Autobiography of Sir John Rennie, F.R.S. 14

Autobiography of Sir John Rennie, F.R.S. 14

and silk in abundance, served little more than to supply the deficiency

when booty was scarce. Such was the general state of Maina, which I

determined to visit. We accordingly left our heavy baggage behind, and I

started early in the morning, accompanied by Demetrius and one baggage

horse. Shortly after leaving Misitra we crossed the frontier, came to a

wild, desolate country with nothing but brushwood, occasionally mixed

with lofty valonia trees, the bark and fruit of which form a valuable

article of export.

 

At midday we halted as usual to give our horses, as well as ourselves,

rest and refreshment; and the ever-active Demetrius, in a comparatively

short time, provided us with a tolerable dinner, and after a couple

of hours’ rest started again on our journey, and passing through the

same kind of wild country we reached the sea-shore and the ruins of the

ancient Marathonesi, the greatest portion of which had been submerged by

an earthquake, and we could distinctly discern the buildings through the

clear water. A few miles farther we reached the neat little seaport town,

the modern Marathonesi, the capital of the tribe of which Demetrius’s

friend was the chief. In the course of our day’s journey we were not

a little inspired and gratified that we had not been attacked or even

molested, notwithstanding the dismal accounts and forebodings which had

been made to us. It is true we met a few rough, straggling, armed fellows

on the way, and they looked at us with a fierce, independent scowl, but

seeing us well armed and prepared to meet them, passed on without further

remark.

 

We arrived, soon after sunset, at the house of the chief, and were most

kindly received by him, and he showed us into some clean comfortable

bedrooms, furnished, to my surprise, in the French fashion. The fact is,

the chief was a great merchant and trader with the Ionian Islands, Italy,

and France, and possessed considerable wealth, and was far more civilized

than the rest of his countrymen. He was a fine handsome courteous

young man, about twenty-eight, of the middle size, and extremely

well-proportioned, sinewy, active, and vigorous. His countenance was

oval, of the true Greek form, with dark piercing eyes, black eyebrows

and lashes, well-defined nose, small mouth, with compressed lips, and

beautiful white teeth; with long moustaches, curling several inches below

his chin, and his head covered with a profusion of black hair hanging

down in natural ringlets; he wore no beard, his chin being closely

shaven; in fact, he was a very dashing personage. He gave us an excellent

supper, and entertained us with numerous anecdotes and accounts of the

country and its inhabitants; he asked me how I could think of venturing

among such a lawless people, whom no stranger ever visited, and strongly

recommended me to go back, as after having learned that I proposed to

cross the country and return by the opposite coast, he said the journey

would be attended with considerable danger, and he feared that he could

not protect me. Both Demetrius, who sat at table with us, and myself told

him that it would be disgraceful to go back, and if he would furnish us

with an escort of some of his followers they should be properly paid,

and we had no doubt but that we should get through our journey without

difficulty. Finding that we were determined to proceed, he opposed our

intentions no more, but said he would do the best he could for us. Being

rather tired with our day’s ride, we went to bed and slept soundly until

soon after sunrise the next morning, when we were up and stirring. Our

friend, the chief, told me that he would provide me with an escort of

twenty-five well-armed men, whom I might safely rely upon. We accordingly

breakfasted, and went to look over the town, which was the neatest and

cleanest I had seen in Greece. There were several vessels taking in and

delivering their cargoes; in fact, the little town was bustling with

activity and industry. All my escort, consisting of five-and-twenty

stout, active, wiry fellows, were mustered outside of the town waiting

for me, and a fierce, rough, savage-looking set they were, armed to the

teeth with guns, pistols, and yatagans, clad a good deal like Albanians,

with kilts, jackets, hose, and red skull-caps, with long moustaches,

close-shaven chins, and long hair falling down their shoulders. Most of

them had several scars from wounds received in their various fights.

Before starting I examined their arms to see if they were properly loaded

and flinted, as it frequently happened that they were in bad order and

would not go off when they pulled the trigger, and often burst, so that

they did more harm to themselves than to their enemies. I found the arms,

however, better than I expected, and giving some of them fresh flints

and good powder and ball, they were properly loaded. I then said a few

words of encouragement, which their chief, who was with me, interpreted,

and told them to behave like men, and take care of me, and they would be

properly paid. The men answered one and all, that there was no fear but

that they would take good care of the English Milord, as they called me,

and off we started in high spirits for the opposite side of the peninsula.

 

The view from Marathonesi was extremely beautiful. On the north the noble

Mount Taygetus, with its numerous peaks, deeply-indented gorges, ravines,

and its sides covered densely with woods, rose towering above the clouds.

At its base there was a torrent running east and west through a valley

bordered by precipitous cliffs towards the sea. On the south side of the

torrent was a narrow road, and the perpendicular cliff on the south side

of the road was full of caverns admirably adapted for the concealment

of brigands, pirates, and bad characters of all kinds, of which so many

abounded in the country. We had to pass through this gorge, and at

the time there was a great number of these vagabonds concealed in the

caves, waiting to intercept the merchants going backwards and forwards

to and from Marathonesi. I was warned of this, and determined to drive

these rascals, if there were any, out of the caverns before we passed.

I accordingly told about eight or ten of the most active of my escort

to cross the river and climb the base of the hill, and to fire into the

caves, whilst I and the main body proceeded along the road; and as we

searched each cave as we advanced, if any robbers were concealed in them,

they could not escape; and if they attempted to do so, they were exposed

to two fires. We were thus proceeding cautiously through the Pass, and

had scarcely well entered when my men on the opposite side of the valley

commenced firing into the caverns, and at first they were sharply replied

to by the concealed bandits. This did not last long, for the robbers,

who were not equal to us in numbers, found that they were out-manœuvred,

and if they remained in the caves must all be taken, and they expected

little mercy from their captors. They therefore left the caves, and fled

as fast as possible, upon seeing which my people on both sides of the

torrent followed them with equal speed, firing at random whilst they

went forward. This rude and desultory mode of fighting was fortunately

attended with no slaughter, although several flesh wounds occurred. My

party being the stronger, we overtook the brigands, and made three or

four prisoners. At this my people were delighted, and at the same time

exasperated against them, and wished to shoot them. I at once interposed,

but found that my men were so excited with the fight and subsequent

pursuit, that it was extremely difficult to control them. However, after

a little while I pacified them by saying that it was unmanly and unworthy

to kill an enemy after he had surrendered. This did not seem to have much

impression on them, as they considered the conquered their lawful prize,

and that they might do what they liked with them. I ultimately quieted

them by saying that I would pay a good sum per head for each of the four

taken, which they willingly accepted, fearing that if they refused I

should report them to their chief. I therefore released the captives,

who upon their knees thanked me for their lives. Having reached the end

of the Pass, and the road being tolerably clear to the end of the day’s

journey, I dismissed my escort with about ten shillings each, besides

a capital dinner, and a good sum for the captives, with which they

were pleased, and left me with many thanks and cheers, expressed very

cordially in their peculiar and rough manner.

 

Having parted with my escort, I rode leisurely forward with Demetrius

and the baggage horse, until we reached the castle of a capitano, to

whom I had a letter of introduction from my excellent friend the Captain

of Marathonesi. On our arrival, which was just as the sun was setting,

we found the chief surrounded by numerous followers seated on stone

benches fixed to the gate of the outer wall by which the castle was

surrounded. The old chief and his attendants were quietly enjoying their

pipes and coffee, whilst the cowherds were driving in the cattle for

the night, just as described in Homer. The chief and his suite arose to

meet me as I advanced and presented my letter of introduction, which he

received with much dignity, and welcomed me most kindly to his castle,

and certainly a wild, rough place it was. Within the outer wall was

placed the keep or castle, consisting of a great square tower massively

built, containing a few rough apartments with little or no furniture

except a few mattresses and cushions, which were removed during the day.

The space between the main tower or residence was filled with numerous

outhouses and sheds for the cattle and servants and guards of the chief.

After a short conversation we adjourned to the inner castle, and were

shown into the principal room, about 30 feet square, with divers rows

of low cushions placed all round against the walls. Directly after our

arrival, a low table was brought in, and the chief, his attendants,

myself, and servant Demetrius, to the number of about a dozen, sat down

cross-legged to supper, which was immediately served. This consisted of

stewed mutton, with vegetables, roast game, sweets, and fruits, which

for the most part we ate with our fingers. Before each guest was placed

a bottle full of wine, but there were no glasses on the table, so that

one had no alternative but to drink out of the bottle, which was refilled

several times with good red wine. After dinner we took to our pipes and

coffee, during which we had a good deal of agreeable conversation, which

was chiefly devoted to inquiries about England, in which they appeared to

take the greatest interest. After having well supped, and having smoked

and conversed as long as we felt it agreeable, one by one we dropped

off to sleep upon our mattresses, armed, and without undressing, ready

for a surprise at any moment. I soon fell asleep, and awoke at daybreak

thoroughly refreshed. We all got up, shook ourselves, washed, and took

coffee and a pipe, and then strolled about till breakfast. This castle

is situated on a fine bay on the sea-shore, near the base of Taygetus.

Outside the walls of the castle there is a straggling village. Besides

fishing-boats, there were several others of a more suspicious character,

being sharply built, and having the appearance of pirates. We got a

capital breakfast with the old chief; afterwards rowed in the bay; and

then taking a hearty farewell of my worthy host, started for Kitriai,

the castle of the Bey, who was the nominal chief of the whole of Maina.

We reached Kitriai a little before sunset, and were most kindly received

by the Bey, a fine old warrior, about 5 feet 10 inches high, well built,

square, and muscular, with an open, well-developed Greek countenance,

thick moustache, and flowing white beard. There was something mild and

gentlemanlike in his manner, very different to any other we had met. We

were shown to our apartments, which were very comfortable, overlooking

the sea and surrounding coasts. I spent the next day very agreeably in

looking about the adjacent country, which was very pretty, but not so

wild and grand as that nearer to Taygetus. Besides the Bey, there were

several of his counsellors, his secretary, and one or two Greek priests,

all acc