2014년 12월 4일 목요일

Unbeaten Tracks in Japan 12

Unbeaten Tracks in Japan 12


Implicit and prompt obedience is required from infancy; and from a

very early age the children are utilised by being made to fetch and

carry and go on messages. I have seen children apparently not more

than two years old sent for wood; and even at this age they are so

thoroughly trained in the observances of etiquette that babies just

able to walk never toddle into or out of this house without formal

salutations to each person within it, the mother alone excepted.

They don't wear any clothing till they are seven or eight years

old, and are then dressed like their elders. Their manners to

their parents are very affectionate. Even to-day, in the chief's

awe-inspiring presence, one dear little nude creature, who had been

sitting quietly for two hours staring into the fire with her big

brown eyes, rushed to meet her mother when she entered, and threw

her arms round her, to which the woman responded by a look of true

maternal tenderness and a kiss. These little creatures, in the

absolute unconsciousness of innocence, with their beautiful faces,

olive-tinted bodies,--all the darker, sad to say, from dirt,--their

perfect docility, and absence of prying curiosity, are very

bewitching. They all wear silver or pewter ornaments tied round

their necks by a wisp of blue cotton.

 

Apparently the ordinary infantile maladies, such as whooping-cough

and measles, do not afflict the Ainos fatally; but the children

suffer from a cutaneous affection, which wears off as they reach

the age of ten or eleven years, as well as from severe toothache

with their first teeth.

 

 

 

LETTER XXXVII--(Continued)

 

 

 

Aino Clothing--Holiday Dress--Domestic Architecture--Household

Gods--Japanese Curios--The Necessaries of Life--Clay Soup--Arrow

Poison--Arrow-Traps--Female Occupations--Bark Cloth--The Art of

Weaving.

 

Aino clothing, for savages, is exceptionally good. In the winter

it consists of one, two, or more coats of skins, with hoods of the

same, to which the men add rude moccasins when they go out hunting.

In summer they wear kimonos, or loose coats, made of cloth woven

from the split bark of a forest tree. This is a durable and

beautiful fabric in various shades of natural buff, and somewhat

resembles what is known to fancy workers as "Panama canvas." Under

this a skin or bark-cloth vest may or may not be worn. The men

wear these coats reaching a little below the knees, folded over

from right to left, and confined at the waist by a narrow girdle of

the same cloth, to which is attached a rude, dagger-shaped knife,

with a carved and engraved wooden handle and sheath. Smoking is by

no means a general practice; consequently the pipe and tobacco-box

are not, as with the Japanese, a part of ordinary male attire.

Tightly-fitting leggings, either of bark-cloth or skin, are worn by

both sexes, but neither shoes nor sandals. The coat worn by the

women reaches half-way between the knees and ankles, and is quite

loose and without a girdle. It is fastened the whole way up to the

collar-bone; and not only is the Aino woman completely covered, but

she will not change one garment for another except alone or in the

dark. Lately a Japanese woman at Sarufuto took an Aino woman into

her house, and insisted on her taking a bath, which she absolutely

refused to do till the bath-house had been made quite private by

means of screens. On the Japanese woman going back a little later

to see what had become of her, she found her sitting in the water

in her clothes; and on being remonstrated with, she said that the

gods would be angry if they saw her without clothes!

 

Many of the garments for holiday occasions are exceedingly

handsome, being decorated with "geometrical" patterns, in which the

"Greek fret" takes part, in coarse blue cotton, braided most

dexterously with scarlet and white thread. Some of the handsomest

take half a year to make. The masculine dress is completed by an

apron of oblong shape decorated in the same elaborate manner.

These handsome savages, with their powerful physique, look

remarkably well in their best clothes. I have not seen a boy or

girl above nine who is not thoroughly clothed. The "jewels" of the

women are large, hoop earrings of silver or pewter, with

attachments of a classical pattern, and silver neck ornaments, and

a few have brass bracelets soldered upon their arms. The women

have a perfect passion for every hue of red, and I have made

friends with them by dividing among them a large turkey-red silk

handkerchief, strips of which are already being utilised for the

ornamenting of coats.

 

The houses in the five villages up here are very good. So they are

at Horobets, but at Shiraoi, where the aborigines suffer from the

close proximity of several grog shops, they are inferior. They

differ in many ways from any that I have before seen, approaching

most nearly to the grass houses of the natives of Hawaii. Custom

does not appear to permit either of variety or innovations; in all

the style is the same, and the difference consists in the size and

plenishings. The dwellings seem ill-fitted for a rigorous climate,

but the same thing may be said of those of the Japanese. In their

houses, as in their faces, the Ainos are more European than their

conquerors, as they possess doorways, windows, central fireplaces,

like those of the Highlanders of Scotland, and raised sleeping-

places.

 

The usual appearance is that of a small house built on at the end

of a larger one. The small house is the vestibule or ante-room,

and is entered by a low doorway screened by a heavy mat of reeds.

It contains the large wooden mortar and pestle with two ends, used

for pounding millet, a wooden receptacle for millet, nets or

hunting gear, and some bundles of reeds for repairing roof or

walls. This room never contains a window. From it the large room

is entered by a doorway, over which a heavy reed-mat, bound with

hide, invariably hangs. This room in Benri's case is 35 feet long

by 25 feet broad, another is 45 feet square, the smallest measures

20 feet by 15. On entering, one is much impressed by the great

height and steepness of the roof, altogether out of proportion to

the height of the walls.

 

The frame of the house is of posts, 4 feet 10 inches high, placed 4

feet apart, and sloping slightly inwards. The height of the walls

is apparently regulated by that of the reeds, of which only one

length is used, and which never exceed 4 feet 10 inches. The posts

are scooped at the top, and heavy poles, resting on the scoops, are

laid along them to form the top of the wall. The posts are again

connected twice by slighter poles tied on horizontally. The wall

is double; the outer part being formed of reeds tied very neatly to

the framework in small, regular bundles, the inner layer or wall

being made of reeds attached singly. From the top of the pole,

which is secured to the top of the posts, the framework of the roof

rises to a height of twenty-two feet, made, like the rest, of poles

tied to a heavy and roughly-hewn ridge-beam. At one end under the

ridge-beam there is a large triangular aperture for the exit of

smoke. Two very stout, roughly-hewn beams cross the width of the

house, resting on the posts of the wall, and on props let into the

floor, and a number of poles are laid at the same height, by means

of which a secondary roof formed of mats can be at once

extemporised, but this is only used for guests. These poles answer

the same purpose as shelves. Very great care is bestowed upon the

outside of the roof, which is a marvel of neatness and prettiness,

and has the appearance of a series of frills being thatched in

ridges. The ridge-pole is very thickly covered, and the thatch

both there and at the corners is elaborately laced with a pattern

in strong peeled twigs. The poles, which, for much of the room,

run from wall to wall, compel one to stoop, to avoid fracturing

one's skull, and bringing down spears, bows and arrows, arrow-

traps, and other primitive property. The roof and rafters are

black and shiny from wood smoke. Immediately under them, at one

end and one side, are small, square windows, which are closed at

night by wooden shutters, which during the day-time hang by ropes.

Nothing is a greater insult to an Aino than to look in at his

window.

 

On the left of the doorway is invariably a fixed wooden platform,

eighteen inches high, and covered with a single mat, which is the

sleeping-place. The pillows are small stiff bolsters, covered with

ornamental matting. If the family be large there are several of

these sleeping platforms. A pole runs horizontally at a fitting

distance above the outside edge of each, over which mats are thrown

to conceal the sleepers from the rest of the room. The inside half

of these mats is plain, but the outside, which is seen from the

room, has a diamond pattern woven into it in dull reds and browns.

The whole floor is covered with a very coarse reed-mat, with

interstices half an inch wide. The fireplace, which is six feet

long, is oblong. Above it, on a very black and elaborate

framework, hangs a very black and shiny mat, whose superfluous soot

forms the basis of the stain used in tattooing, and whose apparent

purpose is to prevent the smoke ascending, and to diffuse it

equally throughout the room. From this framework depends the great

cooking-pot, which plays a most important part in Aino economy.

 

Household gods form an essential part of the furnishing of every

house. In this one, at the left of the entrance, there are ten

white wands, with shavings depending from the upper end, stuck in

the wall; another projects from the window which faces the sunrise,

and the great god--a white post, two feet high, with spirals of

shavings depending from the top--is always planted in the floor,

near the wall, on the left side, opposite the fire, between the

platform bed of the householder and the low, broad shelf placed

invariably on the same side, and which is a singular feature of all

Aino houses, coast and mountain, down to the poorest, containing,

as it does, Japanese curios, many of them very valuable objects of

antique art, though much destroyed by damp and dust. They are true

curiosities in the dwellings of these northern aborigines, and look

almost solemn ranged against the wall. In this house there are

twenty-four lacquered urns, or tea-chests, or seats, each standing

two feet high on four small legs, shod with engraved or filigree

brass. Behind these are eight lacquered tubs, and a number of

bowls and lacquer trays, and above are spears with inlaid handles,

and fine Kaga and Awata bowls. The lacquer is good, and several of

the urns have daimiyo's crests in gold upon them. One urn and a

large covered bowl are beautifully inlaid with Venus' ear. The

great urns are to be seen in every house, and in addition there are

suits of inlaid armour, and swords with inlaid hilts, engraved

blades, and repousse scabbards, for which a collector would give

almost anything. No offers, however liberal, can tempt them to

sell any of these antique possessions. "They were presents," they

say in their low, musical voices; "they were presents from those

who were kind to our fathers; no, we cannot sell them; they were

presents." And so gold lacquer, and pearl inlaying, and gold

niello-work, and daimiyo's crests in gold, continue to gleam in the

smoky darkness of their huts. Some of these things were doubtless

gifts to their fathers when they went to pay tribute to the

representative of the Shogun and the Prince of Matsumae, soon after

the conquest of Yezo. Others were probably gifts from samurai, who

took refuge here during the rebellion, and some must have been

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