Autobiography of Sir John Rennie, F.R.S 56

Autobiography of Sir John Rennie, F.R.S 56

we observed the country house of our Consul, Samuel Vines, Esq., seated

on the side of a hill about 200 or 300 feet above the lake, embosomed

in woods; and at the foot of the hill, close by the water’s edge, was

a strong sulphur spring, of the same temperature as those of Furness,

and like them covered with clouds of steam. There was not a house near

it all round the lake. It was singular that he should have chosen such

a solitary spot. I continued along the south and west side of the lake,

which is bounded by hills covered with underwood and evergreens, but not

a house nor even a shed to be seen; only a few solitary cattle here and

there with a shepherd boy. Nothing could be more still or lonely; but at

the same time there was a degree of quiet and repose which gave to the

place a certain undefinable charm not to be resisted.

 

Upon leaving the west end of the lake we ascended the hill over a rugged

path, passing through a wild, bare district, and from the summit enjoyed

a fine view of nearly the whole of the island, which was very beautiful

whichever way you looked. We now descended a very steep path, the view

changing at every turn. At last, about five o’clock, we reached the

clean, pretty town of Villa Franca, where I halted nearly an hour for

refreshment.

 

Villa Franca, which is situated in a small bay on the sea-shore, was

formerly the capital of the island, but an earthquake having occurred

near, it was abandoned for Delgada. It is still a thriving little place,

with a rich surrounding country. There is a small island, a few hundred

yards from the shore, where a good harbour might be made.

 

After leaving this town we had to take a rough road along the sea-coast

for a couple of miles, partly through deep sand, and partly among

scattered rocks, for there was no regular road. We then left the shore

and travelled over the cliffs by an equally bad path, sometimes over deep

chasms and sometimes up narrow glens, until we reached the high road

again, at which I was very glad, as it was now dark and very difficult to

find our way. We pushed forward with confidence, and the donkeys went on

very well; after passing through numerous villages, sometimes lying on

the sea-shore, at others a little distance inland, at last, much to my

satisfaction--for I was very tired--we reached Mr. Rodrigue’s comfortable

hotel about midnight. Old Rodrigue was surprised that I had made the

journey of between 50 and 60 miles in so short a time, for although it

was the month of September, the sun was very powerful, and the road for

many miles was very bad.

 

Next day we had another meeting of the Junta, and they made all the

arrangements for laying the first stone of the new harbour, which was to

take place with every possible ceremony. I found that Mr. Plews had got

a couple of large stones well dressed for the purpose; the captain of

the port had provided the sheers and tackle for hoisting them; and the

Junta had procured in the town a very pretty silver trowel, a mallet,

and mortar holder. A commodious gangway had been prepared from the shore

to the west end of the old mole, fronting the area where the new pier or

mole was to commence, according to the plan approved of by the Government.

 

The whole town was in motion at an early hour, and great numbers of

people came in from the neighbouring towns and villages, all dressed

in holiday costume. The town was decorated with the flags of various

nations, amongst which the Union Jack was particularly conspicuous. In

fact, it was considered a great national fête; the more so, as a work

such as this was intended to be had never been previously undertaken in

this island, or in the kingdom of Portugal itself. The procession was

marshalled at the Town Hall, and consisted of the band of the militia of

the island; then the governor, his secretary, and the Junta or committee

that was to conduct the work, followed by the principal officers,

merchants, and deputations from the chief towns in the island, with

their respective banners, closed by a number of the most respectable

inhabitants of the place; the lower orders, clad in their best, lining

the way by which we passed. Upon arriving at the place we were met

by the chief priest of the island, who, in a short prayer, invoked a

blessing from the Almighty that the enterprise might prosper. Then, upon

a signal being given, coins of the realm, together with a printed paper,

containing an account of the proposed work, the names of the governor

and Junta, the engineers, officers, &c., were placed in a glass bottle,

and deposited in the cavity of the lower stone, which had previously

been prepared and set. The governor having placed the glass case in the

cavity, I handed to him the silver trowel, with which he spread out the

mortar. The stone was lowered into its place, and the governor, having

previously adjusted it, gave the usual three taps with the mallet, and

the ceremony was finished with a discharge of guns from the fort, and

numerous showers of rockets from the town, amidst the cheers and vivas

of the bystanders, the band playing the national anthem. In the evening

a very handsome entertainment was given at M. José de Conté’s villa,

on the outside of the town, to which the Junta and principal officers

and merchants of the place were invited. The Portuguese band played

admirably during and after dinner, and we all retired much pleased with

the success of the day’s proceedings. The governor presented me with

the silver trowel, which I respectfully declined, and requested him to

keep it as a memorial of the happy day; which he, after some hesitation,

accepted, and I contented myself with the polished mortar holder, and the

next leading man of the Junta accepted the mallet.

 

The next day I made final arrangements for my departure by the packet,

which was expected on its return from Fayal the day after. In the mean

time I had been considering the danger of the harbour as laid down or

rather approved by the Government, and found that if the west mole was

commenced at the east end of Fort San Bray, as proposed, the fort would

be exposed to a much heavier swell; but that by making it commence at

the western end of the fort this would be avoided; moreover, the sum of

600_l._ would be saved, and the harbour would be made so much larger.

This recommendation was afterwards adopted by the Government. I now took

my leave of the governor and all the authorities, and my other friends,

with my grateful thanks for their kindness and attention.

 

The island, taken in a direct line from north to south, is about 40 miles

long, and from 7 to 9 miles wide. It is entirely volcanic. The east

and west ends exhibit the most powerful effects of the volcanic force.

In the former we see mountains raised to the height of about 3300 feet

above the level of the Atlantic, in the centre of which lies the valley

of Furness, the bottom being occupied by a lake that still sends forth

sulphurous vapours; and in the latter or west end we find mountains

of about 3000 feet, the centre of which is occupied by a large lake,

without any exhibition of existing volcanic action. Near the centre

of the island, which is the narrowest part, there are numerous minor

conical-shaped hills of less elevation, but all more or less showing

their volcanic origin. The island enjoys a most genial climate, and frost

or snow is of rare occurrence; but during the autumn and winter it is

visited by heavy gales from all quarters of the compass, which extend

over a distance of about 100 miles. During this period a great deal of

rain falls, and the climate may be said to be moist, much resembling that

of Madeira. Formerly a good deal of wine was produced here, but since

1855, when the oidium disease made its appearance, the vintage has been

very unsatisfactory; and although a certain quantity of wine, resembling

that of Madeira, is still made for home consumption, none is exported.

The principal productions of the island now are oranges and lemons, of

which vast quantities are annually exported to the north of Europe. The

district where these are produced is restricted to the centre of the

island, commencing at Ponta Delgada, and extending eastward about 7 or

8 miles. On the north it is bounded by the central ridge of hills, and

on the south by the sea, the width being about 3 or 4 miles, so that it

enjoys the full rays of the southern sun. These orange and lemon orchards

are cultivated with the greatest care, and wherever they are exposed to

the east, west, or southern gales are protected by high stone walls. On

the north the hills alone afford sufficient shelter.

 

Towards the latter end of October the season commences, and continues

until about the end of February, during which time the harbour of Ponta

Delgada is continually crowded with shipping, whilst on shore the

inhabitants are busy packing the fruit in boxes; these boxes are made

from the wood brought chiefly from the forests that clothe the mountains

at the eastern end of the island. The vessels in which the fruit is

exported are principally small schooners, built rather short, capital sea

boats, and manned by the best of captains and sailors, who thoroughly

understand their profession. They go to sea in any weather, which is at

times most severe, rarely if ever meet with any accidents on the voyage,

and make the passage to England in from eight to ten days. It is true

they are sometimes driven ashore when they break from their moorings

in the exposed roadstead of Ponta Delgada during heavy gales from the

south-west to the south-east, to which it is exposed; but this will be

obviated by the new harbour, and was one of the objects of its being

made. Sometimes, during the prevalence of these gales, they are obliged

to slip their anchors, and run for shelter to the northern side of the

island, where they occasionally ship their cargoes, which is always done

by means of lighters from the shore. Immediately they are laden they

start with the first fair wind, however strongly it blows; they never

wait for weather, but as soon as laden they put to sea, and generally

make good, indeed, the best of passages.

 

I met a young botanist who had come out in one of these vessels to Ponta

Delgada, for the purpose of making botanical researches in this and in

the neighbouring islands, in the month of March; they had an excellent

passage until they got within about a hundred miles of St. Michael’s,

when he said to the captain, “We shall be there to-morrow.” The captain,

an excellent sailor, looking at the signs of the weather, replied, “I

don’t think so. We are going to have a hard gale from the southward.” He

immediately ordered his mate to well batten down the hatchways, shorten

sail, and make all as snug as possible. The captain was right; the gale

from the south came a few hours afterwards, with a very heavy sea.

 

The young botanist frankly confessed to me that he began to be terribly

afraid at seeing the tremendous sea running after them, and asked the

captain if there was any danger; when the captain coolly replied, “Never

fear: it is only a little loss of time. Go to your berth, and lie there

quietly. We shall get there safe enough, with a little patience.” The

captain then ordered the vessel to be hove-to, and there she lay as

comfortably as possible, never shipping a single sea, although the waves

were running mountains high. After about five or six days she entered

the bay of Ponta Delgada without having sustained the least damage. She

got her cargo of fruit aboard and returned directly, and made one of the

quickest passages that season to England.

 

Besides oranges and lemons, St. Michael’s grows large quantities of

Indian corn, wheat, barley, potatoes, and other articles, of which

she exports largely to Portugal, and is considered the granary of the

kingdom; her exports are much larger than her imports, and she receives

back in retur