Autobiography of Sir John Rennie, F.R.S. 9

Autobiography of Sir John Rennie, F.R.S. 9

At Terracina we were terrified with the account of the brigands whom

we should have to encounter in crossing the spur of the Apennines

before we entered the kingdom of Naples. I here examined the old Roman

port, consisting of two artificial piers of stone carried out from the

shore, with the entrance pointing west. Both piers are long, and are

well constructed of solid masonry, with a parapet and roadway; there

being large mooring stones, with holes through their extremities, fixed

solidly into the inner or quay walls of each pier. Upon the whole this

is a substantial work, although, as the piers are curved, they are

badly adapted for breaking the waves on the outside, and for preserving

tranquillity within the harbour. The whole space within and without the

piers was filled up with sand to within two feet of the quay walls.

It is a common error, even at the present day, to make curved piers;

the consequence is, that when the waves strike them they accumulate as

they move forward, until at length they break with increased force and

carry all before them. The same takes place with the waves entering the

harbour, which produce such a degree of agitation within that vessels

cannot lie in safety; whereas by making the piers in several straight

arms the waves strike them on the outside, and they are broken, and

neutralize each other at the angles.

 

I reached Naples through a road closely patrolled by soldiers, with

blockhouses for ten or twelve men at very short intervals. Being bound

for Greece, my time was very short, yet I managed to ascend Vesuvius and

visit Herculaneum with Lord Guildford, as well as the Museo Borbonico as

often as possible.

 

I examined the modern harbour of Naples, and I doubt if anything could

be more badly designed. There are two small piers, the entrance between

which is difficult; it is exposed to the prevalent and dangerous winds,

and is scarcely safe inside. This is the more extraordinary, because

the numerous remains of the ancient harbours of the Romans, dispersed

throughout the bay, might have served as models for a port adapted

for all the requirements of modern trade as well as for war vessels.

The harbour must be improved before Naples can be provided with that

accommodation which her increasing trade imperatively requires.

 

I started from Naples with several others on the 31st January, 1820, and

after an alarm from a threatened attack by brigands on the summit of the

pass of Baveno, from which we were rescued by the timely arrival of the

Receiver-General of the province, on his official journey, accompanied

by a numerous escort of dragoons. We reached Lecce, the capital of the

province, on the evening of the 8th February, having been eleven days on

the journey, a distance of about 300 miles, rather fatigued, but much

pleased with this novel and interesting country, so seldom visited by

travellers. I alighted at the best hotel in the place, which was but very

indifferent, and the next day called upon General Church, the Governor

of the province, and was most kindly received by him, he insisting upon

my making his house my home. Here I again met with Lord Guildford, Lord

William Russell, and Chevalier Bronsted, with whom I had previously

made acquaintance at Rome. Lord Guildford was on his way to the Ionian

Islands on official business, and Sir Thomas Maitland, the Governor, had

ordered a vessel to be sent to Brindisi to convey his Lordship, who very

civilly offered me and our two mutual friends a passage. As the vessel

was not expected for several days, we in the meantime became the guests

of General Church, and were most hospitably entertained by him. General

Church was an extraordinary man. He was below the middle size, about the

age of five-and-forty, extremely well built, spare, sinewy, and active,

with a well-proportioned head, sharp piercing eyes, rather aquiline nose,

and a closely-compressed mouth, denoting great firmness and resolution.

He commanded a regiment of Albanians and Greeks, as an auxiliary corps

in the British employment, during the great war, and in that position

assisted the operations of the British cruisers on the coast of Italy;

and hence he became subsequently attached to the army of Lord William

Bentinck, after his conquest of Sicily. Church was a proficient in the

Greek, Italian, and French languages, and, having considerable military

talent, and being a great disciplinarian, soon brought the rough and

savage elements of which his corps was composed into tolerable order,

and rendered them of considerable service in the wild warfare in which

they were engaged. At the conclusion of the war he retired on half pay to

Naples, where, being well known to the Government, he was made Governor

of the province of Otranto, at that time overrun with brigands. Church

was appointed to the command with unlimited control, and by his vigorous

and energetic conduct soon spread terror and dismay amongst them; he was

here, there, and everywhere; when they least expected, he came upon them

suddenly, dispersed them, and destroyed the leaders without mercy. He

had many narrow escapes himself from sharing the same fate. Once it is

related that he and his aide-de-camp, Captain Kusini, entered unknowingly

a small town, of which one of the most able and daring brigand chiefs,

with a powerful band of followers, was in possession. Church, when he

found this, determined to make the best of it, being perfectly aware

of his danger. He entered the chief inn and sent for the landlord, who

recognized him at once, and asked him if he knew that the brigand chief

and his followers were actually in the town. “Yes,” replied Church, with

imperturbable coolness, “I am come expressly to meet him; tell him that

I want to see him immediately.” The brigand chief accordingly came,

astonished to see the General, whom he least expected; he began to be

alarmed, thinking he was surrounded. The General, addressing the brigand

by name, informed him that there was no chance of his escape, but that

if he and his followers would surrender, he would pardon them and get

them employed in the King’s army. The brigand chief and his men declined

this generous offer. Church then told him that he was sorry, for their

own sakes, as in future they could expect no mercy. The brigand and his

followers then withdrew, determined on their side to show no quarter to

the troops if ever they should get them within their power; but for the

moment, being ignorant of Church’s position, they were afraid to attack

him, little supposing that he was at that time theirs. This extraordinary

interview having terminated, Church felt that he had played the game

far enough, and the sooner he and his aide-de-camp made their escape

the better. The landlord, fortunately for them, kept the secret. The

General and his aide-de-camp escaped by the back of the house, climbed

over some fences, reached their horses, and then galloped off, never

pulling bridle until they had reached their own followers, who, when they

heard what had passed, were astonished at their escape, which was due

alone to the coolness and courage of the General. Scarcely had Church

and his aide-de-camp departed when the brigand and his followers learned

how completely they had been deceived, and at once set off in pursuit;

but they were soon obliged to retreat, being themselves pursued by a

superior force, from which they narrowly escaped capture; the band was

afterwards destroyed. This is but one out of the numerous instances

of Church’s extraordinary adventures. In a short time he extirpated

brigandism, the province regained its tranquillity, and the people

pursued their several employments in peace without fear of molestation,

blessing the General who had relieved them from their oppressors.

 

Being particularly desirous of seeing Brindisi, from my recollections

of Horace, I obtained an escort of two dragoons from General Church,

for, said he, “You may meet some unwelcome visitors on the way; but

if they see the uniform of my dragoons they will not trouble you with

their acquaintance.” Brindisi, which I need not now describe, struck me

as being an excellent port on the whole, and now that it is made the

terminus of the railway from Naples, which connects it with the entire

railway system of Europe, it will no doubt become a place of considerable

importance.

 

I embarked with Lord and Lady Guildford and others in a Government

vessel, and reached Corfu on the 27th February. The day was fine, and we

were much struck with the beauty of the surrounding sea and mountains,

together with the view of the magnificent inlet forming the harbour of

Corfu, comprising as it did the ancient and picturesque town on the bold

outline of St. Salvador and the rich undulating fields. As this was the

first time I had seen anything of Greece, I particularly remarked the

handsome appearance of the population and their picturesque costume.

 

There was nothing worthy of notice in the town except the old

fortifications, so that I determined to make my stay as short as

possible and take the first conveyance for Zante, and from thence to

the mainland of Greece. Corfu, having been under so many different

governments, partook in some measure of the character of all--Turkish,

Venetian, Russian, French, English, but the ruling feature was Greek

and Albanian. Our Government, urged on by that amiable, excellent, and

enthusiastic person, the late Lord Guildford, had determined to establish

an university at Zante, to revive classical learning, and Lord Guildford

was appointed Lord Rector. He was an excellent scholar and linguist,

and a most good-natured person; he was anything but a man of the world,

and little acquainted with the real character of the modern Greeks. Sir

Thomas Maitland, the Lord Chief Commissioner and Governor of the islands,

was a totally different character, and knew the Greeks well. He was a

stern, uncompromising soldier, with great talent, courage, and firmness,

joined to long experience in war, politics, and governing mankind

in every part of the world; he was not to be deceived by plausible

appearances; to use his own phrase, he would stand no humbug, and would

make his commands obeyed, although he was a strict administrator of

justice. He treated Lord Guildford’s plan with great ridicule. “They were

clever and learned enough, but they had already a great deal to unlearn;

the first thing was to make them honest and obedient to the law.” When

Sir Thomas became Lord Chief Commissioner of the Ionian Islands, the

population was in a most disorganized state; pillage, murder, and piracy,

were very common, and the malefactors were triumphant, and defied the

law. It therefore required a strong hand to keep them in order, and Sir

Thomas was just the man to do it--which he did. Under his strict but just

rule they soon became more manageable, as they found he would not be

trifled with.

 

On the day after my arrival I left my card at the palace, and received

an invitation to dine with him on the 2nd March. I had taken no letter

of introduction to him, although he knew my father; but I had previously

heard that he disliked nothing so much as letters of introduction,

and seldom paid them any respect, even when coming from the highest

quarters. I accordingly made my appearance at the palace punctually at

the time appointed, and soon after a brilliant assemblage was collected,

in full costume, all waiting for the Governor. He shortly after appeared

in full uniform, covered with orders. He was a rather fine-looking man,

about sixty-five, of the middle size, with a strong, square, well-built,

well-proportioned, figure. His countenance and speech betrayed his Scotch

origin; and his large bluish-grey eyes shaded by shaggy eyebrows, his

well developed nose, and compressed mouth, evinced a decided strength

of will. His speech was terse and blunt, but with a strange mixture of

kindness and severity, and altogether he was evidently made to command

and be respected. I kept in the background, but he came up to me, and in

his dry Scotch manner said, “I suppose you are Mr. Rennie; and pray, sir,