Autobiography of Sir John Rennie, F.R.S. 10
I here made the acquaintance of Captain Smyth, of the Navy, and his
amiable and accomplished wife. Captain Smyth was then employed in making
a survey of the Ionian Islands for the British Government, which was
afterwards published; and certainly for elaborateness of detail and
completeness of execution it has seldom been surpassed. Every plate
is ornamented with a view of the architectural remains of the most
remarkable buildings in the district, and also views of the coast,
which were drawn by Mrs. Smyth with great taste, beauty, and fidelity,
and form an important feature in this great work. Captain (afterwards
Admiral) Smyth was a man of considerable scientific acquirements; and
after having been most actively employed in different parts of the world
(always with distinction), he retired to Bedford, where he erected an
observatory, and published his celebrated astronomical observations,
which, in addition to his public service, entitle him to a high place
among literary, scientific, and professional men. He was of a most
amiable and jovial disposition, ever ready for fun and amusement whenever
they did not interfere with his duties; he was, moreover, always ready to
serve a friend, and was universally beloved and respected by his numerous
acquaintance. For myself, I regarded him as a valuable and sincere
friend, whose loss I afterwards most deeply regretted.
Count Lunzi, one of the Greek nobles, a most agreeable and talented
young man, and a large proprietor on the island, who had travelled
with us, invited me to his country house, and I set off with my friend
the Chevalier Bronsted to pay him a visit on the following day, the
10th February. We started on horseback on a fine day, and after riding
through a rich, level plain for about ten miles, we reached the volcanic
pitch-wells, and on our return found Count Lunzi awaiting our arrival
at his Villa Sarachina. He received us most cordially, and conducted us
into the house, and we were introduced to his family, by whom we were
most hospitably entertained. We then took a kind farewell of our host at
5 P.M., mounted our horses, and proceeded homewards. At first we rode
along leisurely, and gradually quickened our pace; at last we got into a
full gallop. My horse, which was little better than a pony, although a
very handsome, strong, well-made animal, by this time became so excited
that he fairly got the better of me, and proceeded at a furious rate,
so that I lost all control over him. Away he went helter-skelter over
land and water, driving all before him. In vain I attempted to stop
him. At last, finding it useless, I let him have his way; and arriving
at the bay of Zante, he made direct for the sea. I allowed him to
proceed until he began to swim; then, finding he was in no disposition
to return, I dismounted, and partly swam, partly waded ashore, where I
awaited his return; he soon got tired of swimming, and came to land. I
then caught him, and mounted, and returned to Zante. My friend Bronsted,
who was completely distanced, joined me as I remounted, and we rode back
together. As we entered the town I saw a number of soldiers looking on
and laughing; I did not know why. But it appeared that this pony was
noted throughout the place for his tricks, and they wondered how, after
venturing upon his back (which I certainly should not have done if I had
known his vicious character), I had come back safe and sound. However, I
had punished him pretty well, and he became quieter afterwards. We had
a hearty laugh at the adventure; and, being thoroughly drenched to the
skin, I changed my clothes, and joined Sir Patrick Ross’s dinner-party,
when again everybody laughed at me, and congratulated me upon my happy
escape.
Before quitting this subject I cannot help saying a few words about
my friend Bronsted, the Dane. He was a most excellent person, and a
first-rate scholar and antiquary, well known for his researches. He had
acquired some most valuable bronzes, being portions of helmets found at
Cortona, of which he published an elaborate account. The figures and
other ornaments are most elaborate in design and execution; in fact, they
are masterpieces of art, and were afterwards bought by the British Museum
(for a considerable sum), where, I believe, they still remain.
I made several other excursions to various parts of the island; amongst
others, to the top of the mountain which forms the south-west promontory
of the bay. The summit rises far above the Mediterranean, and the view
from it is magnificent, commanding the whole of the beautiful island,
which lies at its base like a rich garden, and some other islands and
adjacent coasts.
The inhabitants are a good-looking, active, and industrious race, but,
like their neighbours, inclined to be very turbulent, and require to be
kept in order by the strong arm of the law.
While here, just at the equinox, we had, as usual, some very severe
storms; and one night I was roused from my sleep with a violent shaking
of the bed, which lasted several seconds. It was at the same time raining
tremendously, and blowing very hard, accompanied by violent thunder
and lightning. I jumped out of bed, not knowing what it was; the house
trembled, and I thought it was coming down. The other inmates were also
alarmed. After waiting anxiously for some time the storm abated. I
went to bed again, and slept soundly until morning, and then inquired
of the landlord the cause, when he informed me that it was the shock
of an earthquake, which they frequently felt in the island; and on the
following day we learned that the same earthquake had been most severely
felt at the neighbouring island of Santa Maura, that many houses had been
thrown down, and a number of the unfortunate inhabitants destroyed. I
had frequently been told by persons who had lived in volcanic countries
of the extraordinary sensation produced by earthquakes on the human
frame, but until I had experienced it I never could appreciate its
effects; certainly they are most remarkable; the whole nervous system is
convulsed, and one fancies that the last hour has arrived, so that it
takes some time before the system recovers its usual tone. I certainly
should not wish to experience another shock, and was extremely happy to
have escaped with nothing more than a shaking and a severe fright.
Having now spent fourteen days very agreeably, being most kindly
entertained by the Governor, Sir Patrick Ross, the officers of the 75th,
and others, and having seen enough of Zante, I was anxious to proceed
on my journey, only waiting for a vessel to take me to Greece, when
fortunately I heard that an English mercantile brig, commanded by Captain
Burgess, a rough old Scotchman, was about to sail for Patras, so I at
once took my leave of Sir Patrick Ross, his family, and all my other kind
friends, packed up my baggage, embarked at 3 P.M. on the 23rd March, and
bade adieu to Zante. After a pleasant passage, but rough accommodation,
we arrived at the entrance to the Gulf of Corinth, and anchored in
the roadstead about a mile from the shore. I paid my passage, landed,
proceeded up to the town, called upon Mr. Green, the Consul, and soon
found tolerably comfortable quarters in a Greek house, but the beds were
sadly infested with bugs, which annoyed me much. Before leaving Zante, I
ought to say that I here engaged a Greek, who had been well recommended
to me. His name was Demetrius Papandriopolo. He was about thirty-five,
of the middle size, sharp, active, sober, intelligent, and honest, and
served me faithfully through the greater part of my journey, for above
twelve months, until I returned to Malta on my way back to England. I
found him a most valuable servant, and he rendered me the most essential
services.
Patras was then a trading town of some importance, in fact, the principal
one in the Morea, and it contained a considerable number of inhabitants,
almost wholly Greeks, without including the Turkish garrison. It is
situated on a hill about a quarter of a mile from the gulf of the same
name, where there is a small rubble jetty for boats to land their goods,
&c. The roadstead outside is safe and well protected. The town is
surrounded by a rich, fertile plain, well cultivated with olives, vines,
and currants. The entrance to the Gulf of Corinth is protected by two
old castles, the distance between them being about a mile and a half;
and three miles east is the modern town of Lepanto (it was formerly the
ancient Naupactus), celebrated for the victory over the Turks by John of
Austria; it contains 2000 souls; the surrounding views are very fine.
The town was under the command of a Turkish Governor, and is situated
upon the side of a hill rising to the east, encompassed by a rude wall
and ditch, and crowned at the summit by a citadel, in which the Governor
and the garrison resided. Besides the citadel there were no remarkable
buildings of any kind: the streets were narrow and dirty. There were a
few mosques interspersed here and there, whose graceful minarets, rising
above the mass, gave the place a most picturesque appearance. The town
contained numerous bazaars, where all the trade of the place was carried
on, and the neighbourhood of the main street was filled with cafés,
crowded with Greeks, Turks, Ionians, French, English, and various other
nations, all smoking their long pipes, drinking coffee, sherbet, and
various other liquors, apparently in great comfort. The Turk, as lord
supreme, moved leisurely about with the most solemn dignity, having
the greatest contempt for his neighbours, and every now and then, as
a Christian passed by, he greeted him with a lofty scowl, as if he
considered him unworthy of notice, uttering the simple word Giaour! and
passed on without further ceremony. I frequently wandered amongst the
bazaars, then to me a perfectly novel sight, and was much amused with
the gravity and solemn dignity with which the Turks sat cross-legged
behind their counters; if you asked for any of their wares, they quietly,
with a monosyllable, ordered their assistant to show it to you, as if
they considered it a favour. This was so different to what I had been
accustomed to in the civil, well-bred shopkeepers in Europe, that I
could not help laughing outright, which I soon found would not do, as it
gave great offence.
One morning, whilst walking along the shore in front of the roadstead,
whom should I stumble upon but my old friend Captain Smyth, who had come
to Patras on a surveying expedition in one of the small auxiliary boats
attached to his larger vessel, which lay at anchor in the roadstead. This
auxiliary boat, although small, was fitted up with every convenience
for the purpose, and adapted to enter shoal water, in order to complete
the details of the survey. In this he was accompanied by one or two
assistants, and a few men to work it, so that he could be absent from
his ship for several days without inconvenience. Captain Smyth was
delighted to see me, and asked me to dine with him on board his boat,
and I agreed to, with great pleasure. I accordingly went there at the
time appointed, and amongst the guests met Captain Hunter and his wife,
and our worthy Consul (Mr. Green). We had a most cordial welcome and an
excellent dinner, and afterwards passed a delightful evening. Towards
sunset we adjourned to the beach in order to take ices, which we got
from the town, and enjoy ourselves by smoking our cigars. Whilst we were
thus happily seated, laughing and talking together, we were surrounded
by numerous Greeks from the town, amongst whom were several Turkish
soldiers, armed to the teeth, and carrying their long pipes, which they
never abandoned for a moment. The jolly old Captain said, “Now I will
astonish these fellows,” and immediately dispatched one of his officers
for his seven-barrelled pistol, which was brought, and duly loaded. He
then told his interpreter to inform the Turks that this was a pistol
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