art of
perspective, which a man there is willing to teach me. I
should stay there about eight or ten days and then come back
to Venice; after that I should come with the next messenger.

How I shall freeze after this sun! Here I am a gentleman, at
home a parasite. Let me know how old Dame Kormer behaves as
a bride, and that you will not grudge her to me. There are
many things about which I should like to write to you, but I
shall soon be with you.

Given at Venice about the 14th day after Michaelmas, 1506.

--Albrecht Durer

P.S. When will you let me know whether any of your children
have died?  You also wrote me once that Joseph Rummel had
married ----z's daughter, and forgot to mention whose. How
should I know what you mean? If I only had my cloth back! I
am afraid my mantle has been burned too. That would drive me
crazy. I seem doomed to bad luck; not more than three weeks
ago a man ran away who owed me 8 ducats.

PART II: DIARY OF A JOURNEY THE NETHERLANDS (July, 1520-
July, 1521)


Anno 1520

On Thursday after St. Kilian's Day, I, Albrecht Durer, at my
own charges and costs, took myself and my wife from
Nuremberg away to the Netherlands, and the same day, after
we had passed through Eriangen, we put up for the night at
Baiersdorff, and spent there 3 crowns, less 6 pfennigs. From
thence on the next day, Friday, we came to Forchheim, and
there paid for the conveying thence on the journey to
Bamberg 22 pf., and presented to the Bishop a painted Virgin
and a "Life of the Virgin," an "Apocalypse," and a florin's
worth of engravings. He invited me to be his guest, gave me
a toll-pass and three letters of introduction, and settled
my bill at the inn, where I had spent about a florin. I paid
6 florins in gold to the boatmen who took me from Bamberg to
Frankfurt.  Master Lucas Benedict and Hans the painter sent
me a present of wine. Spent 4 pf. for bread and 13 pf. as
tips.

Then I journeyed from Bamberg to Eltman and showed my pass,
and they let me go free. And from there we passed by Zeil;
in the meantime I spent 21 pf. Next I came to Hassfurt, and
showed my pass, and they let me go without paying duty;
I paid 1 florin to the Bishop of Bamberg's chancery.  Next I
came to Theres to the monastery, and I showed my pass, and
they also let me go free; then we journeyed to Lower
Euerheim.  There I stayed the night and spent I pf. Thence
we went to Meinberg, and I showed my papers and was allowed
to pass. Then we came to Schweinfurt, where Dr. George
Rebart invited me, and he gave us wine in the boat: they let
me also pass free. 10 pf. for a roast fowl, 18 pf. in the
kitchen and to the boy. Then we traveled to Volkach and I
showed my pass, and we went on and came to Schwarzach, and
there we stopped the night and spent 22 pf., and on Monday
we were up early and went toward Tettelbach and came to
Kitzingen, and I showed my letter, and they let me go on,
and I spent 37 pf. After that we went past Sulzfeld to
Marktbreit, and I showed my letter and they let me through,
and we traveled by Frickenhausen to Ochsenfurth, where I
showed my pass and they let me go free: and we came to
Eibelstadt, and from that to Haidingsfeldt, and thence to
Wurzburg; there I showed my pass and they let me go free.
Thence we journeyed to Erlabrunn and stopped the night
there, and I spent 22 pf. From that we journeyed on past
Retzbath and Zellingen and came to Karlstadt; here I showed
my pass and they let me go on. Thence I traveled to Gmunden,
and there we breakfasted and spent 22 pf. I also showed my
pass, and they let me go free. We traveled thence to
Hofstetten; I showed my pass, and they let me through. We
came next to Lohr, where I showed my pass and passed on;
from there we came to Neustadt and showed our letter, and
they let us travel on; also I paid 10 pf. for wine and
crabs. From there we came to Rothenfels, and I showed my
pass, and they let me go free, and we stayed there for a
night, and spent 20 pf.; and on Wednesday early we started
and passed by St. Eucharius and came to Heidenfeld, and
thence to Triefenstein; from there we came to Homburg, where
I showed my pass and they let me through; from there we came
to Wertheim, and I showed my letter, and they let me go
free, and I spent 57 pf. From there we went to Prozelten;
here I showed my pass, and they let me through. Next we went
on past Freudenberg, where I showed my letter once more, and
they let me through; from there we came to Miltenberg and
stayed there over night, and I also showed my pass and they
let me go, and I spent 61 pf.; from there we came to
Klingenberg. I showed my pass and they let me through; and
we came to Worth and from there passed Obernburg to
Aschaffenburg; here I presented my pass and they let me
through, and I spent 52 pf.; from there we journeyed on to
Selgenstadt; from there to Steinheim, where I showed my
letter and they let me go on, and we stayed with Johannes
for the night, who showed us the town and was very friendly
to us; there I spent 16 pf., and so early on Friday morning
we traveled to Kesselstadt, where I showed my pass and they
let me go on; from there we came to Frankfurt, and I showed
my pass again, and they let me through, and I spent 6 white
pf. and one thaler and a half, and I gave the boy 2 white
pf. Herr Jacob Heller gave me some wine at the inn.  I
bargained to be taken with my goods from Frankfurt to Mainz
for 1 florin and 2 white pf., and I also gave the lad 5
Frankfurt thaler, and for the night we spent 8 white pf. On
Sunday I traveled by the early boat from Frankfurt to Mainz,
and midway there we came to Hochst, where I showed my pass
and they let me go on; I spent 8 Frankfurt pf. there. From
there we journeyed to Mainz; I have also paid I white pf.
for landing my things, besides 14 Frankfurt thaler to the
boatmen and 18 pf. for a girdle; and I took passage in the
Cologne boat for myself and my things for 3 florins, and at
Mainz also I spent 17 white pf. Peter Goldschmidt, the
warden there, gave me two bottles of wine. Veit Varnbuler
invited me, but his host would take no payment from him,
insisting on being my host himself; they showed me much
honour.

So I started from Mainz, where the Main flows into the
Rhine, and it was the Monday after Mary Magdalen's Day, and
I paid 10 thaler for meat and bread, and for eggs and pears
9 thaler. Here, too, Leonhard Goldschmidt gave me wine and
fowls in the boat to cook on the way to Cologne. Master
Jobst's brother likewise gave me a bottle of wine, and the
painters gave me two bottles of wine in the boat. From there
we came to Elfeld, where I showed my letter and they took no
toll; from there we came to Rudesheim and I gave 2 white pf.
for loading the boat; then we came to Ehrenfels, and there I
showed my letter, but I had to give two gold florins; if,
however, I were to bring them a free pass within two months,
the customs officer would give me back the 2 gold florins.
From there we came to Bacharach, and there I had to promise
in writing that I would either bring them a free pass in two
months, or pay the toll; from there we came to Caub, and
there again I showed my pass, but it would carry me no
further, and I had to promise in writing as before; there I
spent 11 thaler. Next we came to St. Goar, and here I showed
my pass, and the customs officer asked me how they had
treated me elsewhere, so I said I would pay him nothing; I
gave 2 white pf. to the messenger. From there we came to
Boppard, and I showed my pass to the Trier customhouse
officer, and they let me go through, only I had to certify
in writing under my seal that I carried no common
merchandise, and then the man let me go willingly.

From there we came to Lahnstein, and I showed my pass, and
the customs officer let me go through, but he asked me that
I should speak for him to my most gracious Lord of Mainz,
and he gave me a can of wine, too, for he knew my wife well
and he was glad to see me. From there we came to Engers,
which is in the Trier territory; I presented my pass and
they let me go through; I said, too, that I would mention it
to my Lord of Bamberg. From there we came to Andernach, and
I showed my pass, and they let me go through; and I spent
there 7 thaler and 4 thaler more; then on St. James's Day
early I traveled from Andernach to Linz; from there we went
to the custom house at Bonn, and there again they let me go
through; from there we came to Cologne, and in the boat I
spent 9 white pf. and I more, and 4 pf. for fruit. At
Cologne I spent 7 white pf. for unloading, to the boatmen 14
thaler, and to Nicolas, my cousin, I made a present of my
black fur-lined coat edged with velvet, and to his wife I
gave a florin; also at Cologne Fugger gave me wine: Johann
Grosserpecker also gave me wine, and my cousin Nicolas gave
me wine. They gave us also a collation at the Barefoot
Convent, and one of the monks gave me a handkerchief;
moreover, Herr Johann Grosserpecker has given me 12 measures
of the best wine, and I paid 2 white pf. and 8 thaler to the
boy; I have spent besides at Cologne 2 florins and 14 white
pf. and 10 white pf. for packing, and 3 pf. for fruit;
further, I gave I pf. at leaving, and I white pf. to the
messenger.

From there we journeyed on St. Pantaleon's Day from Cologne
to a village called Busdorf.  We lay there over night, and
spent 3 white pf.; and early on Sunday, we traveled to
Rodingen, where we had breakfast and spent 2 white pf. and 3
pf. more, and again 3 pf. Thence we came to Frei-Aldenhoven,
where we lay the night, and spent 3 white pf.; thence we
traveled early on Monday to Frelenberg, and passed the
little town of Gangelt, breakfasting at a village called
Stisterseel, and spent 2 white pf. 2 thaler, further 1 white
pf., and again 2 white pf. From there we journeyed to
Sittard, a pretty little town, and from there to Stocken,
which belongs to Liege; where we had a fine inn and stayed
there over night, and spent 4 white pf. And when we had
crossed over the Maas we started off early on Tuesday
morning and came to Merten Lewbehen [sic]: there we had
breakfast and spent 2 stivers and gave a white pf. for a
young fowl. From there we traveled across the heath and came
to Stosser, where we spent 2 stivers, and lay there the
night: from thence on Wednesday morning early we traveled to
West Meerbeck, where I paid 3 stivers for bread and wine;
and we went on as far as Branthoek, where we had breakfast
and spent 1 stiver; from there we traveled to Uylenberg,
where we stayed the night and spent 3 stivers; from there we
traveled on Thursday early to op ten Kouys, where we
breakfasted and spent 2 stivers; thence we came to Antwerp.

There I sent to Jobst Planckfelt's inn, and the same evening
the Fugger's factor, by name Bernhard Stecher, invited me
and gave us a costly meal--my wife dined at the inn. I paid
the driver for bringing us three, 3 florins in gold, and 2
stivers for carrying the goods.

On Saturday after the Feast of St. Peter in Chains, my host
took me to see the burgomaster's house at Antwerp, which is
newly built and large beyond measure, very well arranged
with extraordinarily beautiful large rooms; a tower,
splendidly ornamented; a very large garden; in short, such a
noble house as I have never seen in all German lands. A very
long new street has been built in his honour, and with his
assistance, leading up to the house on both sides. I gave 3
stivers to the messenger, and 2 pf. for bread and 2 pf. for
ink; and on Sunday, which was St. Oswald's Day, the Painters
invited me to their hall with my wife and maid, where
everything was of silver, and they had other costly
ornaments and very costly meats; and all their wives were
there too; and as I was being led to the table, everyone on
both sides stood up as if they were leading some great lord.
There were among them men of high position, who all showed
me the greatest respect and bowed low to me, and said they
would do everything in their power to serve and please me.
And as I sat there in honour, there came the messenger of
the Town Council of Antwerp with two servants and presented
to me four cans of wine from the Magistrates of Antwerp, who
told him to say that they wished thereby to show their
respect for me and to assure me of their good-will;
wherefore I returned them my humble thanks and offered my
humble services. Thereupon came Master Peter, the town
carpenter, and gave me two cans of wine with offer of his
willing service; so when we had spent a long time together
merrily, till late into the night, they accompanied us home
with lanterns in great honour. They begged me to be assured
of their good-will, and promised that in whatever I did they
would help me in every way; so I thanked them, and laid down
to sleep.

Also I have been in Master Quentin's house, and I have been
in all the three great shooting places. [Editor's note:
Quentin Matsys, the painter].  I had a very splendid dinner
at Staiber's. Another time at the Portuguese factor's, whose
portrait I have drawn in charcoal; I have made a portrait of
my host as well; Jobst Plankfelt gave me a branch of white
coral; paid 2 stivers for butter and 2 stivers to the joiner
at the Painters' armoury.

Also my host took me to the Painters' workshop in the
armoury at Antwerp, where they are making the triumphal
arches through which King Charles is to make his entry. It
is 400 bows in length and each arch is 40 feet wide: they
are to be set up on both sides of the streets, beautifully
arranged and two stories high, and on them they are to act
the plays; and this costs to make, 4,000 florins for the
joiners and painters, and the whole work is very
magnificently done.

I have dined again with the Portuguese factor, and once with
Alexander Imhof. Sebald Fischer bought of me at Antwerp
sixteen "Small Passions" for 4 florins, thirty-two of the
large books for 8 florins, also six engraved "Passions" for
3 florins, also twenty half-sheets of all kinds taken
together at 1 florin to the value of 3 florins, and again 5
1/4 florins' worth of quarter-sheets,--forty-five of all
kinds at 1 florin, and eight miscellaneous leaves at 1
florin; it is paid.

To my host I have sold a "Madonna" picture, painted on small
canvas, for 2 florins Rhenish. I took once more the portrait
of Felix the lute player. 1 stiver for pears and bread; 2
stivers to the surgeon-barber: besides I have given 14
stivers for three small panels, besides 4 stivers for laying
in the white and preparing them. I have dined once with
Alexander the goldsmith, and once with Felix Hungersberg;
once Master Joachim has eaten with me, and his partner also
once.

I have made a drawing in half colours for the Painters. I
have taken 1 florin for expenses. I made Peter Wolffgang a
present of four new little pieces. Master Joachim's partner
has again dined with me. I gave Master Joachim 1 florin's
worth of prints for lending me his apprentice and colours,
and I gave his apprentice 3 crowns' worth of prints. I have
sent the four new pieces to Alexander, the goldsmith. I made
charcoal portraits of these Genoese by name: Tomasin
Florianus Romanus, native of Lucca, and his two brothers,
named Vincentius and Gerhard, all three Bombelli.

I have dined with Tomasin so often: IIIIIIIIIIII. The
treasurer also gave me a "Child's Head" on linen and a
weapon from Calicut, and one of the light wood reeds.
Tomasin Imhof has also given me a plaited hat of elder pith.

I dined once more with the Portuguese; I also gave one of
Tomasin's brothers 3 florins' worth of engravings. Herr
Erasmus has given me a small Spanish mantilla and three
portraits of men. Tomasin's brother gave me a pair of gloves
for 3 florins' worth of engravings. I have once more made
the portrait of Tomasin's brother Vincentius; and I gave
Master Augustus Lombard two of the Imagines. Moreover, I
made a portrait of the crooked-nosed Italian named Opitius.
Also my wife and maid dined one day at Herr Tomasin's; that
makes four meals.

Our Lady's Church at Antwerp is so vast that many masses may
be sung there at one time without interfering one with
another. The altars are richly endowed; the best musicians
that can be had are employed; the Church has many devout
services and much stonework, and in particular a beautiful
tower. I also visited the rich Abbey of St. Michael, where
are the finest galleries of stonework that I have ever seen,
and a rich throne in the choir. But at Antwerp they spare no
cost in such things, for they have plenty of money.

I have made a portrait of Herr Nicolas, an astronomer who
lives with the King of England, and is very helpful and of
great service to me in many matters. He is a German, a
native of Munich. Also I have made the portrait of Tomasin's
daughter, Maid Zutta by name. Hans Pfaffroth gave me a
Philip's florin for taking his portrait in charcoal. I have
dined once more with Tomasin. My host's brother-in-law
entertained me and my wife once. I changed 2 light florins
for 24 stivers for living expenses; and I gave 1 stiver for
a tip to a man who let me see an altar-piece.

The Sunday after the Feast of the Assumption I saw the great
procession of Our Lady's Church at Antwerp, where all the
whole town was gathered together, with all the trades and
professions, and each was dressed in his best according to
his rank; every guild and profession had its sign by which
it might be recognized. Between the companies were carried
great costly gold pole-candlesticks and their long old
Frankish silver trumpets; and there were many pipers and
drummers in the German fashion; all were loudly and noisily
blown and beaten. I saw the procession pass along the
street, spread far apart so that they took up much space
crossways, but close behind one another: goldsmiths,
painters, stonecutters, broiderers, sculptors, joiners,
carpenters, sailors, fishermen, butchers, leather workers,
cloth makers, bakers, tailors, shoemakers, and all kinds of
craftsmen and workmen who work for their livelihood.
There were likewise shopkeepers and merchants with their
assistants of all sorts. After them came the marksmen with
their guns, bows, and cross-bows; then the horsemen and foot
soldiers; then came a large company of the town guard; then
a fine troop of very gallant men, nobly and splendidly
costumed. Before them, however, went all the religious
orders and the members of some foundations, very devoutly,
in their respective groups. There was, too, in this
procession, a great troop of widows, who support themselves
by their own labour and observe special rules, all dressed
from head to foot in white linen robes made expressly for
the occasion, very sorrowful to behold. Among them I saw
some very stately persons, the Canons of Our Lady's Church
with all their clergy, scholars, and treasures. Twenty
persons bore the image of the Virgin Mary and of the Lord
Jesus, adorned in the richest manner, to the honour of the
Lord God. The procession included many delightful things
splendidly got up, for example, many wagons were drawn along
with stagings of ships and other constructions. Then there
came the company of the Prophets in their order, and scenes
from the New Testament, such as the Annunciation, the Three
Magi riding great camels, and other strange beasts, very
skillfully arranged, and also how Our Lady fled into Egypt--
very conducive to devotion--and many other things which for
shortness I must leave out. Last of all came a great dragon,
which St. Margaret and her maidens led by a girdle; she was
extraordinarily beautiful. Behind her followed a St. George
with his squire, a very fine cuirassier. There also rode in
the procession many pretty and richly dressed boys and girls
in the costumes of many lands representing various saints.
This procession from beginning to end, where it passed our
house, lasted more than two hours; there were so many things
there that I could not write them in a book, so I let it
alone.

I visited Fugger's house in Antwerp, which is newly built,
with a wonderful tower, broad and high, and with a beautiful
garden, and I also saw his fine stallions. Tomasin has given
my wife fourteen ells of good thick arras for a mantle and
three and a half ells of half satin to line it. I drew a
design for a lady's forehead band for the goldsmith.

The Portuguese factor has given me a present of wine in the
inn, both Portuguese and French. Signor Rodrigo of Portugal
has given me a small cask full of all sorts of sweetmeats,
amongst them a box of sugar candy, besides two large dishes
of barley sugar, marchpane, many other kinds of sugar-work,
and some sugar-canes just as they grow; I gave his servant
in return 1 florin as a tip. I have again changed for my
expenses a light florin for 12 stivers.

The pillars in the Convent of St. Michael of Antwerp are all
made out of single blocks of a beautiful black touchstone.
Herr Egidius, King Charles's warden, has taken for me from
Antwerp the "St. Jerome in the Cell," the "Melancholy," and
three new "Marys," the "Anthony" and the "Veronica" for the
good sculptor, Master Conrad, whose like I have not seen; he
serves Lady Margaret, the Emperor's daughter. Also I gave
Master Figidius a "Eustace" and a "Nemesis." I owe my host 7
florins, 20 stivers, I thaler--that is, on Sunday before St.
Bartholomew: for sitting room, bedroom, and bedding I am to
pay him 11 florins a month.

I came to a new agreement with my host on the 20th August--
on the Monday before St, Bartholomew's, I am to eat with him
and pay 2 stivers for the meal, and extra for drink, but my
wife and the maid can cook and eat up here.

I gave the Portuguese factor a statuette of a child: besides
that, I gave him an "Adam and Eve," a "Jerome in his Cell,"
a "Hercules," a "Eustace," a "Melancholy," and a "Nemesis;"
then of the half-sheets, three new "Virgins," the
"Veronica," the "Anthony," "The Nativity," and "The
Crucifixion," also the best of the quarter-sheets, eight
pieces, and then the three books of the "Life of the
Virgin," "The Apocalypse," and the "Great Passion," also the
"Little Passion" and the "Passion" on copper, all together,
5 florins' worth. The same quantity I gave to Signor
Rodrigo, the other Portuguese. Rodrigo has given my wife a
small green parrot.



VISIT TO BRUSSELS

On the Sunday after St. Bartholomew's, I traveled with Herr
Tomasin from Antwerp to Mechlin, where we lay for the night;
there I invited Master Conrad and a painter with him to
supper, and this Master Conrad is the good carver in Lady
Margaret's service. From Mechlin we traveled through the
small town of Vilvorde and came to Brussels on Monday at
midday; I gave the messenger 3 stivers; I dined with my
lords at Brussels; also once with Herr Bannisis, and I gave
him a "Passion" on copper. I gave the Margrave Hansen of
Brussels the letter of recommendation which my lord of
Bamberg wrote for me, and I made him a present of a
"Passion," engraved on copper for a remembrance.

I have also dined once more with my lords of Nuremberg. I
saw in the town hall at Brussels, in the golden chamber,
four paintings which the great Master Rogier did; and behind
the King's palace in Brussels, the fountains, labyrinth,
zoological garden. Anything more beautiful and pleasing to
me, more like a paradise, I have never seen.

Erasmus is the name of the little man [Editor's note: not
Erasmus of Rotterdam, but a clerk of Bannisis] who wrote out
my supplication at Jacob Bannisis' house. At Brussels there
is a very splendid town hall, large and covered with
beautiful stonework, with a noble open tower. I have made a
portrait of Master Conrad of Brussels by candlelight; he is
my host. At the same time I drew Doctor Lamparter's son in
charcoal, and also the hostess.

Also I have seen the things which they have brought to the
King out of the new land of gold: a sun all of gold, a whole
fathom broad, and a moon, too, of silver, of the same size,
also two rooms full of armour, and the people there with all
manner of wondrous weapons, harness, darts, wonderful
shields, extraordinary clothing, beds, and all kinds of
wonderful things for human use, much finer to look at than
prodigies. These things are all so precious that they are
valued at 100,000 gulden, and all the days of my life I have
seen nothing that reaches my heart so much as these, for
among them I have seen wonderfully artistic things and have
admired the subtle ingenuity of men in foreign lands;
indeed, I don't know how to express what I there found.

I also saw many other beautiful things at Brussels, and
especially a great fish bone there, as vast as if it had
been built up of square stones; it was a fathom long, very
thick, weighs up to 1 cwt. (15 centner), and it has the form
as is here drawn; it stood behind on the fish's head.

I have also been in the Lord of Nassau's house, which is so
magnificently built and so beautifully decorated. I have
again dined twice with my lords. Lady Margaret sent after me
to Brussels and promised that she would speak in my behalf
to King Charles, and has shown herself quite exceptionally
kind to me: I sent her my engraved "Passion" and such
another to her treasurer, Jan Marnix by name, and I made his
portrait in charcoal. I paid 2 stivers for a buffalo ring,
and also 2 stivers for opening St. Luke's picture.  When I
was in Herr von Nassau's house I saw in the chapel the fine
painting that Master Hugo has made, and I also saw two large
beautiful halls, and all the treasures in various parts of
the house, and the large bed in which fifty men can lie. And
I also saw the great stone which the storm cast down in the
field close to Herr von Nassau. This house lies high, and
there is a most beautiful view at which one cannot but
wonder. And I think that in all German lands there is not
the like of it.

Master Bernhard, the painter, invited me to dinner, and had
prepared a meal so costly that I do not think 10 florins
will pay for it. Three friends invited themselves to it to
give me good company, to wit, Lady Margaret's treasurer,
whose portrait I made, and the King's steward, de Metenye,
and the town treasurer, Van Busleyden; I gave him a
"Passion" engraved on copper, and he gave me in return a
black Spanish bag worth 3 florins. And I also gave a
"Passion" engraved on copper to Erasmus of Rotterdam;
likewise one to Erasmus, the secretary of Bannisis. The man
at Antwerp who gave me the "Child's Head" is called Lorenz
Sterk. I took the portrait in charcoal of Master Bernhard,
Lady Margaret's painter. I have taken Erasmus of Rotterdam's
portrait once more. I gave Lorenz Sterk a sitting "St.
Jerome" and the "Melancholy," and I made a portrait of my
hostess's godmother. Six people whose portraits I painted at
Brussels gave me nothing. I paid 3 stivers for two buffalo
horns and 1 stiver for two Eulenspiegels.

So then on the Sunday after St. Giles', I traveled with Herr
Tomasin to Mechlin and took leave of Herr Hans Ebner, and he
would take nothing for my expenses while I was with him
seven days; I paid 1 stiver on behalf of Hans Geuder; I gave
1 stiver as a tip to the host's servant; and at Mechlin I
took supper with the Lady Nieuwekerke; and early on Monday I
traveled from Mechlin to Antwerp.

AT ANTWERP (September 3 - October 4, 1520)

I breakfasted with the Portuguese factor, who gave me three
porcelain dishes, and Rodrigo gave me some Calicut feathers.
I spent 1 florin and paid my messenger 2 stivers. I bought
Susanna a mantle for 2 florins, 10 stivers. My wife paid 4
florins Rhenish for a washtub, a bellows, a basin, a pair of
slippers, wood for cooking, stockings, a cage for the
parrot, 2 jugs, and for tips; she spent, moreover, for
eating, drinking, and various necessaries, 21 stivers.

Now on Monday after St. Giles' I am back again at Jobst
Planckfelter's, and have dined with him as many times as are
drawn here-IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII.  I gave Nicolas, Tomasin's
man, 1 stiver; I paid 5 stivers for the little frame, and 1
stiver more. My host gave me an Indian cocoanut and an old
Turkish whip; then I have dined IIIIIIIIIIIII more with
Tomasin. The two lords of Rogendorf have invited me; I have
dined once with them and made a large drawing of their coat
of arms on wood, for engraving. I gave away 1 stiver; my
wife changed a florin for 24 stivers; I gave 2 stivers as a
tip. I have dined once in Focker's house with the young
Jacob Rehlinger, and I have also dined once more with him.
My wife has changed a florin for 24 stivers for expenses. I
gave to Wilhelm Hauenhut, the servant of my lord Duke
Frederick, the Platzgraf, an engraved "Jerome," and the two
new half-sheets, the "Mary" and the "Anthony." I gave Herr
Jacob Bannisis a good painting of a "Veronica" face, a
"Eustace," a "Melancholy," and a sitting "Jerome," a "St.
Anthony," the two new "Marys," and the new "Peasants." And I
have given his secretary, Erasmus, who wrote my
supplication, a sitting "Jerome," a "Melancholy," an
"Anthony," the two new "Marys," and the "Peasants," and I
have given him also two small "Marys," and all together what
I have given is worth 7 florins, and I have given Master
Marc, the goldsmith, a "Passion" on copper, and he gave me 3
florins in payment; besides this I have received 3 florins,
20 stivers, for prints. To the glazier Honigen, I have given
four little engravings. I have dined with Herr Bannisis III.
I paid 4 stivers for carbon and black chalk; I have given 1
florin, 8 stivers for wood, and spent 3 stivers more. I have
dined with the lords of Nuremberg IIIIIIIIII. Master
Dietrich, the glass painter, sent me the red colour which is
found in the new bricks at Antwerp. I made charcoal portrait
of Jacob von Lubeck; he gave my wife a Philip's florin. I
have again changed a Philip's florin for expenses.

I presented to Lady Margaret a seated "Jerome" engraved on
copper. I sold a woodcut "Passion" for 12 stivers, besides
an "Adam and Eve" for 4 stivers. Felix, the captain and lute-
player, bought a whole set of copper-engravings and a
woodcut "Passion" and an engraved "Passion," two half-sheets
and two quarter-sheets, for 8 gold florins; so I gave him
another set of engravings. I have taken Herr Bannisis's
portrait in charcoal. Rodrigo gave me another parrot, and I
gave his boy 2 stivers for a tip. I gave Johann von den
Winckel, the trumpeter, a small woodcut "Passion," "St.
Jerome in his Cell," and a "Melancholy." I paid 6 stivers
for a pair of gloves. I paid 3 stivers for a bamboo rod, and
George Schlaudersbath gave me another which cost 6 stivers.

I have dined once with Wolff Haller, who is employed by the
Fuggers, when he had invited my lords of Nuremberg. I have
received for works of art, 2 Philip's florins, and 6
stivers. I have again dined once with my wife; I gave 1
stiver to Hans Denes' boy for a tip. I have taken 100
stivers for works of art.

I made a charcoal portrait of Master Jacob, Lord Rogendorf's
painter, and I have drawn for Lord Rogendorf his arms on
wood, for which he gave me seven ells of velvet.

I dined once more with the Portuguese; I took the portrait
of Master John Prost of Bruges, and he gave me 1 florin; it
was done in charcoal; 23 stivers for a fur coat of rabbit-
skin. I sent Hans Schwarz 2 golden florins for my picture in
a letter sent through the Antwerp Fuggers to Augsburg, I
gave 31 stivers for a red woolen shirt. I dined once more
with Rogendorf. I gave 2 stivers for the colour which is
found in the bricks; and I paid 9 stivers for an ox horn. I
made a charcoal portrait of a Spaniard. I have dined once
with my wife. I gave 2 stivers for a dozen little pipes; I
gave 3 stivers for two little maplewood bowls, two such
Felix gave my wife, and Master Jacob, the painter from
Lubeck, has given my wife another; dined once with
Rogendorf.  I paid 1 stiver for the printed "Entry into
Antwerp," showing how the King was received with a splendid
triumph; the gates were beautifully decorated, and there
were plays, much rejoicing, and beautiful maidens in
tableaux vivants, whose like I have seldom seen. Changed 1
florin for expenses.

I have seen the bones of the great giant at Antwerp; his leg
above his knee is five and a half feet long, and beyond
measure heavy; so were his shoulder blades--a single one is
broader than a strong man's back--and his other limbs. The
man was eighteen feet high, and reigned at Antwerp and did
great wonders, as is set out in an old book which belongs to
the town magistrates.

Raphael of Urbino's effects have been all dispersed after
his death, but one of his disciples, Tommaso of Bologna by
name, a good painter, desired to see me, so he came to me
and gave me a gold ring, an antique with a well-cut stone
worth 5 florins, but I have been already offered twice as
much for it; in return I gave him my best engravings, worth
6 florins. I bought a piece of calico for 3 stivers, I gave
the messenger 1 stiver, and spent 3 stivers in company.

I presented to Lady Margaret, the Emperor's sister [Editor's
note: Actually, she was his aunt], a whole set of all my
works, and have drawn her two pictures on parchment with the
greatest pains and care; all this I have put at 30 florins,
and I have had to draw the design of the house for her
physician, the doctor, according to which he intends to
build one, and for drawing that I would not willingly take
less than 10 florins. I have given the servant 1 stiver, and
I paid 1 stiver for brick colour; I have given Herr Nicolas
Ziegler a "Christ lying dead," worth 3 florins. To the
Portuguese factor I gave a painting of a "Child's Head,"
worth 1 florin. I have given 10 stivers for a buffalo horn;
I gave 1 gold florin for an elk's hoof. I have done Master
Adrian's portrait in charcoal. I gave 2 stivers for the
"Condemnation" and the "Dialogue," 3 stivers to the
messenger; to Master Adrian I have given 2 florins' worth of
works of art; bought a piece of red chalk for 1 stiver. I
have done Herr Wolff von Rogendorf in silverpoint. Gave away
3 stivers; did the portrait of a noble lady at Tomasin's
house. I have given to Nicolas a "Jerome in the Cell," and
two new "Marys." On Monday after St. Michael's Day, 1520, I
gave to Tommaso of Bologna a whole set of prints to send for
me to Rome to another painter, who will send me Raphael's
work in return. I dined once with my wife; gave 3 stivers
for the little tract. The Bolognese has painted my portrait,
which he will take with him back to Rome. I bought an elk's
foot for 20 stivers, besides I paid 2 gold florins, 4
stivers, for Herr Hans Ebner's little panel; dined out;
changed a crown for expenses; dined out. Am taking 11
florins for my expenses to Aachen; have received 2 florins,
4 stivers, from Ebner; paid 9 stivers for wood; gave Meyding
20 stivers for sending my box.

I have taken the portrait of a lady of Bruges, who has given
me I Philip's florin. I gave away 3 stivers as a tip; paid 2
stivers for fir cones and I for stone colour; paid 13
stivers to the furrier, 1 stiver for leather; bought two
mussels for 2 stivers. In John Gabriel's house I have taken
the portrait of an Italian lord, who gave me 2 gold florins.
Bought a portmanteau for 2 florins, 4 stivers.


VISIT TO AACHEN

On Thursday after St. Michael's Day, I journeyed from
Antwerp to Aachen, and I took 1 gulden and I noble with me;
and after passing through Maestricht we came to Gulpen, and
from there to Aix on Sunday; there I have spent up till now,
with the fare and all, 3 florins. At Aachen I saw the well-
proportioned pillars with their good capitals of green and
red porphyry and granite which Carolus [Charlemagne] had
brought from Rome and set up there. These are made truly
according to Vitruvius's writings. At Aachen I bought an ox
horn for 1 gold florin. I have taken the portraits of Herr
Hans Ebner and George Schlaudersbach, and Hans Ebner's a
second time. I paid 2 stivers for a fine whetstone, also 5
stivers for a bath and drinking in company; changed 1 florin
for expenses. I gave the town servant who took me up into
the hall 2 white pf.; spent 5 white pf. With companions,
drinking and bathing; I have lost 7 stivers at play with
Herr Hans Ebner at the Mirror. I have made a charcoal
portrait of the young Christopher Groland, also of my host,
Peter von Enden. I spent 3 stivers in company, and gave the
messenger 1 stiver. I have taken the portraits of Paul
Topier and Martin Pfinzing in my sketch-book.

I have seen the arm of the Emperor Henry, the shirt and
girdle of Our Lady, and other holy relics. I have sketched
the Church of Our Lady with its surroundings. I took Sturm's
portrait. Made the portrait in charcoal of Peter von Enden's
brother-in-law. Have given 10 white pf. for a large ox horn;
gave 2 white pf. for a tip, and I have changed 1 florin for
expenses. I have lost 3 white pf. at play, also 2 stivers;
gave 2 white pf. to the messenger. 1 have given Tomasin's
daughter the painted "Trinity," it is worth 4 florins; paid
1 stiver for washing. I took the portrait in charcoal of the
Kopffrngrin's sister at Aachen, and another in silverpoint.
Spent 3 white pf. for a bath; paid 8 white pf. for a buffalo
horn; 2 white pf. for a girdle: paid I Philip's florin for a
scarlet shawl; 6 pf. for paper; changed 1 florin for
expenses; paid 2 white pf. for washing.

On the 23rd day of October King Charles was crowned at
Aachen; there I saw all manner of lordly splendour, the like
of which those who live in our parts have never seen--all,
as it has been described.

I gave Mathes works of art worth 2 florins, and presented
Stephen, Lady Margaret's chamberlain, with 3 prints. Paid 1
florin, 10 white pf. for a cedarwood rosary; gave 1 stiver
to little Hans in the stable, and 1 stiver to the child in
the house; lost 2% stivers at play; spent 2 stivers, gave 2
stivers to the barber. I have again changed 1 florin; I gave
away 7 white pf. in the house on leaving.

SECOND VISIT TO COLOGNE

And I traveled from Aachen to Julich, and thence to...; paid
4 stivers for two eye-glasses. I played away 2 stivers in an
embossed silver medal of the king. I have given 8 white pf.
for two ox horns. On the Friday before St. Simon and St.
Jude I left Aachen and traveled to Duren, where I visited
the church where St. Anne's head is. Thence we traveled and
came on Sunday, which was St. Simon and St. Jude's Day, to
Cologne. I had lodging, food, and drink at Brussels with my
lords of Nuremberg, and they would take nothing from me for
it, and at Aachen likewise I ate with them three weeks and
they brought me to Cologne, and would take nothing for it.

I have bought a tract of Luther's for 5 white pf. besides 1
white pf. for the "Condemnation of Luther," the pious man,
besides 1 white pf. for a Paternoster, and 2 white pf. for a
girdle, I white pf. for one pound of candles; changed 1
florin for expenses. I had to give Herr Leonhard Groland my
great ox horn, and to Hans Ebner I had to give my large
rosary of cedarwood. Paid 6 white pf. for a pair of shoes; I
gave 2 white pf. for a little skull; 1 white pf. I gave for
beer and bread; 1 white pf. for a "pertele" [braid]. I have
given 4 white pf. to two messengers; I have given 2 white
pf. to Nicolas's daughter for lace, also 1 white pf. to a
messenger. I gave prints worth 2 florins to Herr Ziegler
Linhard; paid the barber 2 white pf. paid 3 white pf. and
then 2 white pf. for opening the picture which Master
Stephan made at Cologne; I gave the messenger 1 white pf.,
and spent 2 white pf. drinking in company. I made the
portrait of Gottschalk's sister: 1 paid I white pf. for a
little tract.

At Cologne, on Sunday evening after All Saints' Day in the
year 1520, I saw the nobles dance and banquet in the Emperor
Charles's dancing saloon: it was splendidly arranged. I have
drawn for Staiber his coat of arms on wood. I gave a
"Melancholy" to a young count at Cologne, and a new "Mary"
to Duke Frederick.  I have made Nicolas Hailer's portrait in
charcoal; paid 2 white pf. to the door porter. I have given
3 white pf. for two little tracts, also 10 white pf. for a
cow horn. At Cologne I went to St. Ursula's Church and to
her grave, and saw the holy maiden and the other great
relics. Fernberger's portrait I took in charcoal; changed 1
florin for expenses. I gave Nicolas's wife 8 white pf. when
she invited me as a guest. I bought two prints for 1 stiver.
Herr Hans Ebner and Herr Nicolas Groland would take nothing
from me for eight days at Brussels, three weeks at Aachen,
and fourteen days at Cologne. I made the nun's portrait, and
gave 7 white pf. to the nun. I made her a present of three
half-sheet engravings on copper.

My Confirmation from the Emperor came to my lords of
Nuremberg the Monday after St. Martin's, the year 1520,
after great trouble and labour. I gave Nicolas's daughter 7
white pf. on departing, 1 florin to his wife, and again 1
ort to his daughter on leaving; and I started away from
Cologne. Before that, Staiber invited me once as his guest,
and so did my cousin Nicolas once, and old Wolfgang once,
and once besides I dined as his guest. I have given
Nicolas's man a "Eustace" on leaving, and his little
daughter another ort, as they took much trouble for me. I
have given 1 florin for a little ivory skull, and I white
pf. for a turned box, also 7 white pf. for a pair of shoes,
and I gave Nicolas's man a "Nemesis" on leaving.

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