Autobiography of Sir John Rennie, F.R.S. 5
After the minutest search in every part no defect could be discovered;
the wedges between the centres and the under sides of the ribs were then
gradually slackened until the whole of the arches came to their full
bearing, and were removed entirely, leaving the arches perfectly free of
support. During the whole of these operations, from first to last, which
occupied about a week, not the slightest accident or fracture occurred;
the total subsidence of the main arch barely exceeded 2½ inches, whilst
the subsidence of the two side arches barely exceeded 2 inches, which had
been allowed for in the construction.
In order to ascertain the effects of expansion and contraction of
the arches by the variation of the temperature of the atmosphere, I
constructed steel, brass, and wooden gauges, accurately divided into
decimal parts of an inch, and erected them upon different parts of the
centres, where the effects were most likely to be apparent, and I kept
the register for several weeks, during the height of summer, autumn,
winter, and spring. I found that the variation in the rise and fall of
the crown of the arches, the abutments being fixed, was 1/10th of an inch
for every 10° of temperature, so that, taking the extremes of temperature
at London to be 10° below freezing point of Fahrenheit in winter, and
80° in summer; the utmost rise and fall of the arches may be taken at
7/10ths, or at most one inch; but as any variation in the temperature,
unless continued for some time, has no sensible effect upon such a large
mass of iron, so, in our variable climate, the rise and fall of the
crowns of the arches may be taken upon the average somewhat below the
amount above given.
After the arches had been brought to their bearing and had been relieved
from the centres, the superstructural framework was carried up and firmly
connected and bracketed together by diagonal ties and wedges; in doing
this the ends of the superstructural frames were too tightly wedged to
the masonry of the piers, without my knowledge, so that they would not
allow the main ribs of the arches to play freely, and some of the masonry
courses above the main ribs were slightly splintered and deranged; the
wedges were then slackened, and some of them removed entirely, and thus
the evil was immediately remedied; the whole structure has ever since
remained in a perfect state.
The bridges and approaches were finally completed and opened to the
public traffic in March, 1819, the ceremony being performed by Sir John
Jackson, the chairman, the directors, and a few friends.
In the month of August, 1818, having worked very hard, I may say almost
night and day, for some time, I was nearly worn out, and was permitted to
have a short holiday. I therefore determined to go to Belgium and visit
the celebrated field of Waterloo, which closed the long and eventful
revolutionary war, and attracted the admiration and interest of the whole
civilized world. I accordingly started for Dover, in company with my old
friend, the late Mr. Joseph Gwilt, architect, and crossed over to Calais.
On landing we repaired to Dessin’s hotel, at that time one of the best
in Europe, and rendered famous by Sterne, whose rooms are still shown as
one of the most interesting curiosities (to Englishmen at least) of the
place. Here we passed the remainder of the day very agreeably. Everything
was new to us--the people, their language, their manners, their mode of
living. We had been so long considering the French as our deadly foes
that we could hardly believe ourselves to be at peace with them, and to
be actually in France and so civilly treated by them. Then the living
was so good and cheap, compared to that of England; champagne, which
with us was considered the greatest luxury, and only within reach of the
highest and most wealthy, was here obtainable for four francs a bottle,
whilst in England it was twenty-four, and almost everything in the same
proportion. In the town of Calais there is nothing to see. The harbour is
but indifferent, and almost dry at low water, and is chiefly maintained
open by sluicing and dredging. On such a flat, sandy shore, with the
prevailing winds and currents always driving on and accumulating the
sands, it is very difficult to make and maintain a good harbour; still I
think that a great deal more might be effected by pursuing a different
course, and having a proper system of open piers and breakwaters on the
outside. After breakfast on the following day we started in a travelling
calèche, with two horses, for St. Omer, about 26 miles distant. On our
way we stopped to examine the celebrated quadrangular bridge, called
the Pont Sans Pareille, across the junction of the two canals of
Picardy. This is certainly a meritorious, well-executed work, but the
idea is by no means new, as the Gothic triangular bridge of Crowland,
in Lincolnshire, across the junction of the Welland, was executed many
centuries previous to the Pont Sans Pareille, and is still extant in a
perfect state. Near this bridge is the celebrated maiden fortress of
Ardres, which is said to have never been taken. Here also, according to
Froissart, was the Champs d’Or, or Field of the Cloth of Gold. Ardres is
a poor, miserable little fortress, surrounded with earthworks and ditch,
on a flat plain. In ancient times it might have been formidable, with
their means of attack, but now it would be utterly defenceless. From
Ardres we passed through St. Omer and Lille, and after visiting Tournay
and Ghent we proceeded to the capital of Belgium, where we took up our
quarters at the Hôtel de Flandre, in the highest and best part of the
city. We were particularly struck with the magnificent Hôtel de Ville
and its lofty spire; also the remarkable place or square in front of it,
which, looking to its picturesque mediæval buildings and the remarkable
historical events which have taken place there, renders it one of the
most interesting in Europe. The fine old Gothic cathedral of St. Gudule,
the museum, fine canals, &c., particularly attracted our attention.
On the next morning we started for the scene of the celebrated battle
of Waterloo, which had occurred about two months previously. In this
place, like every Englishman, I took the greatest possible interest,
and pictured to myself the whole of that terrific and stirring scene
as being enacted before me. Notwithstanding the lapse of time since
which that battle had taken place considerable traces of it were still
visible, particularly in the blood-stained walls and ruined, desolate,
and half-consumed buildings of the keys of the position, Hougumont and
La Haye Sainte, and the remnants of shakos, arms, and military clothing
which strewed the field on all sides, and the fresh-made graves,
where many thousand gallant fellows lay entombed. The whole field and
neighbouring villages were crowded with guides to explain the different
particulars of that memorable struggle, and to sell the numerous articles
which they had raked up from the field of battle; we bought some of these
as mementos, and wandered for hours over every part of this field of
desolation, until we fancied that we had mastered every detail of the
conflict, and were almost fit to take the command of an army ourselves.
We then returned to Brussels, highly gratified and instructed by the
excursion.
We left Brussels much pleased with that pretty little industrious
capital, and proceeded to Malines, where the fine old cathedral and
town rewarded us well during our short visit. From thence we journeyed
on to Antwerp, where we stopped at the Grand Labourer, a celebrated
old-fashioned hotel. This famous old city, the great emporium of the
Belgian trade, interested me much, with its magnificent cathedral and
other churches, its fine old Hôtel de Ville, and spacious quays and
docks; the Scheldt is here a fine river. There was a good museum of Dutch
and Flemish pictures, but the _chef-d’œuvres_ of Rubens and Vandyke
had not yet returned from Paris. I was much struck with the extent and
strength of the fortifications; also with the costume of the natives,
particularly that of the women, which still resembled a good deal that of
their former masters, the Spaniards. At the time of our visit everything
was in a depressed state. Its trade had not yet recovered from the
effects of the great war, and its then silent streets contrasted greatly
with their former activity. The Roman Catholic religious ceremonies were
conducted with great magnificence, and struck us simple Protestants,
who had never witnessed anything of the kind before, with considerable
astonishment.
We left Antwerp for Ghent, and took our departure for Bruges in one of
the trackschuyts or barges, by means of which the great bulk of the
goods and passenger traffic of the kingdom was carried on. These canals
are magnificent specimens of the kind, and, being upon a much greater
scale than our own, particularly struck me with admiration. The canal
was bounded on each side with spacious banks, and was of great width,
with a towing path and carriage way for general traffic. These banks were
bounded by rows of trees, which serve for shade; at the same time their
clippings and timber yield a considerable amount of profit.
We reached Bruges about noon, and had just time to examine the fine
cathedral and townhall, as well as the interesting town, its quaint old
buildings, quays, mercantile warehouses, all in the architecture of the
Middle Ages, during which Bruges attained its greatest prosperity. We
left this interesting town in the afternoon by another trackschuyt for
Ostend, about 12 miles distant, by a canal of the same dimensions as
the one above described. Most of these canals being connected with each
other, Brussels, Ghent, Malines, Louvain, and the other large towns,
possessed a complete network of water communication with the ports of
Antwerp and Ostend, and trade is carried on with the greatest facility.
We reached Ostend in the evening, and learned that a packet was about
to sail for Margate, of which we determined to avail ourselves. We had,
however, sufficient time to examine this indifferent port, the second
in the kingdom, which, in addition to a badly-contrived entrance by two
guide piers, has two small docks. It is a mere tidal harbour, with an
awkward bar at the entrance, and numerous shoals on the outside. The town
possesses nothing remarkable; it was then garrisoned by English troops,
and there was constant communication with England.
From this period I devoted my time almost exclusively to the Waterloo
and Southwark bridges, but particularly to the latter, which was almost
entirely under my direction, subject to the orders of my father. Besides
the above works, I was a good deal employed in the drawing office in
making drawings and estimates and calculations for a variety of new works
upon which my father was engaged. I also occasionally visited the rolling
and other machinery of the Royal Mint on Tower Hill, which my father at
that time was constructing for the Government, and during the evenings I
was employed in learning mathematics under Dr. Bradley and Dr. Firminger,
and the Italian, French, and German languages, so that my time from
morning to evening was fully employed. I must not omit to say that at
this time I attended the lectures of the celebrated Sir Humphry Davy,
the Professor of Chemistry at the Royal Institution, who at that day
astonished the world by his wonderful discoveries.
The first, second, and third arches of the Waterloo Bridge being
completed, Mr. Rennie determined to slacken the centres of the first
arch, which was on the Surrey shore, where the bridge commenced. This
was when the arches were entirely relieved from the centres, and the
total subsiding of this arch was 2½ inches, which is nearly half an
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