Autobiography of Sir John Rennie, F.R.S. 18

Autobiography of Sir John Rennie, F.R.S. 18

and soon got out of their reach. They did not follow us, either being

deterred by the stout resistance we had made, or being satisfied with

the booty which they had got. To have remained longer would have been

madness, for we should soon have been overpowered, and probably all

murdered, as there were at least thirty or forty of them, and we were

only five. We never pulled bridle until we had made about six or eight

miles; it was then broad daylight, and the sun was just rising above

the horizon; we continued, however, at a smart pace, passing through a

rich and partially cultivated valley, until, about seven o’clock in the

morning, we reached a small town, where the Aga, or Turkish Governor

of the district resided. Here we stopped at the caravanserai, tolerably

tired with our morning’s ride of about seventeen miles, and heartily

thankful for our providential escape. After a good wash, and breakfast,

I sent my janissary, a gallant fellow, to demand an audience of the

Aga, which he granted at midday. I went accordingly, showed my firman,

and then related my story by means of an interpreter. The Aga was a

fine-looking man, about forty, surrounded by his divan and a number of

well-armed Tartars and guards. He listened to my tale with the utmost

gravity and attention, and then burst out into a violent rage at the

indignity which I had suffered, and said that such an insult to an

English gentleman had never occurred before in his district, and he would

lose no time in bringing the offenders to justice. He was most particular

in inquiring as to the place where the offence had occurred, and the

number and description of my assailants, and then ordered a strong body

of well-armed and well-mounted Tartars to the place, with strict orders

to bring them to him immediately; in the meantime he ordered coffee and

pipes to be served, and offered me any money I required. He also asked

me where I was going. I told him that I was going southwards for two or

three days. He then said that upon my return he should be happy to see me

again, when he would have all the culprits in custody for me, and if I

could identify them he would have their heads taken off directly. I took

my leave, with many thanks for his courtesy; to which he replied, with

the greatest civility, that he was too happy to be of any service to an

Englishman. I left soon afterwards, and crossed another mountain ridge,

passing through a wild, desolate country, and descended into a fertile

valley, through which a small river wound its tortuous course. On the

way I examined the ruins of the ancient Priene, seated on a hill on the

right side of the valley. Here I saw considerable remains of some temples

of the Ionic order, besides the relics of numerous other buildings, which

it was very difficult to define. This city was surrounded by a strong

wall of massive masonry, considerable remains of which were visible.

We crossed the river by a ford, and took up our quarters for the night

amongst the ruins of Miletus. There were only a few scattered wretched

hovels in the vicinity, but none of them fit for our accommodation; I

therefore preferred the open air, and determined to bivouac amongst the

ruins; as I had already provided myself and my people with mattresses and

coverlets, and a good supply of provisions, I felt myself comfortable and

independent. I was roused about daybreak by something tugging hard at my

pillow; upon jumping up I descried a large wolf close by, with several

more near him. I immediately laid hold of a stout stick, and dealt him

a heavy blow on the head. This aroused Demetrius and the servants, who

fired several shots at the other wolves, and they all scampered off as

quickly as possible, so that we had no further molestation.

 

Early in the morning I set about examining the ruins, of which there

were but few; the principal was the theatre, but even of this, except

some massive walls, there was little remaining. I made a sketch, with

the Lake Bofi and the mountains behind it for a background, the whole

forming a very beautiful picture. We then went on to Yirondi, which we

reached about four o’clock in the afternoon, and got comfortable quarters

in the caravanserai. The next morning I proceeded to examine the ruins

of the celebrated Temple of Apollo Didymæus. This is one of the largest

and most magnificent specimens of the Ionic order, and well worthy of

the attention of every traveller who takes an interest in architecture.

I was much pleased with and instructed by it. Of the front columns

several were still standing, and numerous fragmentary blocks of pillars,

entablature, pediment, and substructure lay scattered all around, the

whole being of the most elaborate workmanship. When entire it must have

been a very magnificent work of art, as the remains evidently show.

 

After finishing my examination, I determined to return to Smyrna as

quickly as possible, having much to do before my tour was completed. I

accordingly started soon after midday, although the weather was very hot,

and the next day I sent my janissary to request an audience of the Aga,

which he granted me at midday. He then said that he had captured all the

Kurds, and ordered them to be brought from the prison. Accordingly the

whole of them, amounting to about thirty in number, were produced, and

marched before me slowly, when the Aga asked me if I could recognize

any of them, in which case he would take care that justice should be

administered. I was pretty well aware what this justice would be, namely,

that their heads would be taken off if I recognized them. I certainly

remembered several of their faces, but having been robbed only of a

few articles, worth about eighty pounds, I did not consider that the

punishment of death could be put in comparison with my loss, although it

is true they would have murdered me if they could. I therefore resolved

to save them, as they had already suffered sufficiently by being confined

in a miserable dungeon with scarcely any food for four days. They were

accordingly discharged, having been, as I understood, pretty well

punished, in addition to their imprisonment, by heavy fines, and perhaps

sundry stripes into the bargain, so that it was not likely that they

would attack an Englishman again. The Tartars had recovered several of my

lost things; for this I made them a handsome acknowledgment, with which

they were much pleased, and gave me many thanks. I also rendered my best

thanks to the Aga, and we parted upon the most amicable terms.

 

Having returned to Smyrna, I there met my friend Scott, whom I had

previously known at Athens, and we resolved to proceed at once to

Constantinople by land. The first night we reached the modern Magnesia,

a large town situated on a plain, surrounded by rude crenellated walls,

inhabited chiefly by a Turkish population, and containing nothing worthy

of remark. The following morning we proceeded through an open undulating

country, very fertile, but, as usual, only partially cultivated. Here

and there were extensive plains, some only tenanted by shepherds

tending their large flocks of goats, cattle, and sheep, others growing

cotton, maize, corn, beans, and tobacco, occasionally interspersed with

vineyards; the inhabitants looked poor and miserable, and the villages

and towns wore the same appearance.

 

After a long, hard day’s ride of eighteen hours, we came in sight of

Broussa, the ancient capital of the Turks. The surrounding country was

rich and beautiful, and covered with luxurious gardens, intermixed with

comfortable villas and houses; the city, with its numerous mosques and

towering minarets, lay in the foreground; whilst the magnificent Mount

Olympus, above 7000 feet high, rearing his head above the clouds, formed

a noble background. When within a mile of the city I felt very tired and

thirsty. Just then a countryman approached, and offered us some bunches

of magnificent grapes, which I accepted with much gratification, and

gave him a handsome present. I devoured them voraciously. We reached the

caravanserai at sunset, and as there were a great number of travellers,

we got but poor accommodation. I awoke about three in the morning with

a violent diarrhœa, which continually increased, until I became so

exhausted that I could scarcely move. It turned out to be dysentery, and

my friends considered that it must end fatally. Before leaving England

I had consulted my friend, the late distinguished Dr. James Johnson, as

to what was to be done under similar circumstances, and he recommended

large doses of calomel as the only and best means of cure. I had provided

myself with this, and took it accordingly, with the assistance of which

I rallied considerably, and we then determined to proceed at once to

Mondania, on the shores of the Sea of Marmora, where we should find much

better accommodation. Off, therefore, we went, without being able to see

anything further of the beauties of Broussa. I was much fatigued with

the journey, and immediately after our arrival took to my bed. Here the

dysentery came on more violently than ever. I again had recourse to a

large dose of calomel, and ordered Demetrius to get some chicken broth

as soon as possible. This the good fellow got ready without delay. I

swallowed as much as I could, and then fell back on my mattress perfectly

exhausted. I was delirious for four or five hours; but at the end of

that time I broke out into a violent perspiration; the calomel had done

its work effectually, and I became conscious and tranquil, although very

weak. The disease, however, had been arrested, and I recovered rapidly.

 

I reached Constantinople at last by sea, and after a day or two of repose

I regained my strength and sallied forth with a janissary to examine

the Moslem capital. I first paid a visit to our ambassador, Mr. Frere.

He received me most kindly, and asked me to dinner the next day. The

entertainment was sumptuous, and I spent a delightful evening. I was

afterwards frequently invited to this most hospitable house, and always

received the same kind attention, ever returning from it both amused and

instructed. Mr. Frere was a very accomplished, unassuming gentleman,

ever ready to protect his countrymen; he discharged his onerous duties

in such a manner as to gain the respect of the Turks (which was very

difficult in those days), as well as that of the _corps diplomatique_

and foreigners of every nation, and the respect and affection of his own

countrymen. I also frequently visited the hospitable house of our worthy

and most excellent Consul, General Cartwright. He was a man above the

common order, and no one was better calculated to deal with the Turks;

frank, open, courageous, honest, and decided, understanding thoroughly

the people he had to deal with, and never flinching from his duties,

firmly upholding his countrymen when right, but no less inflexible in

refusing his support when wrong. He was hospitable and sociable to a

degree, yet withal never neglected the least of his duties, and was

universally respected and beloved.

 

Constantinople has been often described, and is now so well known that

I need not weary my reader with any detailed description. But as I was

there at a time when the reforms of the Sultan Mahmoud had not long

commenced; when the janissaries were still in existence; when the old

Turkish bigotry, insolence, and fanaticism was at its height; when the

fierce vigour which had formerly carried out its conquests was nearly

extinct, and European ideas and civilization had not yet dawned; when, in

short, the Government was most corrupt, and the whole Turkish population

sunk in indolence and sensuality, a few rough notes of what I then saw

may perhaps not be unacceptable.

 

Amongst the sights during my short stay was the marriage of one of the

Sultan’s daughters, which was made the occasion of great fêtes, and

amongst others a grand tournament or display of djerid. This consisted

of a number of horsemen extremely well mounted, each armed with a short

blunted dart, which they hurled at one another, and those who received

the greatest number of hits were declared to be losers The game was very

exciting, and the display of horsemanship and the activity and skill of