2015년 4월 27일 월요일

Common Sense in the Household 3

Common Sense in the Household 3



And you, if timid and self-distrustful, are smitten with shame, keep
your receipt-book out of sight, and cram your memory with ingredients
and measures, times and weights, for fear Mrs. Notable should suspect
you of rawness and inefficiency. Whereas the truth is, that if you have
a mind worthy of the name, its powers are too valuable to be laden
with such details. Master the general principles, as I said just now,
and for particulars look to your marching-orders. Having refreshed
your memory by this reference, pick out from your household stores,
and set in convenient order, within reach of your hand, everything you
will need in making ready the particular compound under consideration.
Then, take your stand in the midstor sit, if you can. It is common
senseoftentimes a pious duty, to take judicious care of your physical
health. I lay it down as a safe and imperative rule for kitchen
use_Never stand when you can do your work as well while sitting_. If I
could have John’s ear for a minute, I would tell him that which would
lead him to watch you and exercise wholesome authority in this regard.
 
Next, prepare each ingredient for mixing, that the bread, cake,
pudding, soup, or ragoût may not be delayed when half finished because
the flour is not sifted, or the “shortening” warmed, the sugar and
butter are not creamed, the meat not cut up, or the herbs not minced.
Don’t begin until you are ready; then go steadily forward, “without
haste, without rest,” and think of what you are doing.
 
“Dickens again?”
 
Why not, since there is no more genial and pertinent philosopher of
common life and every-day subjects? To quote, then
 
“It was a maxim of Captain Swosser’s,” said Mrs. Badger, “speaking in
his figurative, naval manner, that when you make pitch hot, you cannot
make it too hot, and that if you have only to swab a plank, you should
swab it as if Davy Jones were after you. It appears to me that this
maxim is applicable to the medical as well as the nautical profession.”
 
“To all professions!” observed Mr. Badger. “It was admirably said by
Captain Swosser; beautifully said!”
 
But it will sometimes happen that when you have heated your pitch, or
swabbed your deck, or made your pudding according to the lights set
before you, the result is a failure. This is especially apt to occur
in a maiden effort. You have wasted materials and time, and suffered,
moreover, acute demoralizationare enwrapped in a wet blanket of
discouragement, instead of the seemly robe of complacency. Yet no
part of the culinary education is more useful, if turned to proper
account, than this very discipline of failure. It is a stepping-stone
to excellencesharp, it is true, but often sure. You have learned how
_not_ to do it right, which is the next thing to success. It is pretty
certain that you will avoid, in your second essay, the rock upon which
you have split this time. And, after all, there are few failures which
are utter and irremediable. Scorched soups and custards, sour bread,
biscuit yellow with soda, and cake heavy as lead, come under the head
of “hopeless.” They are absolutely unfit to be set before civilized
beings and educated stomachs. Should such mishaps occur, lock the
memory of the attempt in your own bosom, and do not vex or amuse John
and your guests with the narration, still less with visible proof of
the calamity. Many a partial failure would pass unobserved but for the
clouded brow and earnest apologies of the hostess. Do not apologize
except at the last gasp! If there is but one chance in ten that a
single person present may not discover the deficiency which has changed
all food on the table to dust and gravel-stones to you, trust to the
one chance, and carry off the matter bravely. You will be astonished to
find, if you keep your wits about you how often even your husband will
remain in blissful ignorance that aught has gone wrong, if you do not
tell him. You know so well what should have been the product of your
labor that you exaggerate the justice of others’ perceptions. Console
yourself, furthermore, with the reflection that yours is not the first
failure upon record, nor the million-and-first, and that there will be
as many to-morrows as there have been yesterdays.
 
Don’t add to a trifling _contretemps_ the real discomfort of a
discontented or fretful wife. Say blithely, if John note your
misfortune“I hope to do better another time,” and do not be satisfied
until you have redeemed your pledge. Experience and your quick wit will
soon teach you how to avert impending evils of this nature, how to
snatch your preparations from imminent destruction, and, by ingenious
correctives or concealments, to make them presentable. These you will
soon learn for yourself if you keep before you the truism I have
already written, to wit, that few failures are beyond repair.
 
Never try experiments for the benefit of invited guests nor, when
John is at home, risk the success of your meal upon a new dish.
Have something which you know he can eat, and introduce experiments
as by-play. But do not be too shy of innovations in the shape of
untried dishes. Variety is not only pleasant, but healthful. The
least pampered palate will weary of stereotyped bills of fare. It is
an idea which should have been exploded long ago, that plain roast,
boiled, and fried, on Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday,
cod-fish on Friday, with pork-and-beans every Saturday, are means of
grace, because economical. And with this should have vanished the
prejudice against warmed-over mealsor _réchauffés_, as our French
friends term them. I have tried, in the following pages, to set forth
the attractions of these, and their claims to your attention as being
savory, economical, nourishing, and often elegant. In preparing these
acceptably, everything depends upon your own taste and skill. Season
with judgment, cook just enough and not a minute too long, and dish
nicely. The recommendation of the eye to the palate is a point no
cook can afford to disregard. If you can offer an unexpected visitor
nothing better than bread-and-butter and cold ham, he will enjoy the
luncheon twice as much if the bread be sliced thinly and evenly, spread
smoothly, each slice folded in the middle upon the buttered surface,
and piled symmetrically; if the ham be also cut thin, scarcely thicker
than a wafer, and garnished with parsley, cresses, or curled lettuce.
Set on mustard and pickles; let the table-cloth and napkin be white
and glossy; the glass clear, and plate shining clean; and add to these
accessories to comfort a bright welcome, and, my word for it, you need
fear no dissatisfaction on his part, however epicurean may be his
tastes. Should your cupboard be bare of aught more substantial than
crackers and cheese, do not yield to dismay; split the crackers (if
splittable), toast the inside lightly, and butter while hot. Grate your
cheese into a powdery mound, garnishing the edges of the plate. If you
have no beverage except water to set before him, let this be cool, and
pour it out for him yourself, into an irreproachable glass. A dirty
table-cloth, a smeared goblet, or a sticky plate, will spoil the most
luxurious feast. A table well set is half-spread.
 
I have not said one-tenth of that which is pressing upon my heart and
mind, yet I fear you may think me trite and tedious. One suggestion
more, and we will proceed to the details of business.
 
I believe that, so far as care can avail in securing such a result, my
receipts are accurate. But in the matter of seasoning and other minor
details, consult your judgment and John’s taste. Take this liberty with
whatever receipt you think you can improve. If I chance to find in
your work-basket, or upon the kitchen dresser, a well-thumbed copy of
my beloved “Common Sense,” with copious annotations in the margin, I
shall, so far from feeling wounded, be flattered in having so diligent
a student, and, with your permission, shall engraft the most happy
suggestions upon the next edition.
 
For the speedy issue of which, the petitioner doth humbly pray.
 
MARION HARLAND.
 
 
NOTE.
 
In looking over this book the reader will notice certain
receipts marked thus—✠. I do not claim for these greater
merit than should of right be accorded to many others. I
merely wish to call the attention of the novice to them as
certainly safe, and for the most part simple. Every one
thus marked has been tried by myself; most of them are in
frequent, some in daily use, in my own family.
 
My reason for thus singling out comparatively a small number
of receipts from the rest, is the recollection of my own
perplexitiesthe loss of time and patience to which I have
been subjected in the examination of a new cookery-book,
with an eye to immediate use of the directions laid down
for various dishes. I have often and vainly wished for a
finger-board to guide me in my search for those which were
easy and sure, and which would result satisfactorily. This
sort of directory I have endeavored to supply, taking care,
however, to inform the reader in advance that, so far as I
know, there is not an unsafe receipt in the whole work.
 
Of course it was not necessary or expedient to append the
above sign to plain “roast and boiled,” which are in common
use everywhere.
 
 
 
 
SOUPS.
 
 
THE base of your soup should always be uncooked meat. To this may be
added, if you like, cracked bones of cooked game, or of underdone beef
or mutton; but for flavor and nourishment, depend upon the juices of
the meat which was put in raw. Cut this into small pieces, and beat the
bone until it is fractured at every inch of its length. Put them on in
cold water, without salt, and heat very slowly. _Do not boil fast at
any stage of the operation._ Keep the pot covered, and do not add the
salt until the meat is thoroughly done, as it has a tendency to harden
the fibres, and restrain the flow of the juices. Strainalways through
a cullender, after which clear soups should be filtered through a
hair-sieve or coarse bobbinet lace. The bag should not be squeezed.
 
It is slovenly to leave rags of meat, husks of vegetables and bits of
bone in the tureen. Do not uncover until you are ready to ladle out
the soup. Do this neatly and quickly, having your soup-plates heated
beforehand.
 
Most soups are better the second day than the first, unless they are
warmed over too quickly or left too long upon the fire after they are
hot. In the one case they are apt to scorch; in the other they become
insipid.
 
 
 
VEGETABLE SOUPS.
 
 
GREEN PEA. (No. 1.)
 
4 lbs. beefcut into small pieces.
½ peck of green peas.
1 gallon water.
½ cup of rice-flour, salt, pepper and chopped parsley.
 
Boil the empty pods of the peas in the water one hour before putting
in the beef. Strain them out, add the beef, and boil slowly for an
hour and a half longer. Half an hour before serving, add the shelled
peas; and twenty minutes later, the rice-flour, with salt, pepper and
parsley. After adding the rice-flour, stir frequently, to prevent
scorching. Strain into a hot tureen.

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