Autobiography of Sir John Rennie, F.R.S 54

Autobiography of Sir John Rennie, F.R.S 54

Of the city nothing now remains but portions of the broken down walls, a

square tower near the middle, and some remains of foundations scattered

about. Nothing could be more desolate and solitary than the whole scene,

which afforded a most striking contrast to its former magnificence; and

reflecting upon its ancient compared with its present state, one could

not help remarking, “Alas, poor human nature!”

 

On my return from Utica I found that His Highness the Bey had consented

to receive us at his palace, distant about 12 miles from Tunis, on the

following day at eleven o’clock. We accordingly started off about eight

o’clock, and got there in good time, and were presented to the Bey--who

was seated in great state and surrounded by his officers--by our

consul, Mr. Wood, and were most graciously received. The Bey was about

fifty-five, of the middle size, rather stout, with an open, frank, kind

countenance; he conversed in Arabic with the consul in the most genial

manner, said he was glad to see us, and was much pleased at the idea of

having railways in his kingdom, about which he had heard so much; he

said he would give us every assistance in his power, and hoped that this

would lead to other European improvements, that would tend so much to the

prosperity of his country. After about twenty minutes of very agreeable

conversation we retired, very much pleased with his Highness’s courteous

reception. In front of the palace there was an encampment of about 2000

troops of all kinds, horse, foot, and artillery, whom the Bey was in the

habit of reviewing daily.

 

The remainder of the story is soon told. We knew perfectly well that

the French were very jealous of any foreign capital or enterprise being

introduced into Tunis, that the consul was somewhat suspicious of us,

and that he and his spies were always on the watch: we were warned of

this, and advised to be very cautious. So well was our secret kept, that

the French consul had come to the conclusion that we were nothing but a

party of ordinary travellers, and was just getting rid of his suspicions.

On the other hand, the Bey and his Divan had agreed to grant a most

favourable concession, and there can be no doubt that the line would

have succeeded admirably in every respect. But in an evil moment Messrs.

Peto’s agents discovered that they could not make a proper report to

their employers without taking levels. In vain I represented the extreme

imprudence of such a proceeding; that it was a mere surface line, without

the slightest engineering difficulty, and which did not present the least

obstacle; moreover, that the land was to be conceded free of all cost,

and that, in short, there was nothing which men of their experience

could not estimate accurately without taking the smallest measurement.

They persisted in their intention, and, of course, the moment they got

out their instruments the French consul understood the whole affair, and

in an audience with the Bey threatened him with the vengeance of France

if the concession were granted. The poor Bey had no alternative but to

submit, and there the whole matter ended.

 

Before leaving Tunis I saw all the different sights; amongst others,

serpent charming, which is quite a profession. The charmers display

considerable dexterity; indeed, it is a profession of long standing. The

northern portion of Africa, on account of its sandy and sultry climate,

is peculiarly well adapted for the breeding of serpents of the most

venomous kinds, and in consequence they attain an enormous size and

secrete a large amount of poison. The bites of many of the species are

fatal, and hence it has become for ages past the object of certain of the

natives to study the habits and characteristics of these reptiles and the

antidotes to cure any unfortunate individual who may by chance have been

bitten by them; indeed, the Roman armies during their campaigns in this

part of the world were always accompanied by a certain number of these

serpent charmers, and the profession exists at the present day. You find

them in Egypt and throughout the whole of the northern part of Africa,

and they not only practise the cure of serpent bites, but also collect

numbers of them for exhibition to the multitude, to show their power over

them, and by this means realize a considerable amount of money. At Tunis

I saw several of these serpent charmers, who were always surrounded by a

large crowd. They appeared to have complete control over the reptiles;

they always kept their eyes constantly upon them, and regulated their

movements by a wand in their hands, whilst an attendant boy kept time by

beating a small drum and blowing a pipe with a low monotonous sound.

 

I was much surprised to find the natives so very civilized; we walked

about the town, in the suburbs, and in the country, without experiencing

the smallest molestation or incivility. I was told that robberies were

very rare, and that frequently large sums of money were sent by a single

messenger on a dromedary from Tunis to Tripoli without the least danger

of being robbed. There were scarcely any palm trees to be seen, but we

had plenty of the finest dates, which were brought from the interior, I

think Tafilet.

 

Upon the whole I was much pleased with Tunis. It is a country possessing

great natural resources of all kinds, by which, if only properly

developed, this kingdom might be again rendered very powerful, as it

was in the time of the Carthaginians and Romans, when, it is said, it

contained above ten millions of inhabitants, whereas at present there are

little more than two millions.

 

 

 

 

CHAPTER IX.

 

Surveys at Odessa and Vienna--Harbour at Ponta

Delgada--Ramsgate--Dagenham.

 

 

During the latter part of the year I had some correspondence with the

municipality of Odessa about paving their streets and making a complete

system of sewers for the city; and in the spring of the following year I

was requested by the municipality to come to Odessa, and to confer with

them as to the best means of carrying these works into effect, and the

cost of doing so.

 

I accordingly started for that city; but when I arrived at Vienna I could

get no idea as to when the steamer would leave for Odessa. So to pass

away the time I determined to visit the Sömmering Mountain, over which

the Imperial Elisabeth Railway passes on the great line from Vienna to

Trieste. As that part of the line which crosses the Sömmering Mountain

was said to be a great feat of engineering, we determined to visit it,

and certainly it was a very creditable performance. The inclines were

very steep, and the curves very sharp and very numerous. Galleries were

cut through the rock, high embankments made, and bridges thrown across

the ravines, and the railway, having to wind round the sides of the

mountain, was very tortuous. The works, however, upon the whole were not

badly designed or executed, though I will not say whether a better line

might not have been found. The engines used were of the most powerful

kind.

 

Having returned to Vienna we descended the Danube and reached the Sulina

mouth. This mouth of the Danube was selected as the most capable of

improvement, and considerable sums of money have been expended upon

it, under the direction of Sir Charles Hartley, an English engineer of

considerable reputation. The works designed by him consisted of two

embankments or moles carried out from the shore, one on each side, and

nearly parallel to each other, in an E.S.E. direction, for a considerable

distance seaward, having a good opening between them for the entrance.

These moles, by keeping the current of the river to one course, enable

it to act more effectually in deepening the channel and lowering the

bar. The operations of the current are assisted by dredging. The works,

I understand, have been very successful so far, although by no means

completed. An increased depth over the bar and in the channel has already

been obtained, which is a very great improvement, for on account of

the continual shifting of the channel, and its shallow and tortuous

course, it was at all times uncertain and frequently very dangerous.

When we passed, the new channel had not been completed; the captain of

our steamer therefore thought it advisable to come to anchor for the

night and wait until the following morning. There is a wretched place

called the town of Sulina, on the right bank of the river, near the

commencement of the moles; it consists of wooden houses, stores, shops,

and cafés, scarcely two feet above the level of the water, and surrounded

by marshes, that send forth the most pestiferous malaria. I was told that

fevers constantly prevail there, and I am not surprised at it, for a more

abominable, uninviting place I have seldom seen. Next morning we started

for Odessa soon after daybreak, and after a tolerably smooth passage

reached the western harbour at about four o’clock in the afternoon.

 

The view of Odessa, at about two or three miles’ distance, as you

approach it from the sea, is rather pretty and imposing. It is situated

upon a calcareous sandstone cliff, about 40 feet above the sea, with a

very fine row of majestic stone buildings running the whole length from

north to south, having a spacious road, terrace, and garden between them

and the edge of the cliff. The town behind is for the most part well and

regularly laid out, with wide, spacious streets, at right angles to each

other, and some handsome shops and buildings, the residences of tradesmen

and merchants. A great number of wealthy nobles and landowners reside

here in winter, and houses worthy of the name of palaces, such as those

of the elegant and high-born Countess of Urrenzoff, the Governor-General

Prince Manukebè, Count Tolstoy, Mr. Maas the great banker, and numerous

others. The surrounding country, although the soil is rich, is open, with

very few trees, and has therefore a bleak, uncomfortable appearance. The

custom-house officers were very civil, to my surprise, and gave us very

little trouble, so we soon got permission to land, and immediately went

to the Hôtel de Londres, a very fine extensive building, situated in the

grand row of buildings already mentioned facing the sea. Here we obtained

handsome, spacious, well-furnished rooms, and lived very comfortably at a

moderate charge.

 

The next day I called upon the Governor, Count Strogonoff; the Mayor,

Count Tolstoy; the English Consul, Mr. Grenville Murray, and several

members of the municipality. Having paid these formal visits of ceremony,

at which I was courteously received, I immediately began to inquire into

the best mode of paving and draining the city, where the best materials

were to be obtained and their prices; in fact, everything connected with

them.

 

Before proceeding further it may be proper to describe the state of the

place as regards paving and sewers, which may be summed up in a few

words. There was neither one nor the other; and it is difficult to

conceive how such a fine and wealthy city could have been built, or could

have existed so long without them. First, with regard to the streets. The

soil is composed chiefly of sand mixed with clay, which during fine dry

weather makes a tolerably good road, but the moment it becomes saturated

with water, which is the case for a considerable portion of the year, it

is converted into one vast puddle, and the large and constant traffic

cuts it up into deep holes and gullies, so that in a comparatively short